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liipplifM 



The 

Farmers' Guide Book 

A Ready Reference Book of Useful Facts 
and Rules for American Farming 



By 

C. S. PALMER, B. L. 

Teacher and Practical Farmer 



PRICE, ONE DOLLAR 



THE HAMMOND PRESS 

BUFFALO, NEW YORK 



550\ 

T2^ 



COPYRIGHTED 1915 

By 

THE HAMMOND PRESS 

BUFFALO. N. Y. 



FEB 25 1916 

©CLA420908 



S: PREFACE 

1^ 

;^ In compiling THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK the writer has 

o had in mind the demands of many for a more condensed and cou- 

S venient source of information than is afforded by the current agri- 

cultural works. The average farmer has little time and less inclina- 
tion to read three or four pages for a fact that might better have 
been expressed in a single sentence. He wants his information boiled 
down, and free from technicalities or literary verboseness. 

The book is designed, primarily, for two classes: 1. The begin- 
ners who are anxious to start right ; 2. The average farmer who, not 
having had the advantages of an agricultural college training, wishes 
to avail himself of at least some of the information which those in- 
stitutions teach. 

The method of expression used by the writer has enabled him to 
convey, in one small book, information that would, ordinarily, occupy 
several volumes. The live topics of modern farming, such as "Fer- 
tilizers," ''Lime," "Alfalfa," "The Orchard," "Rotation of Crops," 
"Cement." etc., have been fully and carefully treated. These chap- 
ters will not only be of inestimable value to the farmer, but they will 
be of great assistance to all teachers and students of agriculture. 

The directory of firms, which is an important feature of the 
book, will be enlarged as later editions are published; ;ind all firms 
whose dealings have been found questionable will be dropped. It is 
the purpose to make the list not only complete, but reliable. In- 
tegrity and square dealing are all that is required for a listing. Un- 
reliable concerns will not, knowingly, be ineluded for any considera- 
tion. 

The writer hereby acknowledges his indebtedness to the many 
agricultural colleges and experiment stations who have so freely ans- 
wered his questions; to the agricultural press, especially to The Rural 
New Yorker, from whose columns he has freely drawn ; to Doctor L. S. 
Backus, of the State University of Missouri, who contributed most 
of the chapter on "Cow Troubles and Their Remedies;" to F. E. 
Beatty, of the firm of Kellogg & Co., strawberry growers, of Three 
Rivers, Michigan, for the chapter on strawberries; and to the A. I. 
Root Company, of Medina, Ohio, for the chapter on "Bees and Bee- 
keeping. ' ' 

Criticisms and suggestions for future editions will i)e gratefully 
received. 

C. S. PALMER. 



"The nation is not fed by peace, or 
destroyed by war; these conditions only 
exercise a temporary influence on it. It 
is the soil, on which man builds his home, 
that is instrumental in holding humane 
society together, or dispersing it, and in 
causing nations and empires to disap- 
pear, or to become powerful." — Liehig. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF FARM LIFE. 

What are some of the advantages of farm life? 

1. INDEPENDENCE. — The owner of a well stocked farm may 
well revel in his freedom from the cares and anxieties of the ordinary- 
city man. He is his own boss and can take a day or a week off, at 
any time, without fear of losing his job. He has no rent to pay, taxes 
are low and the bill collector is only an occasional factor in his do- 
main. Speaking on this subject, W. J. Spellman, of the U. S. De- 
partment of Agriculture, says : 

"In the first place, the farmer, if he is at all successful, has no 
fear of being displaced. He commands his own time and leads an 
independent life. In the second place, if he is wise, he may himself 
produce nearly all the food necessary for his family. He may maintain 
a good garden, an orchard, a flock of poultry, keep a few cows and 
pigs, and grow most of his own bread. If the wife and daughters 
know how to prepare food in an appetizing manner and understand 
how to be frugal, the actual money expense for the farm living may 
be made very small, while at the same time the standard of living, 
from the standpoint of food, may be much higher than is possible 
even with wealthy people in the city." 

2. BETTER HEALTH. — Many a man, a physical wreck from 
too close application to work in an office or shop, has been restored to 
health and happiness by an active, out-door life on a farm. The pure 
water, fresh air and healthful surroundings are conducive to physical 
vigor, mental equipoise and a long life. 

3. A GOOD PLACE TO BRING UP CHILDREN.— It has 
long been known that many, if not a majority, of our ablest and 
staunchest men, both in business and professional life, are from the 
ranks of those whose early years were spent upon the farm. Nature 
is an ideal teacher. If there are "books in the running brook," there 
are still more in the meadow and the woods, and among the buds, 
the blossoms and the fruit. 

There are fewer temptations in the country than in the city. 
There vice does not beckon on every hand, and one need not be ever 
on the alert for the preservation of life or liml). Nor are broadening 
and uplifting influences wanting. To be among domestic animals 
and to help care for their young, to possess and associate with pets 
are some of the factors which tend to develop the generous and hu- 
mane instincts of the child. 

What are the chief disadvantages of farm life? 

1. LACK OF A STEADY INCOME.— While, no doubt, the 
city-bred man in the country will miss the usual pay envelope every 
Saturday night, it should be borne in mind that he already has his 
pay in the growing crops and stock that will later be ready for the 



8 TEE F ARM E B S' GUIDE BOOK 

market. The writer has in mind a man who, being caught in the 
* ' back to the land ' ' movement, purchased a farm and, for three years, 
worked it with the same energy and intelligence that he had displayed 
in the city office. But he missed the fixed and steady income, often 
being almost entirely without money ; so, grasping an opportunity, he 
sold his farm at cost and advertised the personal property for sale at 
auction. On figuring up after the sale, he was surprised to find that 
he had a little more than $3,000, cash profit, over and above what his 
equipment had cost. This set him to thinking; and having decided 
that he knew of no easier or quicker method to accumulate $3,000 in 
so short a time, he cancelled his engagement in the city and imme- 
diately purchased another farm. 

2. LACK OF CONVENIENCES.— This feature of country life 
has been and, to some extent, is now one of the serious objections to 
farming. The city wife, accustomed to her convenient bathroom, to 
the use of gas and electricity, her refrigerator and power washer, 
would find it hard to be reconciled to the conditions found on many 
farms. But a new order of things is on its way. The telephone and 
rural delivery have come, state roads are being made and the auto- 
mobiles are annihilating distances. In this connection we quote from 
the Long Island Agronomist, the following: 

"At the present day the home life in the country is growing 
easier and pleasanter for the women folk ; while in the city it is grow- 
ing bewilderingly complex, more crowded and more difficult to handle. 
In the country the door-yard is being spruced up. Rural delivery of 
mail has come. Carrying water in a pail is remarkable for its rarity; 
the hard-working pump has well nigh disappeared and water flows 
in the country house by gravity. Reliance on the kitchen wood-stove 
for heat as well as cooking is rapidly becoming a thing of the past. 
Hot air, steam and even hot water, heat many a farm-house. Pianos 
and pianolas have replaced the doleful melodeon, and the dining 
table of the country girl groans with good things; while on the city 
girl's table it's a miracle that the food does not do the groaning! 
Acetylene or gasoline gas has taken the place of oil lamps ; and. often, 
the farm stream furnishes power for electric lights and other pur- 
poses." 

Other disadvantages of farm life, depending more or less on lo- 
cation and local conditions, are : distance from physicians, schools and 
churches; uncongenial neighbors, tramps, lack of fire and police pro- 
tection, etc. The back-to-the-lander should weigh well all these 
things. By thorough and careful investigation he can determine be- 
forehand just about what the conditions will be; then his own judg- 
ment must decide whether it is best to make the change. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



BUYING A FARM 

Hoiv may I find a farm for sale'^ 

Watch the advertisements in the daily and farm papers, write to 
some of the dealers listed in this book, or advertise in some paper that 
covers the section in which you wish to locate. An advertisement of 
ten or fifteen words will bring you many replies. 

How large a farm shall I buyf 

This depends upon the purpose for which the farm is to be used 
If for a truck farm, twenty acres will be large enough for a good start. 
If for a dairy farm, from one hundred fifty acres up will be needed. 
Gauge the size of the farm by your capital and what you wish to do. 

75 it better to buy a run down farm at a low price and try to bring 
it up, or get one in a high state of cultivation and pay more? 
This depends upon the farmers resources, not only in money, but 
in knowledge and ability. If a farmer has capital enough to live on 
for a couple of years without much income and will follow the rules 
laid down in this book, he may profitably start with a run down farm, 
provided he can get it at a correspondingly low price. 

What cautions sJiould be observed in buying a farm? 

1. Always see a farm before you buy it. Several examinations 
during the summer, so that the land may be seen in different conditions 
of drouth and excessive moisture, may be profitably made. The 
amount of tillable land in the farm should be determined by actual 
measurement. Do not accept the estimates of the owner. Attention 
should be paid as to whether this land is stony, so that plowing is 
made difficult, whether it is hilly, so that many kinds of farm 
machinery cannot l)e used to advantage, whether the fields are con- 
venient to the barn or are so broken up by ditches that it is impossible 
to work them to advantage. 

2. If it is thought advisable to purchase, employ a reliable 
attorney to make the transaction for you, determining in advance the 
amount of his charges, which, in any case, should not exceed twenty- 
five dollars. He should see that the seller furnishes an abstract, 
showing a clear title, and a full warranty deed; also that there are 
no legal claims against the personal property. The deed should be 
recorded as soon as it is executed. 

3. Do not purchase on terms that you can not meet, should your 
first year's crop prove a failure. Many a would-be-farmer has gone to 
the wall because his first crops were less profitable than he had ex- 
pected and his expenses were correspondingly more. Drouths, crop 
failure and poor markets may always be expected and should ])e pro- 
vided for. 



30 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

4. If a man has only a small capital, say $500 or $1,000, he may 
start by renting a small farm near the city. With a little hired help 
he can work such a place and still retain his city job until he feels 
justified in giving the farm his entire attention. With poultry and 
vegetables, and by keeping a cow and a pig or two, many who have 
started in this way have been very successful. 

Hoiv may the desirability of a farm he determined? 

Have definitely in mind the purposes for which you wish to pur- 
chase the farm ; then study its adaptability to these purposes, giving 
special attention to the following particulars : 

1. Soil. Is it clay, sand, or gravel? Clay is good grass land 
and suitable for general farm crops. It is not, however, suitable for 
early cultivated crops, as it is too cold, too wet and too hard. It is 
also, more difScult and unsatisfactory to work than is any other soil, 
requiring just the proper treatment in order to avoid baking and hard 
lumps. The depth of the soil should be carefully determined. Many 
crops, of which alfalfa is one, cannot be raised profitably on shallow 
soil. If possible, have the farm bureau agent of that county go over 
the farm with you and advise you. He is paid by the county and will 
do this with no expense to you. 

2. Draitiage. Many farms are run at a loss because the soil is 
so wet in the spring that crops cannot be gotten in early enough for a 
profitable market. Practically all farm land could be improved by 
drainage and many farms must be drained to be made to pay. Go 
over the farm in a wet season and determine exactly its condition in 
this important particular. 

3. Water. If a dairy farm is wanted, make sure that there is 
plenty of living water, convenient for both summer and winter. Dairy- 
ing cannot be profitably carried on without this. Let the other man 
put down the expensive wells and install a pumping plant. You can 
find a farm that does not need them. 

4. Pasture. If for dairying, look well to the pasture and the 
fences around it. Cows bought here and there of farmers are usually 
unruly and difficult to keep within bounds. As pastures usually run 
in New York State, about five acres are required to pasture one cow 
during the summer. Barbed wire, which makes the most popular and 
cheapest fence, costs about $1.75 per spool of eighty rods. Three 
strands are required for a good fence. The posts, which should be 
placed not farther than one rod apart, will cost from six to ten cents 
each. 

5. Buiklings. Are the buildings ample and suitable for your pur- 
poses, or must you at once repair, remodel or build new ? Many farm 
buildings have excellent frames above ground, but sills so rotten and 
walls so poor that they have to be repaired or the buildings will col- 
lapse. See that the floors are sound and whether, or not, the roofs 
need shingling. Farmers often wish to sell because their buildings 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 11 



are just about to tumble down, and they are not able to repair them. 
Make careful study as to the arrangement and convenience of the 
buildings. The writer has now in mind a farm on which the build- 
ings are so unhandy that it takes three men two hours to do chores 
that one man, with a more convenient arrangement, could easily do in 
half an hour. See the buildings, if possible, in wet weather. Is the 
drainage away, or is the barnyard a disagreeable mud hole? 

6. Well and Cellar. Determine if there is good water in the well 
and if it ever goes dry. Has it ever been cleaned ? Is the cellar under 
the house warm enough to protect vegetables from freezing in the 
winter ? Are the cellar drains open ? Do not let yourself be surprised 
into finding that you must immediately spend a hundred dollars, or 
more, on the cellar in order that it may be serviceable. 

7. Market and Roads. Find where your markets are and go 
over the roads to them. If there are long, steep hills to climb, better 
try some other locality. Drawing heavy loads up steep hills is costly 
and dangerous, whether with horses or with trucks. 

8. Timber. See if there is enough wood on the farm for fuel. 
A quantity of good, first-growth timber would be a valuable asset, as 
it would furnish lumber for building and repairs. Do not, however, 
be led to believe that "there is enough timber on the place to pay for 
it." Getting out and marketing lumber is a difficult and costly task 
and the returns are rarely what are expected. Unless there is a good 
local market, the owner cannot usually dispose of timber to any great 
advantage. 

If I have only a part of the price and the owyier, wants all cash, where 

can I horroiv the remainder? 

Writing on this subject in the Rural New-Yorker, E. S. Brigham 
says: 

' ' The prospective purchaser will do well to visit the local banker," 
because bankers usually have a very fair and conservative idea of the 
value of farm property in the territory which they serve. Bankers 
are also interested in having the farms in their community fall into 
the hands of good respectable people who will make the best possible 
use of the land. If the purchaser needs to borrow money he will 
probably find it necessary to appeal to the local banker for a loan. 
The amount which a banker can loan on a farm is usually limited by 
the laws of the State. Bankers usually consider a farm mortgage as 
a very desirable security and a person who has a good moral character, 
a reputation for meeting his bills promptly and who can show a good 
purpose for using the money would probably have no trouble in 
borrowing 60% of the value of the farm. The interest may vary in 
different States under different conditions, but will probably be 6%. 
Payments should be made promptly, because only in this way can a 
farmer or any other person gain a reputation which will enable him to 
secure credit necessary for doing business. A poor man of whom it 



12 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

can be said 'his word is as good as his bond' will be able to do 
business easily where a rich man of whom the opposite is tnie will be 
hampered. ' ' 

What would he the equipment for a moderate-sized farm? 

10 Cows $400 

One thoroughbred bull 100 

Two horses 350 

Heavy harness 40 

Light harness (single ) 20 

Heavy wagon 70 

Light wagon 35 

Plow 11 

Mower 43 

Cultivator 7 

Grain drill 85 

Reaper and binder 125 

Spring harrow 15 

Disk 23 

Hay rake 20 

Roller 20 

Manure spreader 100 

Weeder 8 

Heavy bob sleds 25 

Single buggy 35 

Cutter 25 

Milk cans and small tools 25 

Twenty hens 16 

Horse sprayer 60 

Four pigs 20 

How may the farmer get an outfit at a small price f 

By buying at auctions. Although stock usually sells at auctions 
at the top figures, it has been the writer's experience that farming 
tools are usually struck off at a low price. In buying second-hand 
tools, however, always examine them first and make sure tliat they are 
not worn out and useless. 

DON'TS. 

Don't be in a hurry to buy. 

Don't expect to get rich in one year, or two. 

Don't forget that it takes a great deal of hard work to run a 
farm ; that help is scarce and wages are high. 

Don't think that the prices you are paying for vegetables at the 
corner grocery are what the farmer is receiving. 

Don't get frightened if the owner of the farm tells you that 
others are after it and he must know your decision in a few days. He 
may have been saying this to prospective purchasers for the past ten 
vears. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 13 

Don't take for granted everything that the neighbors may say. 
Talk with them, but remember they may have an ax to grind. Even 
the man on the farm may have been promised a good bonus, if the 
farm is sold while he is there. 

Don't buy in a neighborhood where your family would be un- 
happy. 

Don 't think that some new development, such as a railroad, oil or 
gas will soon greatly enhance the value of the farm. If the owner be- 
lieved this he would not want to sell. 

Don't pay as much for a farm six miles from a railroad as you 
would for one only a mile away. 

Don't run any risk of an imperfect title. 

Don't let the real estate agent hurry you. 

Don't fail to examine the inside of the house thoroughly; it may 

be full of vermin. 

Don't fail to talk with the local banker. 

Don't take too much risk. 



14 TH^ F ARM E BS' GUIDE BOOK 



DRAINAGE. 

Is the subject of drainage important to the average farmer? 

There is no more important subject for the farmer to consider. 
It is safe to say that three-fourths of all unprofitable farming is due to 
lack of drainage. This subject is only just beginning to receive the 
attention which its importance demands. Farmers are beginning to 
realize that, no matter what the expense, their land must be properly 
drained in order to yield satisfactory profits. 

Mention some of the benefits resulting from drainage? 

1. By removing the water it gives a greater depth for plants to 
feed. 

2. It makes the soil mellower and tends to prevent baking and 
cracks. 

3. Drainage helps to ventilate the soil. Air is absolutely neces- 
sary for roots and useful bacteria, but it cannot penetrate into soil 
that is full of water. 

4. Contrary to general belief, drainage increases the amount of 
moisture available for crops. This is because the soil particles in 
drained land are finer; thus increasing capillary attraction. 

5. Drainage makes the soil warmer. A test in the peat bogs of 
Lancashire, England, showed that at depth of 7 inches, the drained 
soil was 15° warmer than the undrained. 

6. Drainage lessens erosion and heaving. 

7. Drainage increases the available amount of plant food and 
promotes the growth of useful bacteria. 

8. Drainage helps to keep the land from getting sour. 

9. Drained soils yield much larger crops than undrained soils. 

What lands are most in need of drainage? 

1. Large, flat areas having clay subsoil. 

2. Bogs and swamps where water stands most of the summer. 

3. Lands that are too wet because of the overflow of streams. 

4. Depressions in hillsides tliat hold water coming from above. 

5. All land that is intermittently wet for two or three days at a 
time. 

Mention some of the visible signs of too wet land. 

1. Fruit trees missing, singly or in blocks. 

2. Corn weak and patchy. 

3. Heaving out of crops during the winter. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 15 

4. Grass supplanted by plantain in large, blotchy areas. 

5. Hard soil and unsatisfactory crops. 

What methods of drainage are used? 

1. Boring holes, sinking wells, or blasting holes by the use of 
dynamite. These methods are applicable to fields where an impervious 
layer of hard clay, shale or rock, separates the top soil from a deep, 
porous layer beneath. 

2. Surface ditches. This is the cheapest method. Ditches are 
effective, however, only to their own depth. They are unsightly and 
interfere with the general farm work. 

3. Tile drainage. This is the modern and most effective method. 
A farm drained by this method is often increased in value more than 
two hundred per cent. Well drained farms can be worked earlier in 
the spring and crops are better and surer. 

What rules should he observed in tile draining? ■ 

1. Do the work well, or not at all. 

2. The main drain should occupy the lowest portion of the field. 
It should be larger than the lateral drains, if much water is to be 
carried away. 

3. A fall of two feet in one thousand will be sufficient, if the tile 
is properly laid. 

4. The bottoms of the ditches should be even and the tile laid 
very carefully with ends close together. Remember that one piece im- 
properly laid may block up the entire line. 

5. Care should be exercised not to displace the tile when covering. 

6. The outlet of the main should be looked after with some care, 
that the water from it will not do damage in washing and that animals 
can not crawl into it. An ounce of prevention in this last particular 
will be worth many pounds of cure. 

How deep should tile he laddf 

"The depth of drains will range from about twenty inches to three 
and a half or four feet. The commonest depth is two to three feet. 
In sandy land the drains may be placed deeper than in clay land. Up 
to a depth of four feet an increase in the depth of the drain will per- 
mit an increase in the interval between drains of about two rods for 
each foot in depth. In clay land an increase in the depth of laying the 
tile will usually not permit an increase in the interval between the 
drains." — Cornell Leaflet. 

How may ditches for tile draining he dugf 

They may be dug with a pick and shovel ; but by far the best and 
cheapest way is by the special machines that are made for this purpose. 
The cost of tile draining, when machines are used, will average not far 
from $30 per acre. 



16 TEE F ARM E RS' GUIDE BOOK 

How far opart should lines of tile he placed? 

The distance apart and arrangement of the lines will, of course, 
depend upon the structure of the soil and the slope of the land. If in 
hard clay, they should be as close as four or five rods; while in very 
porous soil, seventy feet may be near enough. 

How does the water get into the tile? 

The water enters the tile through the joints from the bottom. 
What kind of tile should be used? 

Use the hard-burned 3, 4, or 5-inch tile, the size depending upon 
the amount of water to be removed. 

DEAINAGE DON'TS. 

Don't try to drain without some fall. 

Don 't use too small tile. 

Don't join laterals to the main at right angles. 

Don't forget that the more fall, the more water will be removed. 

Don't forget that drainage does not remove any water that would 
be a benefit, if it remained. 

Don't spoil your drain by knocking the tile apart when you cover 
them. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 17 



FERTILIZERS. 

What is a fertilizer? 

A fertilizer is anything that supplies plant food. 

How are fertilizers classified f 

Into natural fertilizers and artificial fertilizers. 

What are natural fertilizers ? 

Natural fertilizers are those that have been derived from natural 
sources with no special treatment; as, stable and barnyard manure, 
ashes, leaves, etc. 

What are artificial fertilizers f 

Artificial fertilizers are those that have been prepared with a view 
of supplying some definite elements to the soil. 

What necessary plant foods are supplied by artificial fertilizers? 
Nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. 

How may the amounts of avaHahle nitrogen, phosphorus and potash 

in a commercial fertilizer he determined? 

The amounts are always stated on the labels on the bags. 

Thus, "Available Nitrogen 2-5%" means 2% of nitrogen, and 
nothing more. 

What is meant by a "2-7-12 fertilizer?" 

One containing 2% of nitrogen, 7% of phosphoric acid and 12% 
of potash. 

How may users of fertilizers in large quantities save on the cost? 
By buying the ingredients and doing the mixing themselves. 

Are home-mixed fertilizers as good as those purchased from the fac- 
tories? 
They are, notwithstanding reports to the contrary. 

What substances are used to furnish the nitrogen in artificial ferti- 
lizers? 

Nitrate of soda, ammonium sulfate, cottonseed meal, dried blood, 
dried fish, etc. 

What is nitrate of soda? 

Nitrate of soda is a chemical compound, found in great quantities 
in the dry, mountainous regions of Chili, and for this reason it is often 
called "Chili saltpeter." As purified for market, it contains about 
16% nitrogen and costs about $50 per ton. It is easily soluble and 
becomes at once available for plant use. On sandy, porous land it is 
easily lost by bleaching. It is the only artificial fertilizer that should 
be used as a top dressing. 



18 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

What is ammonium sulfate f 

Ammonium sulfate is a by-product of the manufacture of illumin- 
ating gas, coke and bone-black. It contains about 20% of nitrogen, 
but has a tendency to make the land sour and should always be used 
in connection with lime. 

On what part of the plant does nitrogen have its principal effect? 

On the leaves and stalks. Nitrogen gives the rich green color to 
foliage. Used in excess, it causes a too rank growth. 

What is the source of the phosphorus of fertilizers? 
Bones, phosphate rock and Thomas slag. 

What is phosphate rockf 

Phosphate rock, thought to be of marine animal origin, is found 
in many parts of the South, notably in South Carolina, Florida and 
Tennessee. The rock is dug out, ground very fine and sold under the 
name of "floats." In this form it is ready to apply without further 
treatment, but is only slowly available. When the ground rock is 
treated with sulphuric acid, it becomes much more quickly available as 
plant food. In this condition it is known as acid phosphate, or super- 
phosphate, and may contain from 14% to 20% of phosphoric acid. 

What substances are used to furyiish the potash for fertilizers? 

Muriate of potash, sulfate of potash and kainit. The muriate 
contains 50% and the sulfate 48% of actual potash. 

What is kainit? 

Kainit is one of the potash salts from the great potash mines of 
Germany. It contains from 12% to 13% potash, but it is not so profit- 
able to buy as the muriate or sulfate. It is said to destroy the white 
lice that prey upon the roots of some plants. 

What is considered the cheapest potash fertilizer? 

Muriate of potash. It is the best for most crops, although the 
sulfate gives the best results on tobacco. 

What materials would, he needed to equal ten tons of 2-8-10 fertilizer? 



20,000+. 02= 400; 400 



20,000+. 10=2000; 2000 



.16 =2500 pounds of sodium nitrate ; 



20,000+.08=1600; 1600^.14=11429 pounds of acid phosphate; 



.50= 4000 pounds of muriate of potash. 



How may one determine the most profitable fertilizer to buy? 

This can only be answered by actual test. That which proved 
profitable for your neighbor, two miles away, may not be suitable for 
you. The experience of others may, however, have some value, hence 
we append the following results obtained from tests made by the In- 
diana station : 

"On clay and loam soils, the complete fertlizer made the greatest 
increase in yield. But a smaller yield with potash and phosphoric acid 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 19 

and no nitrogen paid best. In other words, for corn, the nitrogen cost 
more than it was worth. The best paying corn fertilizer was phos- 
phorus with potash second. 

"Applied to wheat, the complete fertilizer not only made the best 
increase, but paid best. Each element paid, but, as in corn, nitrogen 
gave least profit, potash next, and phosphoric acid stood at the head 
of the class. It paid better to use two hundred pounds of complete 
fertilizer on wheat than one hundred pounds. Fertilizers paid better 
on wheat than on corn. The results on oats were very much like those 
on wheat in bushels of increase, but not necessarily in profit. 

"On timothy, the complete fertilizer gave better results than ni- 
trate of soda alone, especially the second year. 

"Heavy purchases of nitrogen for corn and wheat did not seem to 
pay. Heavy applications of fertilizers seemed to last, like manure, 
and raw rock phosphate did not seem to do much good until the second 
year. In nearly all these experiments, phosphorus seemed to pay the 
best." 

Hoiv much fertilizer should he used? 

This, of course, depends upon the conditions. If plenty of humus 
is present, 200 to 600 of complete fertilizer should be sufficient. If 
humus is not supplied, the amount of commercial fertilizers will have 
to be increased each year to get the same results. 

What costly mistake in buying fertilizers do farmers often make? 

Farmers often pay $35 or more per ton for a fertilizer rich in ni- 
trogen when all that is needed is phosphorus or lime. Acid phosphate, 
containing 18% phosphorus, can be purchased for about .$14.00 per 
ton. To supply the other elements when they are not needed would 
mean a loss of $21.00 per ton. 

How may a farmer determine what fertilizers his land needs f 

By laying out different plots, about a rod square, and testing for 
himself. Supply nitrogen to one, phosphorus to another, potash to 
another, lime to another, also make different combinations. Leave a 
block with no fertilizer to act as a check. Tlie next season the farmer 
may profit by his results. 

Will a chemical analysis sJiow what plant foods are lacking? 

It will not. To be available as plant food the substances must be 
in a soluble condition. The soil may contain many thousand pounds 
to the acre of potash or phosphorus locked up in rocks, yet these very 
elements may have to be supplied to get good crops. The chemist can 
not tell, by his analysis, whether the food elements are available for 
plants, or not. Do not bother your experiment station, about soil 
analyses. 



20 THE F ARM E RS' GVIDE BOOK 

What may he said in general, of the use of commercial fertilizers hy 

farmers? 

In general, it may be said that farmers use too much artificial 
fertilizers. More attention should be given to drainage, tillage and 
the turning under of green crops. The supply of humus in the soil 
should be kept up in order to get the most profit from the land. Once 
get into the habit of turning under a few green crops each year, such 
as clover, rye, or buckwheat, and the need for artificial fertilizers will 
soon be done away with. 

Mention some of the crops and the fertilizers usually needed for each. 

Alfalfa, lime ; 

Grass crops, nitrogenous fertilizers; 

Corn, phosphorus ; 

Potatoes and turnips, potash. 

In general, it may be said that well rotted stable manure, which 
contains all the plant foods that are needed, is the best fertilizer that 
can be applied. 

What soil always needs potash in order to yield crops? 

Muck soil always lacks potash and will not produce good crops 
without it. Many other black soils, often called by the farmers ' ' made 
lands, ' ' will be improved by potash. 

What are some of the conditions upon which the profit from the use of 
commercial fertilizers depend? 
On the seasons (whether wet or dry), drainage and cultivation. 

When the land is sour what element is usually lacking? 
Phosphorus, which is usually associat-ed with lime. 

FERTILIZER DON'TS. 

Don't expect fertilizers to take the place of green manure. 

Don't buy fertilizers and let your manure piles go to waste. 

Don't expect to get much benefit from fertilizers on land that is 
poorly drained. 

Don 't expect fertilizers to take the place of good tillage and culti- 
vation. 

Don 't forget that, if there is no humus in the soil, that the amount 
of fertilizers must be increased each year to get the same result. 

Don't run heavily in debt for fertilizers unless you are reasonably 
sure that they are needed and will pay. 

Don't forget that lime and good drainage are, probably, more im- 
portant than fertilizers. 

Don 't pay for fancy names. 

Don't use fertilizers blindly, determine by test what your soil 
needs. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 21 



MANURES. 

Distinguish between haryiyard and stable manure. 

Barnyard manure is from the feeding stalls and the yards and 
contains the droppings mixed with straw, hay, corn stalks, etc. Stable 
manure is free from external refuse. 

Compare the value of barnyard and stable manure with that of arti- 
ficial fertilizers. 
Barnyard and stable manure are not only a direct plant food, 

supplying nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash, but they also supply 

humus which is always needed. 

Is the practice of putting the manure on the land in piles to be spread 

later, a good onef 

No; by this method about one-half the value is lost by a process 
known to the chemist as denitrification. It also causes the crop to be 
uneven in growth and in ripening. 

When should manure be applied to the landf 

As soon as possible after making. If directly after making, so 
much the better. This saves the full value of the manure. 

On an ordinary dairy farm with thirty to forty cows how much is lost 
each season by not properly caring for the manure? 
Nearly enough to pay the wages of a good hired man through 

the summer. 

Give some rules for the care of manure? 

1. It should be kept under cover, away from the influences of 
the sun and rain. On many farms the manure piles are not only ex- 
posed to the weather, but they are directly under the eaves of the 
barn. After every shower streams of black, rich water may be seen 
rimning away and going to waste. If left exposed the manure pile 
will lose about one-half its value in four months. 

2. Save the liquid manure by using absorbents or catch it in a 
cement pit. A little money spent for these purposes would be well 
invested. 

Can anything be applied to the manure pile to prevent loss? 

Acid phosphate and "floats," one part of the former to two of 
the latter, will help. This also makes the manure a more evenly bal- 
anced fertilizer, since, when used alone, it contains nitrogen in ex- 
cess. For use of land-plaster, see answers under lime. 

How should manure be spread? 

Always from the wagon, preferably with a manure spreader. A 
light dressing of manure over a field each year is much better than 
heavier applications at longer intervals. 



22 TEE F ARM E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

Why is the manure spreader an advantage? 

It spreads the manure evenly, makes it finer and thus more 
quickly available. A ton of manure spread with a spreader as soon 
as made is worth four times as much as when left until fall and im- 
perfectly spread. 

How does the manure of different animals differ in value. 

Young animals, poor animals, and those producing a rich prod- 
uct, as milk, or those doing hard work, more thoroughly digest their 
food, hence their manure is of less value. Animals in good condition 
fed with rich feed, produce a correspondingly richer manure. 

Grade the farm stock according to the richness of their manure. 

Pigs, fowls, sheep, horses, cows. A 1,200-pound horse will pro- 
duce about $30 worth of fertilizer in a year ; a cow $19, a hog $12, and 
a sheep $2. To obtain these values the manure must be used to the 
best advantage. 

How may manure he kept from heating? 

When manure is packed very hard the air is excluded and it 
heats very little. Often manure is put on cement floors under sheds 
and the cattle allowed to run on it all winter. In the spring when 
drawn out it will be well preserved and very little of its value lost. 

What is green manure? 

By green manure is meant any green crops that are turned under 
to furnish plant food and humus. 

MANTJBE DON'TS. 

Don't expose the manure piles to the action of the sun and rain. 

Don't put manure in piles on the land to be spread later. 

Don't pile manure around the trunks of trees; spread it as far 
out as the limbs go. 

Don 't let your horse manure accumulate ; it will heat and spoil. 

Don't put clear manure in hills in contact with seeds. 

Don't forget that liquid manure is immediately available as plant 
food and should be saved. 

Don't mix lime with manure: use land plaster, acid phosphate 
or "floats." 

Don't leave manure in the stables to scent up the barn and taint 
the milk. 

Don't forget that manure properly cared for and rightl}' used 
is one of the props that keeps up the prosperity of the farm. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOE FARMING 23 



IMPROVING THE SOIL WITHOUT COMMERCIAL FERTIL- 
IZERS OR BARNYARD MANURE. 

WJiat methods may he us(el to improve the soil without eommercial 

fertilizers or barnyard manure f 

Draining, liming and turning nnder green crops. The methods 
must, of course, conform to the conditions. If land is wet and soggy, 
hardly anything can be accomplished without drainage. If the owner 
can not afford to tile drain, make deep surface ditches where they will 
do the most good. After draining determine if the soil needs lime. 
When the field has been drained and limed, turn under green crops. 

What green crops are the hest for poor soil? 

If the soil is very poor, begin with rye. This will grow when all 
other crops will fail. Do not attempt to raise clover on poor soil. For 
a second crop, buckwheat may be grown, or another crop of rye. 

How (lid an Illinois farmer increase his hay crop from practically 

nothing to more than three tons to the acre? 

He plowed the land in the fall and spread air-slaked lime over 
it at the rate of two tons per acre, harrowed it very thoroughly and 
sowed to rye, using three and one-half bushels to the acre. During 
the latter part of the next May the rye was plowed under, the field 
again harrowed thoroughly and sown to soy beans, two and one-half 
bushels to the acre. In September the plants were turned under, a 
chain having to be used on the plow, the field harrowed and again 
sown to rye at the rate of three bushels to the acre. The next spring, 
about the middle of May. the second crop of rye was turned under, 
the field again thoroughly harrowed and seeded to a grass mixture 
containing ten quarts of timothy, six of mammoth red clover and two of 
red top. The growth was rapid and in August the young plants were 
clipped high. The next season the timothy stood as high as the 
horses' backs with a fine clover bottom. The field yielded over three 
tons of cured hay to the acre. 

Under what conditions are crops turned under more valuable than 

commercial fertilizers f 

When the soil lacks humus. Soil so worn out that it contains no 
organic matter is not much benefitted by commercial fertilizers. After 
humus has been supplied, fertilizers may be used with profit. 

What indicaticms point to a lack of humus in the soil? 

When the soil is light colored and tends to become hard. 

What plants are valuable as a fertilizer, besides supplying humus f 

The legumes, clover, alfalfa, soy beans, etc. They take up nitro- 
gen from the air and decaying give it up to the soil. 



24 THE FARMERS' a TT I D E BOOK 

What must always he done when bringing up poor landf 

The land must be thoroughly tilled. Good tillage not only destroys 
weeds, but it conserves moisture and brings new food within the reach 
of plants. 

How should clay land that tends to harden in clods be treated? 

Plow in the fall and leave to the action of the frost. Such land 
usually needs lime and humus. If plowed in the spring, the clods 
should be harrowed down at once. Tile draining should have a 
marked effect on such land. Unless in the fall, always harrow newly 
plowed land as soon as possible after plowing. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 25 



LIME. 

What are the functions of lime in the soilf 

(1) Corrects sour soil; (2) promotes the growth of useful soil 
bacteria; (3) helps to liberate plant food; (4) helps to soften hard 
clay; (5) enables sandy soil to retain more moisture; (6) renders some 
of the toxic substances of the soil less injurious; (7) acts as a direct 
plant food for alfalfa and some other members of the clover family. 

What are some of the indications of the need of lime in the soil? 

(1) When moist soil will turn blue litmus paper red; (2) the 
presence of moss and sorrel; (3) failure of red clover on the soil; (4) 
the succession of timothy by red-top. 

Discuss the blue litmus paper test for sour soil. 

Soil acidity may be tested with blue litmus paper in two ways; 
(1) Bury a piece of the litmus paper in the soil to be tested. If, on 
its removal, the paper shows a red color after drying, it is a reason- 
ably sure indication that the soil is sour and in need of lime. Under 
certain conditions, however, the soil solutions may decompose the 
coloring matter of the paper, leaving a red color when the soil is not 
actually sour. For this reason the litmus paper should remain buried 
only a few minutes. (2) Place a sample of the soil to be tested with 
twice its bulk of water in a fruit jar, shake thoroughly and let settle. 
If the clear liquid above turns blue litmus red, the soil is sour. 



A NEW TEST FOR ACID SOIL 

A much more reliable and satisfactory test for soil acidity has 
recently been devised by Prof. E. Truog. of the Agricultural Depart- 
ment of the University of Wisconsin. It is somewhat more complicated 
than the litmus paper test, and special, though simple, apparatus is 
needed. The test is conducted as follows : 

Place in a 300 c.c. Erlenmeyer flask 5 grams of chemically pure 
zinc sulphide and 50 grams of neutral calcium chloride, consisting of 
the dihydrate, CaCU . 211.0, or 75 grams of the hexahydrate, CaCL 
.6 HgO, exactly 9 c.c. of soil and add 250 c.c. of pure water. Boil for 
one minute over a steady flame (alcohol or Bunsen burner), then place 
over the mouth of the flask a filter paper, that has been moistened with 
a 10% solution of lead acetate and dried, and boil for exactly two 
minutes more. If the soil is sour, hydrogen sulphide, an ill smelling 
gas, will be driven off and will discolor the paper, forming lead sul- 
phide with the acetate. A bulletin has been prepared by the university 
with a color chart representing different degrees of acidity. The exact 
measurements of amount of soil and time of boiling form a basis for 
determining acidity in different degrees. 



26 THE F AR M E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 

Discuss the need of lime in the soil. 

Most crops can not be raised successfully unless the soil contains 
an ample supply of lime. The heavier the land, the more lime will 
be needed. Light, sandy and gravelly soils may be injured by using 
too much lime. Not only do crops cause a loss of lime in the soil, but 
the use of some commercial fertilizers hasten its removal, sometimes 
even to the extent of 1,000 pounds in a single year. The more ani- 
mal manure, fertilizers, or green manure you apply, the more lime 
you will take out, and this should be replaced. The roots of legu- 
minous crops turned under can not decay properly without the use 
of lime ; and unless they decay, the nitrates stored by the bacteria 
are not available for the following crops. Without lime the land be- 
comes hard and proper cultivation impossible. — Farm Economics. 

Mention in their order some of the crops that are benefited hy lime. 

Beets, alfalfa, cantaloupes, clover, peas, beans, onions, celery 
Kentucky blue-grass, timothy, wlieat, oats, barley and most seed and 
stone fruits. 

Mention some plants tJiat are indifferent to lime? 
Corn, millet, golden rye, potatoes and carrots. 

What plants are injured hy lime? 

Watermelons, strawberries, cranberries, huckleberries, red-top 
and sorrel. 

What are some of the varieties of lime that are used as fertilizers? 
Ground limetsone, quick lime and hydrated lime. 

What cautions should he ohserred in huying lime? 

Always be sure which variety of lime you are buying and pay 
accordingly. Quick lime, which has the highest lime value, is also sold 
under the names of burned lime, caustic lime, lump lime, stone lime 
and calcium oxide. When water is applied to it it '^ slakes" and be- 
comes hydrated lime, e. g., lime with water added, also known as agri- 
cultural lime, water-slaked lime, calcium hydrate, precipitated lime 
and by other fancy names. An instance is recorded in which a man 
bought quick lime for $4.50 per ton, added water to it and sold it 
under the name of hydrated lime at $11.00 per ton. This gave him 
about $11.00 per ton for all the water that he added. 

What are the relative values of the lime compounds? 

Chemically, 56 pounds of quick lime are equal to 74 pounds of 
hydrated lime and to 100 pounds of ground limestone. It will be 
seen, therefore, that it will require about twice the amount of ground 
limestone and a third more of hydrated lime to ecpial tlie same weight 
of quick lime. The fineness of lime is an important factor in deter- 
mining the comparative values of its different forms. Unless ground 
very fine, limestone will not give satisfactory results, especially the 
first year. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 27 

What are some other substances that furnish lime? 

Gypsum, marl, ground shells, phosphate rock and wood ashes. 
Gypsum is not now used to correct sour soil, as it has in itself an 
acid-forming ion. Wood ashes contain about 33 per cent, of lime 
and are usually beneficial. 

Which form of lime is the most beneficial? 

Authorities have not yet agreed upon this point. On heavy clay 
soils which are somewhat moist the quick lime would, probably, be 
more satisfactory, while on black soils, containing plenty of humus, 
the writer would advise the use of one of the other forms. 

What is the relation of lime to potash ? 

It must be remembered when purchasing lime that, strictly 
speaking, lime is not a plant food, but simply an agent that sweetens 
sour or acid soils. It tends to make available a part of the potash 
naturally in the soil, and it has a similar effect on the crude forms 
of organic nitrogen. The continued use of lime alone will lead to a 
serious soil depletion, unless the necessary plant foods are supplied. 

The use of lime is of great value to the farmer when conditions 
justify its use; and while it will tend to release soil potash, yet it 
will in no wise take the place of potash. 

There are some soils that are improved by the use of lime ; there 
are others that are not. There are some crops benefited by liming, 
some are indifferent to it, while a few are injured by it. Lime is a 
valuable agent, but it should not be used indiscriminately. Before 
applying lime to the field, know the reason why you are using it. 
Guesswork should not enter into the methods of the reading farmer. 
— The Practical Farmer. 

How should lime be applied? 

Lime should be applied after the ground is plowed and thor- 
oughly mixed with the soil by harrowing or disking. The more thor- 
oughly it is mixed with the soil the better and quicker the results will 
be. It should never be plowed under, because its tendency is to work 
downward rather than. upward in the soil. Apply lime with a 
spreader after the ground has been plowed. Do not drill lime in with 
seeds, nor mix it with commercial fertilizer, nor use it in place of fer- 
tilizer. Apply lime to meet the lime requirement of a soil, and when 
this has been done use manure and commercial fertilizers in the ways 
that have been found profitable for the crops which are to be grown, 
regardless of the fact that lime has been applied. — Bulletin 131, 
Pennsylvania State College. 

In what sections of the United States is lime most needed? 

New England, New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, 
Maryland, Virginia, the coast states of the South and some of the 
Central States. Many portions of these, however, do not need lime. 



28 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOB 

Will lime interfere with the action of fertilizers? 

If applied separately, lime will not act on fertilizers to any 
appreciable extent. If lime is mixed with fertilizers or manures be- 
fore applying to the land, it will cause them to lose their nitrogen. 

May lime he applied directly to the soil without plowing? 

Yes. While it is desirable that the lime should be as thoroughly 
incorporated with the soil as possible, it is often practicable to apply 
it to the unplowed land, preferably in late summer, fall, or winter 
when the ground is bare. 

What is important in order to get the full benefit of lime? 

The addition of manure and the turning under of green crops 
are absolutely essential to receive the continued benefit of lime. 

How much lime sh&uld be applied per acre? 

From 500 to 800 lbs. of quick lime, or equivalent amounts of the 
other varieties. It is better to apply once in two or three years, rather 
than to apply large amounts at longer intervals. 

What is land-plaster and for what is it used? 

Land plaster is another name for gypsum. It is a whitish, odor- 
less, non-corrosive powder obtained by grinding a natural rock found 
in Nova Scotia and other places. While it should not be used as a 
lime, it is the best substance now known for absorbing liquid manure 
and for preventing the escape of ammonia. Use it liberally upon the 
floors and under the roosts in poultry houses, and wherever ammonia 
gas is escaping. It will pay well to throw some upon the manure piles, 
especially upon the horse manure. 

LIME DON'TS. 

I>on't expect lime to take the place of fertilizers. 

Don't buy of unreliable dealers. 

Don't use lime when it is not needed. 

Don't store quick lime. 

Don't pay more for hydrated lime than you would for quick 
lime. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 29 



ALFALFA. 

What is alfalfa? 

Alfalfa (Arabic, best-fodder ; French name lucern) was known in 
Asia 490 B. C. It is a deep-rooted, long-lived perennial belonging 
to the clover family (Legiirainosfe) ; stems one to four feet high re- 
sembling sweet clover; flowers purple, rarely white, leaves slender 
and toothed near apex. It is the most valuable of the forage crops. 

Where can alfalfa be raised? 

Alfalfa can be raised in all parts of the United States and on 
some part of every farm. 

What conditions are necessary for grotving alfalfa? 

1. The soil must be well drained. The safest way to prepare 
for the crop is by a thorough system of tile drainage. Alfalfa will 
not flourish on wet, soggy soil. A good rule is to try to raise it only 
on such soil as would grow a good crop of com in a very wet season. 

2. The soil must not be sour. A good coat of lime, from 1,000 
to 2,000 pounds per acre is usually necessary, 

3. The soil should be inoculated. By this is meant supplying to 
the soil those bacteria which are necessary for plant growth. It is 
not always necessary to do this, as the bacteria may already be in the 
soil. If they are not there, the plants will make a very weak, puny 
start and then die. 

4. The soil should be free from weeds. Thorough preparation 
must be made in this particular, as the young alfalfa plants are 
tender and easily choked out. It is well to precede the alfalfa with 
a cultivated crop, or summer fallow and kill all the weeds by dragging 
as often as they start up. 

5. The seed bed must be well supplied with humus, well har- 
rowed and firmy packed. A layer of dry lumps or dry manure a few 
inches under the mellow surface would spoil the crop. See that the 
soil is well mixed, moist and fine down to the solid ground. 

When should alfalfa be sown? 

No specific rule can be given when to sow alfalfa, as it depends 
upon the season and the soil. As a general rule, it should be sown 
in the spring, about the middle of May, in the North, and in the fall 
in the South. If the ground is weedy, it is generally better to keep 
it harrowed during the summer and sow the seed in August. That 
seeded in the fall, however, must run the chance of insects and dry 
weather. Should September and October be very dry, late sowing 
would probably be disastrous. Alfalfa needs plenty of moisture, 
although it cannot live in undrained soil. 



30 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

How may bacteria for inoculating he ohtainedf 

1. The Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C, will sup- 
ply, free of charge, sealed tubes of the culture with full directions 
for its use. 

2. Two hundred to 400 pounds of soil from any successful alfalfa 
field would be sufficient to inoculate one acre. 

3. Soil from ground where sweet clover has grown for several 
years contains the same bacteria and may be used successfully. 

How much alfalfa seed sJwidd he sown per acref 

From 15 to 25 pounds in the East ; 10 to 15 pounds in the West. 

What varieties of alfalfa are the hest? 

Grimm and Turkestan are the only two varieties that are hardy 
in the North, The Turkestan was imported from Turkey under the 
auspices of the United States Department of Agriculture. The Grimm 
originated in Carver County, Minnesota, and was introduced by the 
Minnesota Experiment Station. It seems to be a little hardier than 
the Turkestan. 

What are the enemies of alfalfa? 

Dodder, a parasitic plant with a long slender stem and no leaves, 
is about the only enemy that preys upon alfalfa in the North and 
East. Very close cropping by horses or sheep will often destroy the 
dodder plant, while giving the alfalfa only a temporary set-back. 
Foxtail is the worst enemy in the West. 

How may good alfalfa seed he ohtainedf 

It cannot always be obtained. Get samples and submit them to 
your experiment station. 

How may dodder seed he removed f 

A 20-mesh sieve of No. 34 wire will remove practically all the 
dodder seed. 

Should alfalfa he sown alone or with a nurse crop? 

It is usually safer to sow alone. Very good results have been 
obtained, however, by sowing it with oats or beardless barley, five 
pecks to the acre, and cutting when in milk. This furnishes a valu- 
able forage crop, and, in very hot seasons, protects the alfalfa. The 
alfalfa should be about six inches high in order to withstand the 
winter. 

What is a striking peculiarity of alfalfa? 

Its roots go deep into the soil and take up plant food entirely 
out of the reach of any other crop. For this reason it needs a deep 
soil and is not affected by dry weather. 

When should alfalfa he cut? 

Cut alfalfa as soon as the red blossoms appear, or, as it has been 
said, "when ten per cent, of the plants are in bloom." 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 31 

How should alfalfa he cured? 

It may be cured and put into the mow the same as timothy, or it 
may be put into the silo for silage. If the crop matures during the 
rainy season, about the only way to save it is to put it into the silo or 
uii» for soiling. 

What may he done to hasteyi the groivth of a thin alfalfa crop? 

Gro over it with a disc harrow. This often seems to give the crop 
a new lease of life. 

Why is alfalfa valuable f 

This is best answered by quoting the following "Alfalfa Prov- 
erbs" from the Farm Journal: 

Alfalfa is the best soil doctor, and it adds liuraus to the soil. 

Alfalfa increases the milk flow. 

Alfalfa is high in feeding value, and balances the corn ration. 
Grow your protein — don't buy it. 

Alfalfa sod grows larger corn crops. 

Alfalfa is the greatest of all subsoilers, and has no equal as a 
hog pasture. 

Alfalfa keeps stock in good condition, and should be grown on 
every farm where it can be grown. 

An alfalfa tield is a hog's idea of heaven. 

Foxtail is the greatest enemy of alfalfa. 

Growing alfalfa is good farming. 

Alfalfa means more money and better homes. Raise what you 
feed and feed what you raise. 

Alfalfa does things, and never loafs on the job ; with i\ fair ch.-ince 
it always makes good. 

Alfalfa fills the haymow and pays for the privilege; it is the 
cheapest and best feed for beef and cattle. 

Alfalfa insures larger yields from the crops that follow. It con- 
tains more protein to the ton than clover or corn. 

_ Alfalfa is the agricutural wonder of the twentietli century. It 
yields from two to three times as much as clover or tiuiothv and is 
more valuable than hay. 

AiFALFA DON'TS. 

Don't sow alfalfa on wet or sour soil. 

Don't sow alfalfa on weedy ground. 

Don't neglect to inoculate the soil. 

Don't turn the cows into the alfalfa when the dew is on it un- 
less you want to lose them. 



32 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

Don't let the alfalfa get too ripe. 

Don't neglect to write to your experiment station for their bulle- 
tins on alfalfa. 

Don't cover the alfalfa seed deep. 

Don't get frightened if the alfalfa does not come up thick and 
rank at first ; give it time, especially if the right conditions have been 
provided. 

Don't be afraid that you cannot get rid of alfalfa, once you get 
it started. You vt^ill not want to get rid of it, any more than you want 
to get rid of your best cow. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 33 



POTATOES. 

What are potatoes? 

Irish potatoes are enlargements of the underground stems of the 
plant. Sweet potatoes are the enlarged roots. 

On what kind of soil can potatoes he raised? 

Potatoes may be raised on almost any soil, provided it contains 
the proper plant food. 

What kind of soil is best adapted to potatoes? 

Potatoes do the best in a rich, sandy loam, well drained and well 
supplied with humus. 

Hoiv should the soil be prepared for a good crop of potatoes? 

A clover sod on well drained soil is the best foundation for a good 
crop of potatoes. Other legumes (alfalfa, cow-peas, soy beans, peas, 
beans and vetches), buckwheat and rye are profitable crops to turn 
under for potatoes. PIom' deep and liarrow to the same depth, using 
an Acme harrow or a spring-tooth drag. If the ground is plowed in 
the fall and again in the spring, so much the better. Potatoes do best 
in mellow soil. 

// it is not feasible to turn under green crops, what fertilizers may 
be used? 

Commercial fertilizers or well rotted stable manure. Unless the 
manure is very thoroughly rotted, it should be applied to the previous 
crop. Commercial fertilizers should never be applied directly to the 
potatoes. 

What brand of commercial fertilizers is the best for potatoes? 

This will depend, as for any other crop, on what the soil lacks. 
In general it has been found that the best potato fertilizer is one that 
contains a large per cent of potash. 

Are wood ashes a good fertilizer for potatoes? 

Wood ashes should never be used on potatoes, as they promote 
scab. 

Eoiv should the seed-pieces be cut for planting? 

Opinions differ widely on this point ; but it is, probably, best to 
cut the potatoes lengthwise and put only one piece in a hill. Large 
seed-pieces do better than small ones. 

Is there any choice between the seed-end of the potato and the stem- 
end as regards seed? 

The seed-end sprouts sooner and will give a better vield than the 
stem-end. 



34 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

What affect does early sprouting in the cellar have upon the value 

of the seed? 

The early sprouts in the cellar sap the life of the tubers. If they 
are broken off before planting, numerous weak and useless shoots grow 
from the injured eyes. 

Is it advisable to plant small potatoes? 

Small potatoes, if planted from hills that produced only small 
potatoes, are almost sure to produce a similar crop. When selected 
from good hills, small potatoes will do very well, but the general 
practice of planting them should be discouraged. 

How much seed is required per acre? 

Uncut seed, 10 to 12 bushels ; cut seed, 8 to 10 bushels. 

When should the seed potatoes he cut? 

Ordinarily it does not matter; but the seed pieces should not be 
left in piles, as they would soon heat and spoil. In a cold, wet season 
freshly cut seed rots much more quickly than that which has been 
allowed to dry. If a cold wet spell is expected, better plant whole 
potatoes. 

When is the best time to plant potatoes? 

Plant early potatoes as soon as the ground is warm, probably 
about the middle of May. Late potatoes should be planted about a 
month after. 

Mention some good varieties of early potatoes. 

Early Ohio, Six Weeks, Early Rose, Early Andrus, Salzer's 
Earliest Bovee, Michigan, Early Trumbell. 

Mention some good varieties of late potatoes. 

Carman No. 3, Sir Walter Raleigh, Green Mountain, Rural New 
Yorker No. 2. 

How deep should potatoes be planted? 

Potatoes should be planted about four inches deep. The potatoes 
formed are very little deeper than the seed pieces ; hence when planted 
near the surface the potatoes are apt to get sunburned and unfit for 
cooking. 

How far apart should potatoes be planted? 

Plant in rows about three feet apart and from 15 to 18 inches 
apart in the rows. 

How much should potatoes be cultivated? 

Cultivate every ten days until the tops cover the ground. If the 
season is very dry, cultivate shallow often enough to have the ground 
covered with a thin dust mulch. This will prevent the moisture from 
escaping and insure a good crop. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 35 

What objection is there to planting potatoes on sod ground? 

Sod ground very often abounds in white grubs, the larvae of the 
May beetle. These eat into the potatoes and destroy them. 

How may heavy clay soil he fitted for potatoes? 

Turn under a green crop such as clover, rye or buckwheat. See 
questions and answers under drainage. 

Why do potatoes run out? 

Potatoes "run out" because of the poor selection of seed. If seed 
is selected each year from the most prolific hills, the potatoes will not 
only not "run out," but the yield will be greatly increased. 

What is considered a good yield of potatoes? 

The average yield in the United States for the last ten years was 
76.6 bushels per acre. Professional growers expect from 200 to 300 
bushels per acre, and yields of from 500 to 800 bushels are often 
reported. For such crops, however, all the conditions of soil, climate 
and cultivation must be perfect. 

How are new varieties started? 

Spread the seeds of the ripe potato ball on a paper and let them 
dry. The seeds may be planted either in a box in the house or in 
warm mellow soil out doors early in the spring. Each seed will usually 
produce a new variety which will require three years to mature. Plant 
the whole potato each year. The first year the potatoes will vary 
in size all the way from that of a pea to potatoes large enough for 
cooking. The smallest ones are usually not worth saving. The 
potato balls are very rarely found on highly developed potatoes, but 
may be obtained of seedmen. 

Occasionally, but not often, new varieties, termed "mutations" 
or "sports," develop in the hills of standard sorts. These may per- 
petuate their characteristics, or they may revert to the old type. 

When is the best time to market potatoes? 

In the long run it is much more profitable to sell potatoes directly 
from the field when dug. Storing in the cellar necessitates more 
labor, incurs the loss due to rotting and shrinking and the risk of lower 
prices in the spring. 

What causes potato blight? 

There are several kinds of blight ; as, the early blight, late blight, 
tipburn, flea-beetle blight, etc. The early blight and the late blight 
do the most damage. The early blight first appears as circular yellow 
spots near the edges of the leaves. These gradually increase in size, 
become brown, the leaves roll up, the stems are affected and the plant 
dies. This blight does not cause the potatoes to decay. It is causad 
by a parasitic fungus which takes root upon the leaves and saps their 
vitality. Dry weather is favorable to this blight. 



36 THE FARM BBS' GUIDE BOOK 

The late blight is also caused by a parasitic plant (Phytophthora 
infestans) and is much more serious than the first blight, as it causes 
the potatoes to decay. It is at first noticed as irregular-shaped, brown 
spots on the leaves. These spread rapidly and soon kill the plant. 
Warm, moist weather is favorable to late blight. 

How may potato Mights he prevented? 

Potato blight may be prevented by persistent spraying with 
Bordeaux mixture. Begin spraying when the plants are about six 
inches high, before the blight appears, and repeat about every ten days. 
Use a machine that will give a fine spray with considerable force. 
The plants must be thoroughly covered. 

What causes scab on potatoes? 

Various causes have been assigned for scab, but it is, probably, 
due to a fungus growth which may be either planted with the potatoes 
or which lives in the soil in which potatoes have been planted. 

How may potato scab he controlled f 

An absolute preventive of potato scab has not yet been dis- 
covered, but the following methods are more or less effective : 

1. Soak the potatoes before cutting, for two hours, in a solution 
of 1 pint of 40% formalin to 30 gallons of water. If not planted 
at once, they must be spread out to dry. 

2. Expose the potatoes to the sunlight before planting until 
the outsides become green, 

3. Do not plant on scab-infested ground. 

4. Do not use lime, wood ashes or barnyard manure for fertilizer. 
The plowing under of green crops has no affect on scab fungus 

which will live in the ground about six years. 

What is the cause of the dry rot and the wet rot so often seen when 

potatoes are in storage? 

These rots are caused by bacteria which may have their origin 
in the stem rot in the fields, or from infected bins. All bins should 
be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before the new crop of potatoes 
is put in. A warm, moist cellar is very favorable to the develop- 
ment of the rots. 

Which is better, tiill culture or flat culture? 

This of course depends somewhat upon the season ; but, if potatoes 
are to be raised on a commercia] .scale, flat culture is the onl}^ method 
to be recommended. 

Hotv did one potato grotver increase his yield more than 300 per cent? 

1. He plowed the field in the fall, turning under a heavy growth 
of red clover. 

This seems to be about the best method of fertilizing for potatoes. 
The Wisconsin experiinent station (Bulletin 117) reports a test of 
different fertilizers with the following result: Green clover, 241 



USEFUL FACTS AS'D RULES FOR FARMING 37 

bushels per acre; 10 tons of stable manure, 197 bushels per acre; 
700 pounds of commercial fertilizer, 192 bushels per acre; no fer- 
tilizer, 174 bushels per acre. The test was made on sandy soil. 

2. He had obtained his seed by going over a hand-dug field 
and selecting the bast tubers from only those hills which yielded at 
least six merchantable potatoes. 

Few farmers seem to realize, as yet, the importance of seed selec- 
tion in potato husbandry. The writer once kept separate the potatoes 
from all hills which yielded at least seven good tubers, finding only 
about a half dozen in a half-acre field. The next year he planted 
ten rows of about 50 hills each, using for one row the selected seed 
and for the others potatoes as they run from the bin. A difference 
in foliage was noticed almost from the start, that from the row with 
the selected seed l)eing much more vigorous and stocky. When dug 
this one row yielded as many good potatoes as were obtained from 
the other nine. Did the selection pay? 

3. He began spraying with Bordeaux mixture when the tops were 
about six inches high, and sprayed seven times during the season. 
When the striped bugs began to appear, he added 3 pounds of arsenate 
of lead for every 50 gallons of the Bordeaux mixture. 

4. He began cultivating about as soon as the tops were out 
of the ground, at first deeply then more and more shallow, keeping 
a mulch of fine dry dirt on the surface during the dry season. 

Give the life liisforij of tlie Colorado hcctle. 

The eggs are laid on the under side of the leaves almost as soon 
as the potatoes are up. These soon hatch out dark-reddish slugs 
whose main business is to eat. The slugs, or larvae, attain their full 
growth in about three weeks after which they go into the ground 
to pupate, becoming beetles about a month after hatching. There 
are, sometimes, four generations a year. 

What is "potato canker" f 

"Potato canker," also known as "black scab," "warty, or cauli- 
flower disease," first made its appearance in Hungary in 1896. It has 
spread through Europe and is now getting a foothold in upper 
Canada, having been brought to that country in imported potatoes. 
The disease is not indicated by the potato vines. It begins in the eye 
of the potato, in small, rusty brown nodules, which quickly grow, 
assuming a cauliflower-like form, until the potato becomes a shapeless 
mass with an unpleasant, rotten odor. 

What may he done to prevent "potato canl-er"? 

See that your own seed is sound and do not use any imported 
stock. If canker appears in the field, do not plant more potatoes there 
for at least six years. No remedy has, as yet, been found for the 
disease; and only eternal vigilance can prevent it from ruining one of 
our most important crops. 



38 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

POTATO DON'TS. 

Don't plant on poorly drained soil. 

Don't expect to raise potatoes on soil that contains no humus. 

Don't neglect to cultivate. 

Don't use lime sulphur on potatoes. 

Don't plant potatoes on the same soil year after year. 

Don't plant seed from poor hills. 

Don't let the seed sprout in the cellar, if you can prevent it. 

Don 't cut your seed and then leave it in piles to spoil. 

Don't wait until the blight appears before you begin to spray. 

Don't fail to go through the bins now and then and remove every 
rotten potato. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 39 



CORN. 

What states comprise the famous "Corn Belt" of the United Spates f 
Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska and Missouri. 

In what other parts of the United States may corn he raised? 

In the entire eastern half, except the extreme north and south, 
and in parts of most of the "Western States. 

How many types of corn are there? 

Six, dent, flint, pop, sweet, pod and soft. 

What climate is best suited for corn? 

Corn requires a high temperature during the growing season, 
long days of bright sunshine, warm nights and plenty of moisture. 

What is the most profitable variety of corn to plant? 

The largest that will ripen in your section. Each farmer must 
determine this for himself. In general, the flint varieties, because of 
their earliness are raised in the East and the dent varieties in the 
West. A few of the early dent varieties are now beginning to dis- 
place the flint varieties of the East. 

What is a good crop to precede corn? 

Clover or grass. A clover sod on which well rotted barnyard 
manure has been spread during the previous winter or spring is ideal. 

What kind, of soil is best suited, for corn? 

A well drained, sandy or gravelly loam, well supplied with humus. 
Corn may, however, be raised on any kind of soil, provided it has 
sufficient depth and richness. 

How should land be prepared for corn? 

First, select good soil. Corn is not a poor land crop. Plow deep 
and harrow thoroughly both ways. A good crop cannot be obtained 
unless the ground is mellow. One of the common mistakes of farmers 
is that they do not prepare their land thoroughly. Going over it 
once more with the harrow will often increase the crop ten per cent. 
The finer the soil, the more plant food it will give up. 

What is one of the most important factors in securing a, good corn 

crop? 

Selected seed. Go through the field at cutting time. Select 
vigorous well-leaved stalks, cut, and when thoroughly cured, husk 
and place the ears in a pile by themselves. If there is sufficient num- 
ber, save only from stalks that yielded at least two good ears. 

Give rides for selecting ears? 

Select medium ears, well filled with straight rows and well 
rounded at both ends. The color should.be bright and the kernels 



40 THE FARMERS' G V IDE B O K 

firm on the cob. The ears should not hollow in from butt to tip, but 
should taper very gradually. Save ears that are uniform in size 
and shape. 

What care should be given to ears after they have been selected? 

They should dry thoroughly before being allowed to freeze; then 
store in a dry place where they will not be subjected to extremes of 
heat or cold. 

What sJiould be done with the seed just before planting? 

Test to determine if the seed will grow. One cause of a poor 
crop of corn is the poor stand. It is estimated that every poor ear 
planted causes a loss of $4.00. The corn expert of today knows 
not only every kernel he plants will grow, but also that its vitality is 
strong. 

How can seed corn be tested? 

Prof. P. G. Holden, of the Iowa Agricultural College, suggests 
the following method : 

''Make a box three inches deep and 30x30 inches in size; fill it 
about half full with moist sawdust and tamp firmly with a brick. Rule 
off a piece of good cloth into squares 21/2x21/: inches checker board 
fashion, and number the squares 1, 2, 3, etc. Place the cloth, which 
should be the size of the germination box, on the sawdust and tack it 
to the sides and ends of the box. Lay the ears of corn to be tested 
side by side on the table or floor. Remove six kernels from six different 
places from ear No. 1 and place them in square No. 1 in the germina- 
tion box, germ side up, and crown pointing from you. Then remove 
six kernels in a like manner from ear No. 2 and place in square No. 2 
in the germination box, and so on. When the squares in the germina- 
tion box are all filled, lay a piece of good cloth over the kernels and 
dampen by srinkling water over it. Place over this a cloth consid- 
erably larger than the box and fill the box M^th moist sawdust, tamp 
with a brick or board and firmly pack on top of the corn. Keep the 
box in place where it will not freeze ; raise the upper side of the box, 
or the side toward which the crowns of the kernels point, three or 
four inches ; the stem sprouts will then grow up and the root sprouts 
down, thus making it easier to read the test. It requires about five 
days for the corn to germinate. At the end of that time roll back 
and remove the cloth containing the top layer of sawdust. Now re- 
move the second cloth as carefully as possible and examine the six 
sprouted kernels in each square. 

"The above box when completed and set away for germination 
may be described briefly as follows : Two inches of sawdust packed 
firmly in the bottom of the box. On tbis is laid the cloth ruled off in 
squares; then the kernels laid in squares, the second cloth laid on the 
kernels and dampened, then a third cloth much larger than the box, on 
which is placed two inches more of sawdust packed firmly. The edges 
of the larger cloth may be, folded over on top of the sawdust. Soak 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 41 



the sawdust at least two hours — better over night. Use a good quality 
of sheeting for the cloth that is ruled ofiF in squares, and also for the 
cloth covering the kernels. Do not use a cheap, porous grade cloth, 
as the sprouts will grow through it and greatly interfere with the work. 

"Leave a two-inch margin around the edges of the box to prevent 
freezing and drying out. Make the squares to receive the kernels 
21/2x21/2 inches. Never use the box more than once without thoroughly 
scalding both the sawdust and the clotlis. To insure accurate reading, 
the stem sprouts should be at least two inches long when examined. 
Throw out all ears that show weak germination, as well as the ears 
whose kernels fail to grow." 

Describe the ''ear and row" method of obtaining seed corn. 

Select fifty to one hundred of the best tested ears and plant a row 
from each, using half the kernels on the ear ; number the rows and the 
remaining half-ears so that you may determine what row each ear pro- 
duced. It will be found that some rows will be much stronger and 
more prolific than others. Use the remaining seed from the ears that 
produced the rows for the next year's crop. The ears of the rows, 
being cross fertilized, would not breed true to seed. 

When should, corn seed be planted? 

Plant when all danger of frost is nvei- and the ground is warm. 

How deep shotiJd corn he planted and how many kernels in a hillf 

Plant just deep enough to obtain moisture, from i/j to II/2 inches. 
A great deal of corn is planted too deep. Plant in rows, 3i/> feet 
each way, three kernels in a hill. If the variety is small, or it is 
planted for silage, it may be planted closer and more in a hill. Use 
a horse planter if any considerable acreage is planted; if only a smnll 
amount, a hand planter may be used. 

Give rules for cultivating. 

Go over the field with a weeder three or four times after planting 
to kill the weeds that are just starting. When the corn is three or 
four inches high it may be cultivated at least six inches deep and 
close to the hill ; but later, when the roots begin to spread, only shallow 
cultivation is permissible. Many farmers lessen their crop from 10% 
to 15% by cultivating so deeply .that the fine food-seeking roots are 
injured or destroyed. Two and one-half inches is deep enough after 
the plants get well started. Never go through the corn with a shovel 
plow. 

flow often should corn be cullivatcd? 

Often enough to kill the weeds. If the season is dry, cultivate at 
least twice a week, or often enough to keep a mulch of fine dry dust 
:ibout two inches thick on top of the ground. This will conserve the 
moisture and give it to the growing plants. Water does not easily 
penetrate fine, dry dust. The dust mulch is one of the secrets of 
successful corn growing. 



42 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

What fertilizers are iest for corn ? 

Well rotted barnyard manure is the best. Commercial fertilizers, 
especially those rich in phosporus. will pay ; but they should be sown 
broadcast, rather than placed in the hill. A compact handful of fer- 
tilizer placed in the hill of any plant will do more harm than good. 

What is the cause of corn smut? 

Corn smut is caused by a fungus that may affect any part of the 
plant above ground. The ripened spores of smut fungi are carried 
by the wind ; and when they fall on the moist surface of any part of 
the plant, not too mature they take root and grow. Soft li>;.sue, caused 
by injury to the plant, is a fruitful field for smut spores. 

What fields of corn are most liable to corn smut? 

Corn grown on rich, moist soil. Such corn makes a rapid growth 
and exposes much tender surface. 

How may corn smut he controlled? 

Burn all affected stalks from the old crop. Gather all the pos- 
tules from the new field and bum them. The field should be gone 
over at least three times during the season to be effective. The smut 
may be controlled by spraying, but this method is not to be recom- 
mended. 

When should corn he cut? 

If for silage, cut as soon as the ears begin to glaze ; if for the corn, 
leave a little longer, or until the lower husks begin to turn white. 
Leave in the field until well cured. 

What care should he taken of husked corn to prevent it from spoiling? 

It should be piled loosely in an open crib, which will allow the air 

to circulate freely through the sides and bottom. A special wire is 

now made for corn cribs ; this not only admits the air, but is rat proof. 

Mention some of the uses of corn on the farm? 

Corn may be fed to all kinds of stock and poultry. During the 
cold weather the horses, when not at work, will do nicely on timothy 
with a dozen good ears of corn three times a day. Hogs may be fat- 
tened on corn cheaper than on any other kind of food. It is neces- 
sary for poultry, especially during the cold weather. It is not a hot 
weather food. A mixture of one part of corn meal to two of oat meal 
makes an excellent ration for cows. The writer does not advise feed- 
ing corn on the ear to cows. Corn stalks are valuable as a coarse 
food when properly balanced with other rations. 

CORN DON'TS. 

Don't use poor seed. 
Don't plant too close. 
Don't neglect to cultivate. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOB FARMING 43 

Don't expect a good crop on poor, wet soil. 

Don't plant before the ground is warm. 

Don't let com get too ripe before cutting. 

Don't plant corn in succession on the same field. 

Don't forget that commercial fertilizers will not pay so well on 
corn as they will on earlier planted crops. 

Don't plant varieties nearer than 300 feet, if you want to keep 
them separate. 

Don't let the weeds get the start of you. 

Don't forget that deep cultivating will injure the crop. 

Don't forget to plant a pumpkin seed in every fourth hill, if you 
want a good feed to fatten a cow. 

Don't let your corn spoil after you get it husked. 

Don 't forget that clover turned under makes a good fertilizer for 
corn or for any other crop. 



OATS. 

What are the essentials for a good crop of oats? 

1 . A well prepared seed bed ; 

2. Good seed; 

3. An early start in the spring. 

How should the ground he fitted for oats? 

It should be well plowed and thoroughly harrowed. An inch, or 
two, of fine dirt with hard, unbroken soil beneath is not a good seed 
bed for any crop. Mellow it deep. Ground cannot be properly fitted 
with a peg-tooth drag. Oats respond readily to fertilizers ; but care 
should be taken not to use too much nitrogen, as it causes a too rank 
growth of straw, Oats do best in a cool, moist climate and on rather 
heavy soil. 

What care should he used in selecting seed oats? 

Seed oats should be well cleaned, and all light and immature 
grains removed. It is the heavy oats that produce the big yield. They 
should weigh not less than forty-five pounds to the bushel. It is always 
well to treat the seed for smut, as described in another chapter. 

Why is it important to soiv oats early? 

Oats need a great deal of moisture, especially at ripening time. 
If sown late, the}^ might have to ripen in a dry spell, and a poor crop 
would be the result. 



44 THE F A R M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

When sJiould oats be cut? 

Oats should be cut just as the grain has passed the milk stage, 
or when the field is about one-half yellow. If left until dead ripe, the 
grain will not weigh so much to the bushel and the straw will be of 
poorer quality. 

On well prepared soil oats yield from forty to sixty bushels per 
acre. There is no great difference in varieties. 

What may he said of oats as a stock food? 

Whole oats is one of the best feeds for horses ; while ground oats, 
especially if mixed with other grains, make an excellent feed for nearly 
all other kinds of stock. Its straw is better for stock than that of any 
of the other cereals. 

Flow should oats be sown? 

Drilling is the most satisfactory method of sowing oats. This 
gives them an even depth and they are more thoroughly covered. From 
two to two and one-half bushels per acre should be sown. 

Wliat may be said, of oats as a nurse crop? 

Oats are considered a good nurse crop, although wheat and bar- 
ley are better. The oats cover the ground too thickly and require so 
much moisture that the seeding is often killed out. 



WHEAT. 

What different types of wheat are raised? 

Soft winter wheat, semi-hard winter wheat, hard winter wheat, 
soft spring wheat, hard spring wheat and macaroni wheat. The hard 
wheat, from which the best flour is made, is raised in Kansas, Ne- 
braska, the northern part of the United States and Canada. The 
softer varieties are raised in the more humid section of the East. 

What soil is bf.'if for wheat ? 

Heavy clay loams are best for wheat-raising. The ground should 
be fitted the same as for oats. Wheat, however, is a "finer feeder" 
than oats, so needs a richer soil. The raising of wheat has largely 
been abandoned in many sections of the East. 

When and how should wheat be sown? 

Spring wheat is sown as early in the spring as the ground can be 
worked ; winter wlieat is sown early enough in the fall to get a good 
stand before winter. Wheat is best sown in drills, and usually it will 
pay to apply a fertilizer rich in phosphorus. Sow from six to eight 
pecks to the acre, depending upon the size of the seed. 



USEFUL FACJ\s AND RULES FOR FARMING 45 

BUCKWHEAT. 

WJiat may be said in favor of the huekwheat cropf 

Buckwheat is an easy crop to raise, as it does well on almost any 
kind of soil. The fact that it must be sown later than the other crops, 
in order that its blossoms may "set" in cooler weather, is often an ad- 
vantage to the busy farmer. Buckwheat always finds a ready market 
and the price is advancing every year. It makes a most excellent feed, 
although usually it is more profitable to sell it and buy something 
cheaper. Tt is an excellent crop to precede potatoes, but should not be 
followed by oats or corn. It is useful both as a cover crop and a catch 
crop. 

How should huchwheaf be soum? 

Buckwheat may be drilled in or sown broadcast, about one bushel 
to the acre. It responds readily to fertilizers. 



THE HAY CROP. 

What is the best meadoiv eirass? 

Timothy is by far the best meadow grass tor the North. Clear 
timothy makes an excellent roughage for horses; and, mixed with 
clover, it is an excellent feed for cattle or sheep. 

When should timothy he cut? 

Cut timothy just as it begins to blossom; i.e., when the pollen 
begins to appear on the heads. If allowed to get too ripe, it becomes 
woody, unpalatable for the stock and the succeeding crop is injured. 
This rule also applies to clover which should be cut as soon as it is 
in bloom. 

THE CLOVERS. 

What are the most important clovers for the northern farmer? 
White, red, alsike, crimson and sweet. 

Describe white clover. 

White clover is a low trailing perennial with small white blossoms. 
It is too low for meadows, but should be found in every pasture 
mixture, as it spreads rapidly and will often cover the ground where 
other feed is lacking. Its blossoms supply the best h.oney for bees. 

Describe red clover. 

Red clover (medium and mammoth) is, with the exception of 
alfalfa, the most important legume for the northern farmer. It 
supplies nitrogen to the soil, its long roots furnish humus, and, as a 
feed, it helps to balance timothy which has a much too wide nutritive 
ratio. Red clover ripens with timothy, which makes it a favorite with 
farmers. It lasts about two years; and, if sown alone, will yield two 



46 TEE F AR M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

crops in a season. Turned under for green manure, clover makes a 
better fertilizer than can be purchased. No progressive farmer will 
attempt to get along without it. Sow the seed in the spring. 

What is alsike clover? 

Alsike clover is a shorter and more slender variety than the red 
clovers and is somewhat earlier, which works to its disadvantage when 
sown with timothy. It makes a finer hay than do the red varieties, but 
it is not so good a yielder. Its merits seems to lie in the fact that it 
will often succeed on soils where the other varieties will not grow. 

What is crimson clover? 

Crimson clover is an annual which should be sown in the fall. It 
is often sown as a catch crop after early potatoes or as a cover crop 
in orchards. It sometimes proves very valuable for early pasture. 
About 15 pounds to the acre is used, when sown alone. It requires 
good soil, needs considerable heat and does best south of the Ohio 
River. 

What may be said of the merits of sweet clover? 

Sweet clover, found growing wild in many sections of the North, 
is now becoming popular as a remarkable soil builder and as a feed 
for stock. Its roots seem to be a better harbor for nitrogen forming 
bacteria than either clover or alfalfa. It starts early in the spring 
and will afford feed for twice as many cows per acre as will any other 
crop. Cattle fed on it never bloat. It will grow on poor soil under 
conditions where clover and alfalfa would fail. Sow seed at the rate 
of fifteen pounds per acre. Seed and further directions for growing 
may be had from A. A. Berry Seed Co., Clarinda, Iowa, or of E. 
Barton, Falmouth, Ky. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 47 



STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 

Mention some of the secrets of successful strawberry culture. 

If there is any secret of successful strawberry culture it is the 
secret of plant selection, using the mother plants which show a ten- 
dency to develop a heavier crown system and fruit-producing organ- 
ism than other plants. This not only prevents varieties from deter- 
iorating, but it also increases the fruitfulness of the variety. 

What kind of soil is best adapted to strawberries? 

Any soil that will produce flowers, vegetables or common farm 
crops will also produce strawberries. Certain kinds of soils are not 
so important as the manner in which the soil is prepared. If I were 
to have a preference of soils, I would select sandy loam, or mellow clay 
loam, not because these soils will grow better strawberries, but because 
they are more easily worked. 

How sJioidd a field be prepared for strawberries? 

In preparing soil for strawberry plants it should be plowed late 
in the fall, and during the winter months it should be covered with 
manure, using at the rate of fifteen to twenty tons per acre, the quan- 
tities of manure used depending upon the' present condition of the 
soil. In the spring this manure should be thoroughly mixed with 
the soil by discs, spring tooth harrow and such tools. If the soil is 
deficient in phosphorus, it should have an application of 400 pounds 
of bone meal applied to each acre and thoroughly worked into the soil 
in connection with the manure. Phosphorus is the element which aids 
plants m assimilating other ingredients which they could not use 
without the phosphorus. This element also aids in bringing plants 
into full maturity. About the only way a farmer may intelligently 
determine whether or not his soil requires an application of' phos- 
phorus is by the crops it produces. If his soil has been giving satis- 
factory yields, it is more than likely that it contains sufficient phos- 
phorus to build up a satisfactory crop of strawberries. 

Mention some of the desirable varieties of strawberries. 

There is a large number of varieties of strawberries, all of which 
do well m some particular locality. The most dependable varieties 
are those which have been tested throughout the United States and 
have been found to be satisfactory in all classes of soil and under all 
climatic conditions. These varieties are Early Ozark Warfield Glen 
Mary Wilham Belt, Senator Dunlap, Haverland, Brandywine, Sample 
and Chesapeake. This list of varieties will give the grower berries 
from the very earliest to the latest. They are all productive varieties 
and are universally popular. 

When should strawberries be set? 

_ The best time to set strawberry plants is just as early in the 
spring as soil will permit. During the early spring months straw- 



48 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

berry plants are in a dormant condition ; the roots are calloused and 
when properly pruned will send out feeding roots and begin growing 
immediately. Fall planting is undesirable for the simple fact that 
during the fall months plants are in a green, succulent, growing con- 
dition and are perfecting their fruit-bud system, and to transfer them 
at this time is a greater shock upon the plants than would be the case 
if they were transferred in the spring during their dormant period. 

Give directions for setting strawberry plants. 

Strawberry plants should be pruned before setting. The tip ends 
of the roots should be cut off with shears or a sharp knife. The roots 
of the plants should extend straight down into the opening which is 
niade in the soil for them, and the soil should be pressed up against the 
roots very firmly. The crown or body of the plant should extend just 
above the surface of the soil, as it is from this crown runners form, 
which are important in the way of filling in the row to suit the grower. 

What care should he given the plants the first year? 

The first year plants are set they should liave thorough cultural 
methods. The first cultivation should be given immediately after 
plants are set, and these cultivations should be repeated every week 
or ten days throughout a dry season, and cultivation always should be 
done as soon after each rain as the soil will permit. Shallow cultiva- 
tion is preferable, because the roots of strawberry plants work near 
the surface and it isn't good practice to break any of these feeding 
roots. Two weeks after plants are set they begin to blossom. These 
flowers should be picked off, which will relieve the plant from under- 
going the strain of pollen secretion. To allow a plant to fruit 
soon after it has been set greatly weakens the plant and often causes 
it to die. In a few weeks after plants are set runner plants will 
begin to form. These runner plants should be allowed to set directly 
in line with the original row and along each side of the rows until 
each row of plants is about 12 or 15 inches wide. Runners which 
form after the row has been made, should be pulled off and treated 
the same as weeds. Cultivation should continue until late in the fall, 
and during the early winter the plants should be mulched with straw 
or some coarse material. 

What care should he given the plants the second year? 

After plants have fruited their first crop the vines should be 
mowed off and if weather conditions are favorable the mulching, to- 
gether with the old foliage should be burned. This destroys any in- 
sects or fungus spores which may be present. When I speak of fa- 
vorable weather conditions I refer to such conditions as will permit 
the foliage to dry, so that it will burn quickly. But should it rain 
soon after the vines are mowed off, it would prevent the burning for 
several dnys, and in this case the plants would be sending up a new 
growth, which would be injured by burning. In this event the mulch- 
ing and old foliage should be raked into piles and hauled away. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOB FARMING 49 

Is it necessary to spray straivherry plants? 

It isn't necessary to spray strawberry plants unless some insects 
are working upon the foliage. Should insects be present, a spraying 
of arsenate of lead should be applied at once, using three pounds of 
the arsenate of lead to fifty gallons of water, or seven ounces of Paris 
green to fifty gallons of water. For smaller quantities of spraying 
material use the insecticides according to the amount required for 
the patch of plants which is to be sprayed. Should the plants be 
affected by any fungus spores, such as leaf spot, blight or mildew, 
they should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, using what is known 
as the 4-4-40 solution. 

How may the farmer get a good price for his strawherries? 

If a farmer wishes to secure the top-notch price for strawberries, 
he must grow the kind of fruit that will put him in a class by him- 
self and the only way to accomplish this is to set a strain of plants 
that are so perfectly developed in their fruit-producing organisms as 
to make it possible for them to produce berries of the fancy kind. 
In picking the berries they should be picked so that each berry will 
retain its full calyx and a piece of the stem. This calyx and stem 
will prevent air from getting into the berry, which will aid it in 
holding its shape and color nicely. The berries should be graded when 
picked, putting fancy berries and second-grade berries by themselves. 
Then arrange the top of each box in an attractive way. If these 
simple rules are followed, the farmer should have no trouble in 
getting a price for his berries that will give him a larger return than 
he could get from any other crop. 

Hoiv often should new stratvherry plants he set? 

Strawberry plants should not be allowed to fruit for more than 
two seasons. Therefore, a new field of plants should be set every other 
year. When plants are allowed to fruit for three or four years, they 
become greatly deteriorated and conditions are made favorable for 
insects and fungi. In some districts where strawberry plants have 
been allowed to fruit for a number of years insects are doing con- 
siderable damage and causing much alarm. 

Is it profitahle to raise your own plants? 

Only a few farmers and fruit growers find it profitable to grow 
their own plants. Growing strawberry plants and nursery stock of 
all kinds is a work which requires deep thought and great care and 
unless this work is carried on along scientific lines it isn't profitable. 
I certainly would not advise anyone to grow strawberry plants from 
the plants which are allowed to fruit. This is very bad practice and 
always results in a loss, because when plants are taken up from the 
fruiting bed the roots of the plants which are left for fruiting are 
interfered with, which naturally causes a loss of fruit. 



50 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

What care should he given the plants when they are first received f 

When plants are first received from the nursery the lid from the 
plant crates should be removed and the crate set into a cool cellar 
or cave, providing conditions will permit the grower to set plants 
^thin a day or two of their receipt. If for any reason the plants can- 
not be set for several days after they arrive, a trench should be dug 
in a shad}^ place and the plants heeled in. This work should be done 
in the cool of the evening, and the soil where the plants are heeled 
in should be thoroughly soaked, and the plants should be watered every 
evening until they can be transferred to the field. 

What is meant hij "male" a')id ''female" strawberry plants? 

A male variety develops Mowers which have both male and female 
organs. The center pistil cones of the flowers are surrounded with 
anthers' or male organs, which are filled with pollen. When these 
anthers become ripe they burst and the pollen is distributed over the 
pistils at the receiving point and carried into the ovaries, which causes 
the development of seeds, around which is formed the fleshy part of 
the berry. The female varieties produce flowers of a strictly female 
character, which develop only the pistil cones. The flowers of these 
varieties must receive their pollen from male varieties. Therefore, 
all farmers and fruit growers should bear in mind that the female 
varieties should be set in rows between rows of male varieties. A 
mistake at this point will cause not only a small yield of fruit, but 
berries of ill-shape with hard, undeveloped ends. 

How far apart should strawberry plants he set? 

The distance rows should be made apart will depend entirely 
upon the system growers propose following. The most popular sys- 
tem for growing strawberries is what is known as the double-hedge- 
row or narrow-matted row. Where this system is followed the rows 
should be made three feet apart and plants set two feet apart in the 
rows. These plants should be allowed to make enough runners to fill 
in the vacancies between the original plants and enough runners to 
form on both sides of the rows until the rows are about 12 to 15 inches 
wide. This system requires 7.250 plants per acre. 

Mention some causes of failure in strawberry raising. 

1. Neglecting to keep out the weeds and grass. 

2. Starting new fields from plants taken from worn-out fruiting 
beds. 

3. Lack of thorough and systematic cultivation. 

4. Failure to burn over the old bed before starting it anew. 

5. Failure to spray properly, if necessary. 

6. Neglect to prepare a rich, mellow seed bed. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 51 



RASPBERRIES. 

What is the best soil for raspberries f 

The raspberry prefers a sandy or light clay loam on a cool slope, 
if possible. The soil should be fertile, well drained and contain plenty 
of humus. 

What are the leading commercial varieties of red raspberries? 
Cuthbert, Marlboro, Golden Queen, Shaffer and Columbian. 

When and how should red raspberry plants be set? 

Set early in the spring from six to eight inches deep, so that the 
roots will be well covered. If a large acreage, set in rows nine feet 
apart and three feet apart in the rows. This will permit the use of 
the manure spreader and give ample room for cultivation. If only a 
small patch is to be set, the rows may be as close as six feet. 

Hoiv should red raspberries be cared for? 

Cultivate thoroughly and keep free from weeds. One row of 
tomatoes or two of any other crop may be planted between the rows 
the first year. _ When the plants are about two and one-half feet high, 
pinch off the tips to thicken the stalks and encourage branching. The 
plants will bear the second year. As soon as the crop has been picked, 
the bearing wood may be cut out and removed. The plants increase 
by suckers which will come up very thickly. Keep them cut between 
the rows, leaving a narrow row about six inches wide for next season's 
crop. In the spring cut from this row all weak and winter-killed 
canes and prune the other back to about three cjnd one-half feet. 

What is the best fertilizer for red raspberries? 

Nothing is better than well rotted barn-yard manure applied with 
a manure spreader. Ashes and hen manure are very good, as are also 
muriate of potash and ground bone. 

When should red raspberries be cultivated? 

Begin to cultivate in the spring as soon as the soil will permit. 
Care should be taken not to cultivate too deep. Keep the weeds down 
and the suckers back. Good cultivation and plenty of fertilizer bring 
the big berries. 

How much may be realized from an acre of red raspberries? 

This will depend upon the market, but sales may be counted upon 
to run from $100 to $300 per acre. Growers usually give two cents 
per quart for picking. Marketing in pint baskets is now becoming 
popular, since the berries do not settle so muck and the price is usually 
a little higher. 



52 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

How should black raspberries he set and cared for? 

Black raspberries may be set the same as red ones. They propa- 
gate from the tips which bend over and take root in the soil. To pre- 
vent this the tips should be pinched off when they are about three 
and one-half feet high. Some varieties of black raspberries have the 
habit, the first year, of trailing on the ground. These long vines should 
be kept in the rows; and when the tips begin to spread out and look 
yellow they may be covered for new plants. They will take root and 
the old stalk may be cut away in the spring. Black raspberries may 
be kept in hills. As with the reds, the bearing wood may be cut out 
as soon as the crop is gathered. All old wood should be piled and 
burned. 

What are the leading varieties of black raspberries? 

Gregg, Black Diamond, Cumberland, Kansas and Plum Farmer. 

How much may be realized from, an acre of black raspberries? 

If good care has been taken of the field, black raspberries may 
prove even more profitable than red ones. As high as $500 has been 
realized from an acre, but this is exceptional. 

What are the leading varieties of blackberries? 

Blowers, Snyder, Eldorado, Lawton, Mersereau. Rathbun. Erie 
and Ward. 

How should blackberries be set and cared for? 

Set same as red raspberries. Keep well cultivated and pinch 
off tips when five or six feet high. Thin out suckers same as for reds 
and remove old wood when through bearing. 

What disease often attacks blackberries and how may it be eradicated? 
Often blackberries are attacked by the "red rust," which may 
be recognized by its resemblance to a red dust. The leaves and stalks 
turn pale, wither and die. . There is no known cure for this disease. 
Dig the diseased plants up and bum them. 



EASPBEERY DON'TS, 

Don't use soiled baskets. 

Don't employ poor pickers. 

Don't set out more than you can take care of. 

Don't wait until the buds start before setting out in the spring. 

Don't spoil your market by putting poor berries on the bottom. 

Don't neglect to fertilize and cultivate, if you want a good crop. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 53 



CURRANTS. 

What are the best varieties of currant sf 

Wilder, Cherry, Red Cross, Pomona, Fay's Prolific and Perfec- 
tion. For a general purpose currant, the writer prefei^s the Wilder 
to all other varieties. It is large, a good yielder, of good flavor and 
hangs well on the bushes after ripening. The bunches do not dwindle 
down to small fruit at the point, as is a characteristic of several other 
varieties. 

What care do currants need? 

Currants require about the same care as raspberries. Grood crops 
need not be expected unless the bushes have been well cultivated and 
fertilized. They should be set in rows six feet apart each way. 

What pruning do currants require f 

A small part of the old wood should be removed each year during 
the dormant period. As soon as the leaves start in the spring cut out 
all sickly and dead canes and burn them. Borers are probably in 
them, and in this way they may be kept in check. 

Bow are currants propagated? 

Currants are propagated by layering or by cuttings. To propa- 
gate by layering, bend down, in the spring, strong, vigorous branches 
and partially cover them with dirt. Roots will start at the points. 
In the fall the branches may be separated from the parent plants 
and a new plant started for every set of roots. 

What enemies prey upon currants and^ how may they he destroyed? 

Stalk borers, currant worms and white lice. To prevent the stalk 
borers, cut and burn all dead stalks as soon as they appear. To kill 
the currant worms sprinkle with fresh powdered hellebore in the morn- 
ing while the dew is on. Currants must be watched closely for the ap- 
pearance of worms. If not killed as soon as they appear, they will 
soon strip the bushes of their leaves and destroy the crop. If there 
are too many bushes to be dusted conveniently, they may be sprayed 
with a solution of hellebore, using one ounce of the powder to ten 
quarts of water. 

The lice, which work under the leaves and cause them to puff up 
in red spots, may be destroyed by spraying with a tobacco solution 
or with a dilute solution of wliale oil soap. For these insects it will 
be necessary to shoot the spray up under the leaves. 



CURRANT DON'TS. 
Don't let the worms get the start of you. 



54 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



MARKET GARDENING. 

What should he the first precaution when starting in the husiness of 

market gardening? 

Be sure that there will be a market for what you raise. The 
art of finding markets and getting good prices ranks equal in im- 
portance with the ability to grow good vegetables. It has often been 
said of a gardener: "He knows how to raise good stuff, but does not 
know how to sell it." While all produce may be sent to commission 
men in nearby cities, the alert producer will contract with hotels, 
restaurants and boarding houses for considerable above the wholesale 
prices. 

What kind of soil is adapted to market gardening ? 

Deep, loamy soil, well drained and sloping toward th« south. In 
other words, a market gardener must have what is known as "early 
land" — land that can be plowed early in the spring and in which 
seeds will germinate and grow before ordinary agricultural land can 
be worked. 

How should the market gardener's land he fitted for crops? 

It should be rich and mellow. Deep plowing and thorough tillage 
before planting are absolutely necessary for success. 

Give some of the general rules for planting market garden crops. 

Always plant in rows so that cultivation may be done either with 
a horse or hand cultivator. The market gardener will have on his 
hands a constant fight with weeds. If he has plenty of land, it will 
be best to plant so that all can be cultivated with a horse. The direc- 
tion on seed packages give distances at which the plants will mature, 
but not the most convenient distances for working. 

In what order may vegetahles he planted? 

Lettuce, onions, cabbages, radishes and beets may be planted as 
soon as the condition of the ground will permit. Beans, vines and com 
should not be planted until the ground is warm and all danger of frost 
is over. 

What is the hest fertilizer for the market gardener? 

As with nearly all crops, vegetables do the best with well rotted 
stable manure. If this can not be had, a commercial fertilizer rich in 
nitrogen should be used. 

Give directions for raising heets for market. 

Sow only the early red turnip varieties. The seed may be sown 
by hand or with hand drills in rows at least 20 inches apart. The seed 
should be covered about one-half an inch deep. When the plants are 
about two inches high, thin to three inches. Keep the weeds down. 
When the beets arc 2 to 3 inches in diameter they are ready for market. 



USPJFUL FACTS AND JWLEti FOR FARMJXCr 55 

Pull, wash and remove all dead leaves. Tie in bundles of three each. 
The price ranges from 15 cents to 30 cents per dozen bunches, accord- 
ing to season and supply. 

(live directions for raising onions for market. 

Use sets and plant in rows 20 inches apart, half an inch deep and 
abont tw^o inches apart in the row. When ready for market, cut off 
the fibrous roots, pull off the outer discolored sheath and tie in 
bundles of four. The price ranges about the same as for beets, 
while the work of preparing for market is much less. 

Ilo\r sliould cucumbers he planted? 

In hills six feet apart each way. Dig a hollow, throw in one or two 
shovelfuls of rotted manure, or a couple of handfuls of phosphate, mix 
well with the earth, cover with fine dirt and plant 15 or 20 seeds cover- 
ing 14 inch deep. After the plants are well started and safe from 
bugs, thin to four or five of the best plants in a hill. This rule may 
be followed for squashes and melons. 

Tlow may vines he kept free from striped hugs? 

If only a few vines are raised, get soap or craker boxes, knock out 
the bottoms, cover with mosquito netting or wire door screen and place 
over the hills. Boxes alone, by shutting off the cold wind, w411 cause 
the vines to make a better growth than they otherwise would. If boxes 
can not be used, the vines may be sprayed with an arsenate of lead 
solution, or sprinkled with old slaked lime, or common road dust. 

How should a garden he cared for in a very dry season? 

Keep a tine dry mulch of dirt on the surface, same as for potatoes 
and corn. Do not water the vegetables. Artificial watering has a 
tendency to bring the roots toward the moisture on the surface ; and 
unless the practice is kept up constantly and thoroughly, it will do 
more harm than good. 

WJ(at are some of the directions for raising cahhages? 

Early cabbages should be started in a seed bed as early as the 
ground can be worked. When they are five or six inches high they 
may be transplanted in rows three feet apart and 20 inches apart in 
the rows. This gives ample space for cultivation with a horse; in 
fact, many growers plant as close as two feet. Cabbages are heavy 
feeders and the ground should be rich to get good results. Late cab- 
bages may be sown three or four weeks later than the early ones. 

What must he done to protect the cahhages from cahhage worms? 

Dust the cabbages with ''Slug Shot" or "Bug Death" as soon as 
the worms are hatched. It will be necessary to go over the field two 
or three times during the season. Devices for applying the powder 
may be purchased of any seed firm. 



56 TEE F AB M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

What is club root and how may it he prevented? 

Club root {Plasmodiophora hrassicae), also known as "club foot" 
and "clump foot," is a disease tbat affects the roots of cabbages causing 
them to swell up in knots and bunches. The leaves of the plant gradu- 
ally wither and then die. Turnips, cauliflowers, brussels sprouts, kale, 
radishes, kohl-rabi and rutabagas are often affected by club root, but 
not so badly as cabbages. The disease is caused by a micro-organism 
which is not a bacterium nor a fungus, but a slime mold. There is no 
sure preventive, but the following measures are recommended: 

1. Be sure to start the young seedling in unaffected soil. 

2. On small plots sulphur may be often used with very satis- 
factory results. 

3. Quick lime at the rate of 75 bushels to the acre, applied the fall 
before, will be beneficial. 

4. All infected leaves and roots should be collected and burned. 

5. Don't raise cabbages successively on the same field. The 
spores of the disease have great vitality and will live in the ground 
from five to ten years. 

6. Never feed the diseased parts to animals whose manure is 
used on the soil. 

7. If purchasing stable manure, see that it is free from the spores 
of the disease. 

What quick-growing fruit may he set to add to the income from the 

garden? 

Peaches, plums, dwarf pears, raspberries, gooseberries and cur- 
rants. 

What are some of the hest varieties of peaches for the North f 

Early varieties: Greensboro, (> raves, Champion, Early Rivers. 

and Early Crawford. 

Later varieties : Elberta, Fitzgerald, Niagara, Late Crawford, 

and Hale. 

What is leaf curl and how may it he controlled? 

Soon after the peach leaves come out in the spring they are apt 
to curl up and become twisted into almost shapeless massses. The con- 
dition is caused by a fungus which works in the inside of the leaves. 
Leaf curl can be satisfactorily controlled by spraying the trees, while 
dormant, with lime-sulphur solution, diluted at the rate of 1 to 10, or 
with bordeaux mixture of the 5-5-50 formula. There are two com- 
mon causes of failure: (1) The spraying is not done early enough, 
and (2) it is not done thoroughly. When the buds begin to break, 
it is too late to spray for leaf curl. The spraying must be done so 
thoroughly as to cover the branches on all sides. 

How may peach borers be controlled? 

Dig out with a sharp knife, or kill by thrusting a wire into the 
hole. Spray around the base of the tree with bordeaux mixture to 
which arsenate of lead has been added. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 57 



FLOWERS. 

What are the best bulbs for fall planting? 

Lilies, nareissus, tulips, jonquils, seyllas, snowdrops, crocuses and 
anemones. 

When should these bulbs be set? 

Set bulbs any time between September and December. 
How deep should bulbs be set and hoiv far apart? 

Lilies, 12 inches apart each way, top of bulb to be 6 inches deep ; 
narcissus, 6 to 12 inches apart, 4 inches deep ; tulips, 4 inches apart! 
3 inches deep; jonquils, 6 inches apart, 3 inches deep; seyllas, 3 
inches apart, 2 inches deep ; snowdrops, 2 inches apart, 2 inches deep ; 
crocuses, 2 inches apart, 2 inches deep ; anemones, 4 to 6 inches apart' 
1 inch deep. ' 

What flowers may be raised profitably by farmers for commercial, 
purposes? 

Asters, gladioli, peonies, sweet peas and a few others. 
(rive directions for raising asters. 

Asters must be started in a green house, the seeds being planted 
about the middle of March. When all danger of frost is over they 
may be transplanted in the open ground, about 18 inches apart. Rich, 
warm, sandy loam, containing plenty of humus is necessary for the 
best results. Barnyard manure should be spaded or plowed under 
the year before. Do not put manure in the hill. 

How shoidd asters be prepared for market? 

They should be cut with as long stems as possible. Pull off the 
lower leaves and tie in bunches of twenty-five each. Begin packing 
by making a pillow of crushed newspapers on which the blossoms 
are laid, the stems resting on the bottom of the box. Begin the next 
layer a little farther back, and so on until the box is full. Put in 
the top of the box, before nailing on the cover, a paper with your 
name, address and the number of bunches. 

Where may asters be sold and at ivhat price? 

They may be shipped to the flower commission men whose names 
are listed in this book. They bring from 10 cents to 25 cents a 
bunch, according to quality and season. Often contracts may be made 
with large hotels to supply their tables with bouquets for the summer 
season. 

What variety of asters are most salable? 

For early asters, queen of the market and break of day are the 
best ; for late varieties, any of the large branching varieties are good. 
Only white or pink asters should be raised for market. The heads 
should be full, showing no yellow centers. 



58 TEE F AR M E E 8' GUIDE BOOK 

Wliat cautions should he observed in raising alters? 

Look out for the black aster bugs which often destroy the crop. 
They may be controlled by dusting with slug shot, or by knocking 
off into a pan of kerosene or hot water. Do not put manure in the 
hills and do not try to start teo many in the boxes ; if too crowded, 
they are apt to wither at the base of the stems and die. 

What are the cultural directions for stvcet peas? 

Select a location where the peas will receive the sun all day. Dig 
a trench about ten inches deep and a foot wide, place four inches 
of well-rotted manure in the bottom and pack firmly. On top of this 
place two inches of mellow soil, plant the peas in a row about one inch 
apart and cover four inches deep with mellow dirt. Before the peas 
are up a trellice should be made for them. Good stout brush is ideal 
for this purpose ; but if this is not at hand, wire netting or strings may 
be used. As the vines climb the trellice, a mulch should be filled in 
around them to prevent drying out. Sweet peas need much moisture 
and should be watered freely. 

When shoidd sweet peas he planted f 

Plant sweet peas in the spring just as soon as the frost is out of 
the ground. They can not be planted too early. 
Horv shoidd siveet peas he prepared for market f 

City markets use only the light colored varieties of sweet peas, 
white, cream, or light pink. They must be perfectly fresh, have long 
stems and be tied in bunches of twenty-five each. The stems are 
usually tied with a white thread, six or seven times around, and the 
ends cut even. The blossoms should be picked every other day ; if they 
are not picked, pods will develop and the vines will stop blooming. 

What pests prey upon sweet peas? 

Cutworms and soft-bodied lice are the worst enemies of sweet 
peas. Lime will help to keep the cutworms away, or they may be fed 
poisoned bran, as explained under "Insecticides." The lice may be 
controlled by spraying the vines with a tobacco or a whale oil soap 
solution. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 59 



BEES AND BEE-KEEPING. 

Where can bees he kept? 

There are few places in the country where one or more colonies 
of bees can not make honey. It is true that the natural surround- 
ings may be unfavorable to the bees, but one who has had no experi- 
ence is often astonished as to distance bees will go in search of the 
nectar of the flowers. In almost every large city there are some bee 
keepers who have bees right in the heart of the city, either in back 
lots or on the roof of buildings. Ordinarily, bees will go from one 
to three miles in search of nectar, but if there is none nearer they 
will go much further. There are cases on record of bees going seven 
miles from home. 

What must he planted for hees to ivork onf 

Strange as it may seem, it usually does not pay to plant anything 
that is valuable only for the honey unless waste places such as road- 
sides or fence corners can be utilized that would be of no value in 
any other way. Very often the natural sources of nectar in a locality 
can be augmented by the sowing of sweet clover seed, and since this 
is becoming to be known as a valuable forage instead of a pest or 
weed, as it was formerly called, there is no question but that it pays 
to grow sweet clover for hay and thus secure some additional honey 
of fine quality, also. However, it must be remembered that each 
blossom yields only a small amount of nectar, henee there must be 
hundreds of acres of any such plant before any great difference will 
be noticed in the surplus honey produced if there are very many bees 
in the locality. However, as stated first, almost every locality has 
enough natural sources of nectar for supporting one or more col- 
onies without any artificial pasturage. 

Since alfalfa clover and alsike clover are being grown more and 
more even by the farmers of the East, there is every reason to sup- 
pose that there will be more honey produced from these sources in 
the future than ever before. 

// the honey-flow is light can sugar syrup he fed and, the honey thns 

produced he placed, on the market? 

Sugar syrup can be fed and honey produced from it, but strictly 
speaking, such a product does not conform t(f the requirements of the 
Pure Food Law. There need be no fear of such an article being put 
on the market, for the bees consume so much syrup in the process 
that the price received for the honey would not begin to pay for the 
sugar and the labor of feeeding. Sugar syrup is often fed, however, 
to supply winter stores, for it nikkes a safer winter food than many 
of the honeys gathered late in the fall that are rather strong in flavor. 

Do hees do well in a fruit country? 

The fruit trees alone, unless there are acres and acres of them, 
do not usually furnish enough honey to be noticeable in the surplus 



60 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

supply secured, but of course there are many exceptions to this in 
localities where fruit is grown extensively. In this connection, how- 
ever, it might be well to state that bees are a necessity in a fruit 
growing locality, for without their aid the blossoms do not set, that is 
the cross fertilization is not accomplished. It is true that other insects 
and the wind distribute the pollen to a certain extent and thus 
fertilize the blossoms, but at the same time, if there are no bees at all 
a great many of the blossoms will not bear fruit. A simple experi- 
ment may be tried to prove this : Cover a branch of blossoms with 
coarse mosquito netting which will just prevent the bees from get- 
ting through, and it will be found that the blossoms on this branch 
will not bear fruit, even though the netting is removed as soon as the 
petals fall. 

Do hees work on ripe fruit and spoil itf 

If the skin of the fruit has been punctured by some other insect 
or by birds, it is true that the bees will work on the pulp and juice of 
the fruit thus exposed, but such fruit would be unfit for market any- 
way, hence the bees after all do no real harm. Bees by themselves 
alone can not possibly puncture the skin of fruit. Sound fruit, if 
kept carefully guarded from birds and other insects, will be un- 
touched by the bees. This has been demonstrated over and over 
again. 

Mow many colonies of hees can one man care fort 

This depends on the man and so this question can not be 
definitely answered any more than one could positively say how 
many acres of land one man could farm. However, one man with a 
little help in the busiest part of the season can usually care for as 
many as five hundred colonies, if he is experienced. Colonies of 
bees, in order to produce good results, must be properly taken care 
of. A thousand weak colonies not in good condition for producing 
surplus honey by the time the main honey-fiow opens, will not pro- 
duce as much as ten colonies that are very strong and in the very 
best condition at the time the main flow begins. 

Is it possible to remove hees from Jiollow trees or the walls of a 
huildingf 

Yes, this may be done without trouble, but the easiest way is to 
cut down the tree or r«move some of the siding of the building, as 
the case may be; but if this is impractical a device known as a bee 
escape may be placed over the opening or entrance which will allow 
the bees to pass out but will prevent them from going back again. 
If a hive containing comb is arranged close to the opening on the out- 
side, all the bees may be secured in this way, or practically all of 
them except the queen. A new queen will have to be on hand and 
introduced to the bees. Most of the modern books on bees describe 
the various processes of transferring bees from trees or buildings into 
hives, so that one who is desirous to start in this way need have no 
particular difficulty. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 61 



What profit can reasonably he expected? 

As much as $10.00 per colony has been secured, but this is con- 
siderably above the average. $2.00 to $3.00 a colony would be a 
safe figure. 

Hoiv much increase can he expected in a yearf 

If natural swarming is allowed, a fifty per cent increase is per- 
haps an average. No colony should be allowed to swarm more than 
once, for the parent colony is too greatly reduced in strength if more 
than one normal swarm issues. Professional bee keepers usually 
make their increase artificially, however, and it is not at all a dif- 
ficult matter to double the number of colonies in a year. In fact, 
an expert, when all conditions are favorable, can increase a three- 
frame nucleus which is only about one-third the size of an ordinary 
colony into ten full size colonies by fall, but of course this is be- 
yond the reach of the average amateur. 

Will heating tin pans, ringi^ig hells, etc., stop sivarms? 

No. Almost every swarm immediately after it issues will soon 
cluster anyway at some convenient point until the bees get their bear- 
ings. How the custom of beating tin pans, etc., started no one knows. 
If a swarm is inclined to make for the woods at once, the bees can 
be made to cluster very quickly if a good spray pump is at hand for 
a good drenching so wets their wings that they are forced to cluster 
until they can dry off. 

What kind of hees are the hest? 

There are not as many different varieties of bees as of poultry, 
for instance, owing to the fact that since the mating of the queens 
and drones takes place in the air, the male parentage can not be con- 
trolled, hence if a number of different varieties of bees were kept in 
the same yard they would soon be hopelessly mixed up and a mongrel 
bee be the result. The Italian bees are preferred by the majority of 
bee keepers in this country, although the Carniolan bees are begin- 
ning to be used somewhat, as are also the Caucasians. 

How many kinds of hees are there in a colony f 

During the early part of the summer a normal colony consists 
of one queen, the only perfect female in the hive — several hundred 
or thousand drones (the male bee) — and anywhere from twenty to 
fifty thousand worker bees, which are the undeveloped female. The 
queen is not the ruler of the hive as was formerly supposed, but is 
simply the mother — she lays the eggs. A good prolific queen in the 
height of the season will lay from two to four thousand eggs per 
day, or nearly twice her own weight in twenty-four hours. Con- 
tinual feeding by the worker bees enables her to do this. The drone 
is the male bee and he has no sting nor any suitable tongue with 
which to work ; hence the drone does no work, not so much because he 
is lazy but because he has no tools to work with nor weapons with 



62 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

which to defend the hive. The workers are stunted females, and as 
their name indicates, they do all the field work such as bringing in 
pollen, nectar, etc. 

Can one who takes care of hees keep from being stung f 

Yes, if necessary, one can so protect himself with a good veil, 
gloves, etc., that there is practically no danger of receiving a sting; 
but practical bee keepers after they have been stung a very few times 
are not bothered very much in this way, for the stings lose their 
affect, that is the system becomes immune to the poison and no bad 
affects, whatsoever follow. 

7s there any danger of bees stinging neighbors or their cattle? 

There is some danger, but at the same time very little. Occa- 
sionally, sweaty cattle or horses if allowed to get in the direct line 
of flight of the bees, will irritate them so that they may be stung, but 
after all, such instances are not the usual thing. If proper precau- 
tions are taken, neighbors need not be annoyed in any way. 

What is meant by ''comb" and ''extracted" honey f 

Comb honey is produced by the bees in small, square boxes and 
is sold in this way just as the bees left it. The extracted honey is the 
liquid honey thrown out of large combs filled by the bees, in a centri- 
fugal honey extractor which works somewhat on the principle of a 
cream separator. That is, the liquid honey is thrown out of the cells, 
leaving the comb as good as ever and it is put back in the hive and 
filled again by the bees. For this reason the extracted honey is 
cheaper as the bees do not need to build new comb each time. 

Which is the more profitable to produce, comb or extracted honey f 

This depends largely upon circumstances. One who has but a 
few colonies had better produce comb honey, for the equipment re- 
quired for extracted honey production is quite expensive and the 
outfit would usually not be warranted for only a very few colonies. 
Professional bee keepers, the majority of them at least, produce ex- 
tracted honey largely. Nearly twice as much of the latter can be 
produced as of comb honey, but at the same time it brings about only 
half as much in the market as comb honey. 

When extracted honey crystallizes is that an indication that it was 

adulterated with sugar f 

No, for almost every kind of pure honey will granulate or 
crystallize in time. Some kinds of honey produced in the south will 
crystallize in only two or three days time, but usually from two to 
six months is required. The honey may be returned to the liquid 
state by heating it gently in hot water. For the very best results the 
water surrounding the dish of water should be no hotter than 140 
degrees. A temperature much higher than this if kept up very long 
will give the honey a burnt flavor. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 6:{ 

WJiat kind of a hive is the best? 

This question can not be answered definitely. Complicated patent 
hives are usually very little if any better than the cheap wooden boxes 
that they are sold to replace. Dealers in bee supplies sell a standard 
ten-frame hive that is preferred by the majority of honey producers, 
but if comb honey is to be produced the upper part of the hive should 
be of a different style than if the bees are run for extracted honey. 

What are the different parts of a bee hive? 

A regular bee hive consists of a tloor or bottom board; a brood 
chamber which contains the ten frames that surround the comb; the 
super that holds the square sections for the surplus honey, and the 
cover. The brood chamber is a plain box usually with notched or 
dove-tailed corners to give added strength, and with the ends of the 
box babbeted at the top to hold the projections of the top bars of the 
frame that surround the comb. The bees are induced to build the 
combs in these frames by means of a sheet of what is known as comb 
foundation that is suspended in tlie middle of each frame, which acts 
as a pattern to enable the bees to build their combs straight. If this 
were not used they might build the comb crosswise of the frame or in 
bunches and clusters, so that it would be impossible to separate one 
comb from another for purposes of inspection. The super or upper 
part of the hive gets its name from the fact that it holds the superabun- 
ance of honey. The modern bee kpeeper does not rob his bees ; that is 
he does not take from them honey that they require for their own food, 
but simply removes the surplus of which there is often ten times as 
much as they could possibly use themselves. 

When bees do not work properly in the super what must be done to 

correct the difficulty? 

If there is a good honey-fiow and still the bees are not storing the 
honey in the super, the chances are that the colony was not strong 
enough in bees to be in good condition when the honey-flow opened. 
Such colonies often do not get in good shape until the main flow is 
over, and of course no surplus honey is then produced. If the queen 
is not prolific this also would cause trouble, for the empty room in the 
brood nest tempts the bees to store the honey there rather than above, 
and when they get into the habit of storing below they do not readily 
change and store the honey above in the super. 

How ca7i the finished honey be removed from the hive? 

The old way was to set the hive over a hole in the ground in which 
there was some burning sulphur, and after the bees were all killed to 
take the honey out with a spade. The modern beekeeper as mentioned 
above, does not remove the honey the bees need but simply takes the 
surplus. A board containing what is called a bee escape, is placed be- 
tween the super and the brood chamber and the bees go down through 
into the lower part and can not get up again. In a few hours they are 
all out of the super and the surplus honey can then be removed without 



64 TEE F AB M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

the knowledge of the bees. There is then no uproar, no stings, no con- 
fusion and no trouble of any kind. 

Cfl/n comb honey he manufactured hy machinery so as not to he told 

from genuine? 

No, this is impossible. Comb honey has never been made by ma- 
chinery and never will be in spite of many newspaper statements to the 
contrary. The A. I. Root Company of Medina, Ohio, in order to show 
conclusively that there is no such thing as manufactured comb honey, 
has, for nearly thirty years, had a standing offer of $1000.00 for a 
single section of comb honey made by machinery that so nearly re- 
sembled the natural product as to deceive the average person. The 
fact that no one has ever been able to claim this money, shows conclu- 
sively that there is no such article on the market. There are plenty of 
reasons why such a feat would be impossible, but lack of space forbids 
the mention of them here. 

Do hees have diseases? 

There are a few diseases of the adult bees such as dysentery, bee 
paralysis (not like paralysis of the human family) ; but the most 
serious diseases are those of the brood such as American or European 
foul brood. These, however, may be easily cured unless the bee keeper 
is so negligent as to allow his whole yard to become diseased before he 
does anything about it. 

What is done with hees during the winter? 

If the colonies are not already in double walled hives the space 
between being filled with shavings or leaves, a winter case may be put 
over the regular hive and packing material put in after which a water 
proof cover is put over the whole thing; or the colonies may be win- 
tered in a cellar which is kept reasonably dark and even in tempera- 
ture. Except in the nothern part of the northern states, however, it 
is usually safer to winter on the summer stand in double walled hives 
or other hives especially packed for the cold weather. It does no harm 
even though the hives be covered with snow, unless the entrances 
should get stopped solid with ice. 

// colonies die through the winter may new swarms the next season 

be put in the same hives? 

If the bees did not die because of the result of the disease foul 
brood, but simply starved or chilled, there is no harm in putting new 
swarms in these same hives. By careful attention however, the winter 
loss may be reduced to a very small per cent. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 65 



THE ORCHARD. 

How can the orchard he made to pay? 

By proper pnmmg, spraying, cultivating, fertilizing and drainage. 

When should the orchard he pruned? 

It has been said that every month in the year is the time to pnine 
orchards, but it is the safest to prune during the winter time when 
the trees are dormant. Hendrick, of the Cornell Experiment Station, 
gives the following "General Facts and Principles," which every fruit 
grower should know : 

1. Winter pruning increases the vigor of the plant. 

2. Summer pruning decreases the vigor of the plant. 

3. Root pruning decreases the vigor of a plant. 

4. Prune weak growing varieties heavily in the winter; strong 
growing sorts, lightly. 

5. Suckers or watersprouts are often the effect of over-pruning. 

6. Heading-in thickens the top. 

7. Checking growth by girdling, notching or twisting may induce 
fruitfulness, but at the expense of vigor. 

8. Heavy pruning of young trees delays fruiting. 

9. All pnming must take into account the habit of growth of the 
tree. 

10. Some fruits bear on this year's wood, others on that of last 
year, and still others on older growths; pruning must take the age of 
bearing wood into account. 

How should old orchards he pruned? 

Do not prune too much at one time. The first year remove little 
more than the dead, diseased and injured limbs and the wT.tersp routs 
from the trunk of large limbs. The next year remove all cross limbs 
tnd thin out small branches so that the sun may enter freely. Cut out 
every limb that touches or rubs another. 

What care should he taken in pruning? 

When entire limbs are removed, cut close to the main trunk. If 
a stub of a limb is left, it will rot and cause a hollow. If surfaces of 
cuts are more than one inch in diameter, they should be painted. Do 
not cut off large limbs unless they are in the way. If they must be 
cut, saw on the under side first. 

When should spraying hegin and ivhat shoidd he used? 

1. Spray before the leaf buds open, using commercial lime-sul- 
phur, one gallon to eight gallons of water. 

2. When the pink of blossoms show, spray again, using one 
gallon of lime-sulphur to forty of water. Add two pounds of arsenate 
of lead for every fifty gallons of solution. 



66 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

3. When two-thirds of the petals have fallen, repeat, and two 
weeks later use same again, 

4. Other spraying solutions are good, Bordeaux being the favor- 
ite of many. It is, however, not so effective as lime-sulphur. Care 
should be taken not to use the solutions too strong. 

How should spraying solutions be applied f 

As a fine spray under considerable pressure. It will readily be 
seen that, in order to make apple raising profitable, the orchard must 
be large enough to justify the purchase of effective spraying apparatus 
and the construction of tanks for the easy and convenient mixing of 
spraying fluids. 

Mention some of the pests that infest the orchard. 

Bud moth, canker worm, codling moth, San Jose scale, oyster 
shell scale, scrufy scale, blister mites, tent caterpillar, and many others. 

Describe the San Jose scale. 

The San Jose scale has the appearance of a minute oyster shell, 
but is darker in color. It thrives on the bark of trees, and, if not 
checked, will kill the trees, giving them a rough, brown appearance. 
The scale is carried from tree to tree on the feet of birds. Trees 
affected with it must be sprayed thoroughly and persistently. Besides 
lime-sulphur, some of the commercial spraying mixtures are excellent 
preventives. 

Give the life story of the codling moth. 

The codling moth is a small, gray moth that causes a large pro- 
portion of the wormy apples. The eggs are laid on the leaves or skin 
of the fruit. When hatched the worm enters the blow end of the fruit 
and the poison must be ready for its first meal. This is the reason 
why the arsenate of lead or Paris green is added to the lime-sulphur or 
Bordeaux. If the worm is not killed, it bores its way into the center 
of the apple where it remains and feeds until it is full grown. It 
then leaves the apple, crawls down the trunk of the tree and spins a 
cocoon under the loose bark. The next spring it emerges from the 
cocoon, a moth, and again begins laying eggs. In some sections two 
broods are hatched in one year. 

Give rules for plowing and harrowing the orchard. 

Plow shallow in the spring, as soon as the condition of the soil 
will permit, and cultivate thoroughly. After putting the soil in good 
tilth, harrow often enough to keep the weeds down and a good dust 
mulch on the surface. "Remember that cultivation is essentially man- 
ure." Go over it again after each rain, or as soon as the ground is in 
condition to work. Cease cultivating about the middle of July and 
sow a cover crop. 

What may be sown for cover crops f 

Buckwheat, oats, field peas, crimson clover, rye, soy beans, rape, 
or turnips. These should be allowed to ripen and rot on the field. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 67 

What are the uses of the cover crop? 

1. To regulate the moisture in the soil. 

2. To supply humus to the soil. 

3. To supply plant food to the soil. 

All legumes take nitrogen from the air and supply it to the soil ; 
turnips take food that no other plants can obtain and decaying leave 
it for following crops. 

What quantity of seed per acre should be used for cover crops f 

Buckwheat, 1 bushel; oats, II/2 bushels; field peas, 2 bushels; 
clover, 15 pounds; rye, 1 to ly^ bushels; clover, 15 pounds; soy beans, 
3 to 4 pecks ; turnips, 4 pounds. 

What is a good fertilizer for the orchard and how should it he applied? 
Barn-yard manure is the best that can be used. Spread it uni- 
formly over the entire orchard, using one load to every three trees. 
Never pile manure around the trees. 

If barn-yard manure is not available, ivhat commercial fertilizers may 

be used for the orchard? 

If a legume is used as a cover crop, the following makes an ex- 
cellent additional fertilizer: one part of muriate of potash to 11/2 
parts of ground bone. If no legume is used, add 1 part of nitrate of 
soda to the above. 

Is fertilizer for the orchard necessary? 

Experiment stations disngree upon this point. However, if the 
ground is properly tilled and there is a cover crop which is allowed 
to die and rot on the field, no other fertilizer will be necessary, unless 
the land is very light. The theory that orchards should be heavily 
fertilized in order to yield is a mistake. The roots go deeply into 
the ground and come in contact with a vast amount of plant food. 
Apples are largely made up of water and do not require so much 
other plant food as was formerly supposed. 

When setting out a new orchard, ivhat varieties shall I plant? 

Each one must decide this for himself. First, find out what 
varieties do best in your locality. Avoid the untested, new varieties. 
Most nursery catalogs advertise a bewildering number of varieties; 
but it is safe to say that not more than a dozen of them would prove 
profitable to you. 

How should young trees be cared for when first received from the 
nursery? 

Set them out as soon as possible. Do not expose them to the hot 
sun. If they are not to be set out at once, place the roots of the trees 
in a trench and cover them with fine, moist earth. 

In setting out an orchard, how far apart should the trees be placed? 
From 35 to 50 feet, according to variety. Greenings may be set 
closer than Baldwins. Forty feet is a good average. 



68 TEE F A n M E B 8' GUIDE BOOK 

Give rules for setting the trees. 

1. Trim off all broken ends of roots. 

2. Dig a hole large enough for the roots to lay straight and deep 
enough to set the tree two inches deeper than it was in the nursery. 
The depth in the nursery may be noted by the color of the bark. 

3. Spread fine loamy soil over the small roots and press it 
down. 

4. See that no open air-spaces are left under the roots. 

5. Tramp the soil above the roots down, but leave it loose on top. 

6. Remove at least three-fourths of the top of the tree, other- 
wise, since nearly all the roots are gone, the leaves will dry the tree to 
death. 

7. If the roots are dry (which should never happen) dip them 
in water before setting. 

At what age should trees he planted? 

One-year trees receive less shock from transplanting than two- 
year trees, and come into bearing just as soon. 

How long does it take an apple tree to come into hearing? 

The time differs with different varieties. As a rule, apples that 
ripen early come into bearing early and vice versa. The Bismarck will 
sometimes bear the second year after planting, while the Northern 
Spy has been known to wait 18 years before fruiting. Trees grown 
on well-tilled land will bear much sooner than those raised on sod. 

Give a, ride for computing the nnmher of trees to the acre. 

Multiply the distance in feet between the rows by the distance the 
trees are apart in the rows and the product will be the number of trees 
to the acre. The same rule gives the number of plants or hills to the 
acre. 

What is the most favorahle location for an orchard? 

On a north or northeast slope and on rather high ground. If 
planted on a south slope, the orchard is liable to suffer in dry seasons. 
All orchard land should be thoroughly surface drained and under- 
drained. 

Mention some of the leading commercial varieties of apples. 

Baldwins, Spys, Kings, Greenings, Gravenstein and Wealthy. 

What are some of the early varieties? 

Sour: Red Astrachan, Duchess of Oldenberg, Striped Harvest, 
Yellow Transparent, Pameuse. 

Sweet : Golden Sweet, Sweet Bough. 

For kitchen use and eating "out of hand" the Sweet Bough, 
Fameuse and Red Astrachan make a combination that is hard to beat. 
Mcintosh Red and 20-ounce Pippin would make a valuable addition 
for late fall. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



69 



What method is used hy some orchardists to prevent the trunks of 
the trees from, splitting f 
The main limbs are held together by living wood braces. When 
the tree is young, sprouts on the sides of the branches a short distance 
above the crotch are grafted together and firmly held in place. In a 
short titme they grow into a strong brace and will hold the limbs in 
place, however loaded the tree may be with fruit. 

What birds feed on the larvae and eggs of the apple pests f 

Nut hatch, chicadee, woodpecker and a few others. Encourage 
the birds to work for you. Never fire a gun in the orchard. 

How may further decay he prevented, if the tree has a rotten spot in 
trunk or limhf 
Remove all the rotten wood, disinfect with corrosive sublimate, 
1 part to 1,000 parts of water, and fill with cement. In lieu of the 
corrosive sublimate solution, common Bordeaux mixture may be used. 
If the cavity is large, use stones and fill in with cement around them. 

Will hogs or sheep benefit the orchard? 

Hogs will benefit the orchard, unless in their search for grubs, 
they uproot the trees. Sheep, turned into the orchard after the crop 
is harvested, will improve it. 

What care should be taken by those who pick the apples'! 

Care should be taken not to break the short fruit-bearing twigs. 
The next year's crop may be almost totally destroyed by carelessness 
in this regard. 

ORCHAED DON'TS. 

Don't neglect to prune, spray and cultivate. 

Don't spray while the trees are in full bloom. 

Don't prune old orchards too much the first year. 

Don't try to raise apples on wet soil. 

Don't prune with an axe. 

Don't cut off the lower limbs. 

Don't leave stubs. 

Don't use dull tools. 

Don't climb the trees, use a ladder. 

Don't fail to cut the highest branches. 

Don't omit painting all wounds over an inch in diameter. 

Don't prune in the fall if your winters are long and cold. 

Don't prune when the wood is frozen. 

Don't leave limbs that cross and rub. 

Don't prune young trees too hard. 

Don't expect to do in one year what has been neglected for ten. 

Don't hurry in pruning old trees. 

Don't let a tree be lop-sided. 

Don't fail to cut the under side of large branches first. 

Don't omit pruning the center of the tree. 

Don't allow the prunings to stay in the orchard, burn them. 



70 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



WEEDS. 

What is a weed? 

There are several definitions of a weed, viz.: "A plant out of 
place"; **Any injurious, troublesome or unsightly plant that is at the 
same time useless, or comparatively so"; "A plant that interferes 
with a farmer's crops." 

Why are weeds injurious? 

1. They absorb water from the soil and lessen the supply for 
useful plants. 

2. They use up the plant food which useful plants need. 

3. They shade, crowd and choke out useful plants, 

4. They increase the cost of all operations. 

5. They may interfere with the profitable rotation of crops. 

6. Some weeds are poisonous to stock. 

7. Milk is often tainted by cows eating such weeds as Wild 
Garlic or Stink Weed. 

8. Weeds often harbor and favor the development of injurious 
insects and fungus diseases. 

9. Weed seeds decrease the value of seed grain, clover, grass and 
alfalfa seed. 

10. Weeds detract from the value of a farm. No one will buy 
a weedy farm when he can get a clean one at the same price. 

How are weed seeds distrihuted? 

1. By the wind. Many seeds have light silky hair attached to 
them so that the wind can catch them easily; as, dandelion, Canada 
thistle, etc. 

2. By water. Some seeds may be carried a thousand miles by 
water without injuring their vitality. The common Speedwell and 
Ragweed are often distributed in this way. 

3. By birds and animals. "It is estimated that about 10% of 
all flowering plants possess seeds that are dispersed by means of 
barbed or cleaved processes." To this class belong the Beggar Ticks, 
Burdock, etc. Other plants, such as Mistletoe and Meadow Saffron, 
exude sticky substances that cling to birds and animals. Seeds often 
pass through the stomachs of birds or animals without being digested 
or having their vitality impaired. 

4. By man. Along railroad tracks, in all kinds of packing, in 
barnyard and stable manure weed seed are lodged and distributed. 
Where animals are fed weeds take root and flourish. When imple- 
ments are transferred from one field to another they frequently carry 
seeds in dry dirt. This is dislodged and the seeds take root and grow. 
Many of the most injurious and troublesome weeds of America came 
with seeds from foreign countries. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 71 



How are weeds classified? 

1. Annuals, which germinate, bloom, fruit and die in one season, 

2. Biennials, which fruit the second year and then die. 

3. Perennials, which last from year to year, blooming and seed- 
ing annually. 

How may perennials be divided? 

1. Those with underground creeping stems; a^, Canada Thistle, 
and Quack grass. 

2. Those with roots that do not spread under ground; as. Chic- 
ory and Plantain. 

Mention some of the principles of weed eradication. 

1. Do not let weeds go to seed. Cut those on the roadsides, 
headlands, in waste places, in fence corners and in pastures. 

2. Remember that the best time to get rid of weeds is before 
they are firmly established. 

3. Sow only pure seed. Foul seed is dear at any price. 

4. Be careful in harrowing weeds with perennial underground 
roots that the short broken pieces of roots are not dragged all over 
the field. Every joint will start a new plant. 

5. See that the separator is cleaned before being brought upon 
the farm. 

6. Sheep and goats will eat and check weeds that can often be 
destroyed in no other way. 

Mention the different methods of weed eradication. 

1. Rotation of crops. 

2. Hoed crops. 

3. Summer fallowing. 

4. Early after-harvest cultivation. 

5. Seeding down. 

6. Pasturing sheep. 

7. Smothering. 

8. Hand Pulling. 

Why does rotation of crops help to check weeds? 

Certain kinds of weeds seem to flourish best with certain crops; 
as, the Pig Weed, Red Root and Barn Grass with corn and potatoes. 
When a different crop is placed upon the same ground these are 
checked. 

Give the rule for figJtting iveeds in hoed crops. 

Begin hoeing and cultivating before the roots are well estab- 
lished ; otherwise the roots will be merely cut off and will immediately 
start again. The farmer often makes a costly mistake in thinking 
that his potatoes or corn do not need cultivating until the weeds are 



72 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

four or five inches high. Going through them when the weeds are 
just peeping out of the ground is as effective as four times after thvj 
weeds are well established. 

What may he said for or against the practice of .wmmer falloivirig as 

a means for destroying weeds? 

Summer fallowing is one of the most effective means for eradi- 
cating weeds. The objections to it are that it destroys humus and 
one year's crop is lost by it. It renders, however, a larger amount 
of soluble plant food available and assists in conserving moisture for 
the next year's crop. In Washington and some of the other north- 
western states where a crop is raised only every other year, the land 
being harrowed one year, it is said the crop is equal to what would 
be obtained if one were raised each year. Thus the cost and labor 
of putting in and harvesting one crop is saved. 

What weeds may he destroyed hy early after-harvest cultivation? 

Plowing shallow immediately after a harvest destroys the winter 
annuals ; as, False Flax, Cockle and Wormseed Mustard. Other weeds 
are set back. 

What may he said in favor of seeding down as a method of destroying 

weeds ? 

Fields overrun with some kinds of weeds, particularly annuals, 
may be cleaned by seeding to grass. This method has the advantage 
of little expense and labor. The hay should be cut early before the 
weeds are mature. 

How may weeds he smothered out? 

Sow some quick growing crop, such as rape or buckwheat. These 
crops will quickly cover the ground and, in their weakened condition, 
the weeds will be smothered out. 

Hov) may quack-grass he destroyed? 

As soon as the crop is harvested plow lightly and harrow. If 
the roots are present in large quantities, they may be raked up with 
a hay rake and burned. Harrow frequently during the remainder of 
the season. If the season is dry, nearly all the roots will be destroyed- 
In the spring plant corn or potatoes and keep the grass down by 
hoeing and cultivation. This will destroy the roots that have survived 
the other processes. Canada thistles may be destroyed in the same 
way. 

Is it advisahle to sow quack-grass seed for pasture? 

"Were it not for its weedy character, quack-grass would be a 
valuable forage plant. It makes fair hay and is relished by cattle 
when pastured; but because it so readily becomes a weed, it is un- 
safe to plant." — Cornell Leaflet. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 73 

How may sorrel be eradicated f 

Sorrel indicates poor, sandy, or gravelly soil. It prefers sour 
soil, hence liming and manure is the best remedy. 

How may ivild parsnip he eradicated? 

Wild parsnips and wild mustard, like any of the other biennials, 
may be killed out by preventing them from going to seed. 

What important measure can a farmer take to prevent weeds? 

He can be sure that there is no weed seed present in his seed 
grain. Very little study will be necessary to enable the farmer to 
identify foul seeds. A common reading glass or small microscope 
will be necessary for their examination. Farmers' Bulletins 260 and 
382 will assist in identifying different varieties. A good fanning mill 
will be necessary for the recleaning of seeds before sowing. 

Is spraying a good method of eradicating weeds? 

Spraying with a solution of 100 pounds of iron sulphate or 12 
pounds of copper sulphate to 50 gallons of water will kill wild mus- 
tard and some other weeds. A machine should be used that will give 
fine spray under considerable pressure. Fifty gallons of the solu- 
tion will be sufficient for one acre. For killing weeds in walks a 2 
per cent solution of sodium, arsenate, about eight gallons to the 
square rod. may be used. 

WEED DON'TS 

Don't let the weeds get the start of you. 
Don't sow weedy seed. 

Don't fail to cut the weeds along the sides of the road and in 
fence corners. 



74 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



THE PASTURE. 

Docs the average farmer paij enough attention to the improvement of 

his pasture? 

He does not. Swales, waste places and unprofitable meadows are 
often turned into pasture with little or no attempt to improve their 
condition. The pasture should be the most profitable land on the 
farm. It should not only yield plenty of grass, but such a variety as 
will afford the stock a balanced ration. The drainage of a piece of 
wet pasture land, or the substitution of a good sod of mixed pasture 
grasses for the red top and white grasses of the pasture are matters 
of vital importance to the farmer. 

Suggest some good seed mixtures for a permanent pasture. 

No. 2. 
lbs. timothy, 
lbs. red clover, 
lbs. alsike clover, 
lbs. Kentucky blue grass, 
lbs. tall meadow fesque, 
lbs. orchard grass, 
lbs. red top. 

What is a good mixture for wet, sour land! 

Five pounds of timothj^, 5 pounds of red top, 5 pounds of alsike 
clover and 3 pounds of white clover. 
What is the most important pasture grass, and why? 

Kentucky blue grass. It spreads from the roots without going 
to seed; it starts early in the spring; it is much relished by all kinds 
of stock. Although pure seed is hard to get and somewhat costly, no 
pasture sliould ever be without it. Timothy, at its best, is good for 
only about four years, and should be sown in pastures only to supply 
feed while the other grasses are getting started. 

Should a field sown with a permanent pasture mixture he mowed he- 
fore turning into pasture? 
It would be best to mow the grass for hay at least once. 

How may an old pasture that can not he plowed he improved? 

Lime it, if sour. Spread a coat of manure over it with a manure 
spreader. Sow one of the pasture seed mixtures on places where the 
grass is thin as early as you can get on the ground. 

Can sodium nitrate he profitahly used on an old pasture? 

Yes; if the land is in need of nitrogen. Use about 200 pounds 
to the acre. A trial test of a half acre should demonstrate whether 
it would be profitable to continue the treatment. 





No. 1. 




10 lbs. 


timothy, 


5 


4 lbs. 


red clover. 


6 


3 lbs. 


alsike clover. 


4 


2 lbs. 


white clover. 


4 


3 lbs. 


Kentucky blue grass. 


2 


2 lbs. 


tall meadow fesque, 


3 


2 lbs. 


alfalfa. 


2 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 75 



Will sheep improve a pasture? 

A few sheep in a weedy pasture will much improve it. They will 
eat weeds that cows will not touch, thus giving the grasses a better 
chance to grow. Too many sheep will injure the pasture by close 
cropping of the grasses. 

Will mowing the pasture imth a machine improve it? 

Mowing the pasture twice a year will help to check the growth 
of weeds and prevent many of them from going to seed. The cutting 
should be high in order not to injure the grasses. 

PASTURE DON'TS. 

Don't pasture too early in the spring. 
Don't turn a poor meadow into pasture. 

Don't neglect to fence off the poorest part of the pasture and tit 
it with a permanent pasture mixture. 

Don't let the weeds in the pasture go to seed. 

Don't fail to do a little to improve the pasture every year. 



76 T~H E FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



FORESTRY 

What is the average price per M. feet obtained at mills for all of the 

principal New York woods? 

White Oak $46.25 

Red Oak 38.49 

Chestnut 28.56 

Sugar Maple 27.07 

Beech 20.54 

Cherry 46.22 

Hickory 43.03 

Ash .; 38.49 



Birch $30.07 

Elm 28.37 

Basswood 27.36 

White Pine 27.70 

Spruce 21.31 

Hemlock 19.82 

Yellow Poplar 40.47 



In establishment of a Farm Woodlot Plantation which is best pure or 
mixed planting? 

Owing to the diversity of the uses for wood on the farm, the 
mixed planting is to be desired as some of our quick growing, light- 
wooded species can be utilized for fuel while the heavier hard woods 
may be utilized for repairing the farm tools, etc. The mixed stand 
has advantage over the pure stand also in taking advantage of the dif- 
ferent soil qualities. The moisture demanding species do better on the 
low lands and the other species do better on the drier locations. 
Mixed species tend to produce cleaner timber on account of the fact 
that the trees have a tendency to prune each other. Next the damage 
due to outside danger such as insect pests, wind storms, etc., on account 
of the fact that a great many of the trees will not be subject to the 
same insect pests as some others and also due to a difference in the root 
constructions of the trees in a mixed stand. The crowns of the dif- 
ferent species will more thoroughly utilize all the atmospheric space 
than will a stand of only one species. This may also be said to be 
true regarding the matter of soil protection. The forest floor will 
be more amply protected from the direct rays of the sun and the 
eroding action of heavy rains far loss. For small farm woodlots a 
mixed plantation is far more preferable. Forest conditions are 
established quicker with mixed planting than in pure plantings. 

What is the best method of storing over winter black walnuts and 
similar forest tree seeds? 

In the storage of any forest tree seeds it is well to mimic nature. 
Those seeds that fall naturally to the ground such as our nut seeds, 
acorns, etc., should be kept in a moist place, fairly even temperature 
over winter. The best method is to pit them. This is done by 
digging a trench of a size to accommodate easily the amount of seed 
on hand as in the case of black walnut. Spread a layer of black 
walnut over the bottom of the trench; cover this with clean sand 
of the same thickness ; then another layer of nuts and another layer 
of sand until the nuts are all stratified in this way. Care should 



USEFUL FAC1\S AND RULES FOR FARMING 77 

be taken that this pit is located where there is good soil drainage 
preferably where the direct rays of the sun will not warm up the 
soil too early in the spring as on a north slope or in the shade of some 
buildings. 

What is the best way to propagate tvillows and poplarsf 

Poplars and willows are among the easiest of our tree species to 
be propagated vegetatively or by cuttings. Theoretically any plant 
may be propagated by taking a cutting and rooting it. The best way 
to make cuttings for poplar or willow is by making cuttings from 
the previous year's growth 8 to 10 inches long about the size of a large 
lead pencil. The best season to make these is in February and March. 
These cuttings are tied into bundles 25 to 50 in each bundle and are 
placed tops down in a box filled with moist sand or moist sawdust. 
The base ends which have been turned up will slowly callous over and 
small rootlets will appear. The rapidity of this development depends 
a great deal on the amount of heat. Cuttings should not be forced too 
rapidly. After the soil is ready the cuttings should be planted on the 
proposed areas. As soon as the callous is well developed care should 
be taken that the cuttings are placed in the ground at a slight angle 
and that no more than 1" or IVo" of the tops shows above the surface. 
Poplar and willow handled in this way will make a. rapid growth. 

What is a forest tree seedling? 

The term seedling is applied to any forest tree during its first 
growing season before transplanting has been done. The height 
growth of seedlings of some of our trees are as follows : 

Ajiierican Elm 6 to 12 in. i Hardy Catalpa 24 in. 

Honey Locust 8 to 12 in. j White Vine 3 in." 

Sugar Majilos 12 in. i White Spruce . . 2 in.' 

Black Locust 24 in. Black Walnut 12 in. 

Basswood 6 to 1 2 in. I 

What is the best time to prune shade trees? 

The best time to prune shade trees is the dormant period. Usually 
from November first until the first of April in this latitude. However, 
if the pruning is done early in winter giving away of the tissue of the 
wood in freezing and thawing may occur. In pruning the surface 
wound should be smooth and parallel to the surface of the trunk of the 
tree. An application of white lead or some other good paint should be 
made immediately. Care should be taken in the development of the 
callous covering this wound that it develops evenly over the entire 
surface. Do not prune trees in spring on account of bleeding. Do not 
prune trees in dry mid-summer on account of defoliating. 

Having a stand of mixed hardwoods in a ivoodlot, it is desired to ascer- 
tain the ^lumber of board feet contained in the stand. 
Methods used in doing this work are usually termed "cruising." 
There are several methods which are good. One method is to go 
through and first determine the least diameter which it is anticipated 
will be cut. Go through the stand and determine the different species 
by ocular estimate the number of logs which it is possible to obtain 



78 THE F ARM E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

from the tree. The contents of these logs may be ascertained by apply- 
ing the Doyle rule. The Doyle rule is simple. It assumes that any 
log 16' long is equal in feet board measure to the square diameter re- 
duced by 4. Thus a log 24" in diameter 16 feet long would be esti- 
mated as 24 minus 4x24 minus 4 equals 400 feet board measure. If 
the log was 18' long instead of 16' 400x18/16 or 450 board feet. Other 
diameters and results may be worked out accordingly, thus giving the 
total volume of the stand. 

Having on hand a quantity of white pine seed, hoiv would you raise 

white pine seedlings? 

In a well drained soil, white or sandy loam where the soil is in 
good mechanical condition in fair fertility, prepare the seed bed 4 feet 
wide and as long as necessary to accommodate the seed on hand. This 
area should be spaded or plowed at least 9" deep in the fall and thrown 
up to the action of the weather. The freezing and thawing will kill 
out a great many of the insects and tear down soil particles making it 
much easier to work. As early as it is possible to rake the ground in 
the spring the area should be raked over carefully, or if there is a 
large area disked and cross disked, then harrowed with a spike-tooth 
harrow and then raked by hand. After the area has been thoroughly 
raked, then it should be rolled and raked lightly. The seed should 
then be distributed over the surface broadcast so that there will be 
about one seed to each square inch. The area should then be rolled or 
planked lightly thus pushing the seed down into the soil the same 
depth to which the seed is wide. Then there should be sifted lightly 
over the top sandy loam of the same fertility to a depth sufficient to 
cover the seed. After this application a light ring of humus soil taken 
from underneath decaying leaves and litter in the woods, 
should be made. After this second application, pine seedlings or straw 
should be placed over the bed 5" or 6" thick. If straw is used care 
should be taken not to introduce grain or weed seeds. The bed should 
be watched and as soon as it is seen that the seeds begin to germinate 
the mulch or straw or leaves should be removed and a lath screen of 
50% shade should be constructed over the bed. The screen may be 
held up by stakes 18" high. Care should be taken to protect the bed 
from birds. Do not leave the screen on during rains. Remove the 
screen every afternoon between 4 and 5 o'clock and do not place it on 
the bed until between 7 and 8 o'clock in the morning. In this way the 
bed gets the advantage of the fall of dew and has good air ventilation. 
At the end of the first growing season these seedlings should be from 
21/2" to 3" high. Protection for winter: Where the soil is inclined to 
heave with frost light mulch should be spread over the seedlings. It 
should be put on after the surface of the soil is thoroughly frozen and 
remain on until after the danger of sudden changes in temperature are 
past in the spring. 

What is heeling inf 

Heeling in is the operation in the temporary holding of tree stock 
from the time it has been received in shipment until it may be planted 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 79 

or for the temporary holding of stock for the transplanting. A trench 
is dug sufficiently deep to accommodate the roots of the stock to be 
heeled in. A layer of seedlings are then placed in the trench, dirt is 
thrown over and packed down thoroughly ; then another layer of seed- 
lings are placed on the top and a little deeper than the first layer; 
more dirt is placed on the roots and this operation is kept up until all 
the seedlings are cared for. Heeling in should be done in a well- 
drained, shady location, preferably in soil that is easily worked. The 
tops should be laid toward the north as vegetative process will be re- 
tarded more than it would were the tops pointed toward the south on 
account of the direct rays of the spring sun. 

What is tlie best method of treatment for preserving fence posts from 

decay? 

Fence posts should be cut a year or a year and a half before they 
are actually required for use. They should be cut in the winter when 
the trees are in a dormant state and should be piled as soon as possible, 
piling in open crib form in order to thoroughly season. If they are 
piled in this way the seasoning will take place rapidly and they should 
be thoroughly dry within one year. One of the simple treatments to 
prevent decay is to char the base of the fence post in a band where the 
post when set will be at the dirt line, decay takes place more rapidly 
where the air and moist soil come together. This charring should be 
done thoroughly, at least I/4" to 1/2". By thoroughly charring the ex- 
pense is very slight, only a matter of labor. 

Another good method is to apply creosote. A thorough manner 
to do this is by placing the posts in a tank so that they are covered to 
about one half their length. Heat the creosote to a boiling point. As 
soon as the boiling point is reached immerse the posts in cold creosote. 
The hot creosote having opened up the pores of the wood and driven 
out the excess moisture, when the post is immersed in the cold creosote 
the cold oil will rush in and bathe the pores. One barrel of oil will 
treat about 200 posts, depending on the size and species of wood used. 
The cost of treatment will be about 5c each. One barrel of creosote of 
52 gallons costs about $5. Such a preservative treatment about 
doubles the life of our ordinary fence posts. Without further treat- 
ment than seasoning a white cedar post quartered to 6" face will last 
10 to 15 years. White oak 6'' round post 8 years. Ash. beech and 
maple 3 or 4 years ; willows 6" in diameter piled and thoroughly dried 
6 to 7 years. 

When is the best time to clear land of small growth f 

Cut during the last part of July or August. At this time plants 
are exhausted from their efforts to store up food, and it will be difficult 
for them to recuperate and start a new growth. 



80 THE F A R M E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 



CEMENT AND CONCRETE. 

What is Portland Cement f 

Portland Cement is a finely powdered material resulting from the 
burning of a properly proportioned mixture of limestone and shale, 
or clay. In other words the materials used must consist largely of 
lime and clay and must be mixed chemically in proper proportions. 

What is concrete ? 

Concrete is in reality an artificial stone made from cement, sand 
and broken stone or gravel. These materials are properly propor- 
tioned so as to form a dense mass, the voids of the stone being filled 
by the sand and the voids of the sand filled by the cement. The ma- 
terials must be thoroughly mixed and a sufficient amount of water used 
to make a mass of a jelly-like consistency. Due to the action of water 
and cement it will begin to stiffen in half an hour or so, will set up 
in from ten to twenty-four hours, and in a month will be hard as a 
rock. 

Mention some of the purposes for which Portland Cement may he 

profitably used on the farm. 

Portland Cement may be used on the farm for a great variety of 
purposes, some of which are the making of foundations, walls and 
floors for houses and barns, for silos, tanks, cisterns, fence posts, walks 
and such work of a general nature. 

How should cement, sand and gravel he mixed for walks f 

For this purpose the common method is to make a base consisting 
of one part cement, 2i/4 parts sand, and 5 parts of gravel ; this is to be 
covered with a top coat about an inch thick made of a mortar one part 
cement and two parts of sand. 

What proportion of cement, sand and gravel should he used for water- 
ing troughs? 
The common mixture employed for this type of construction is 

one part of cement, two parts of sand, and three parts of gravel, the 

idea being to have a mixture which is rich in cement in order to make 

as dense a concrete as possible. 

Would cement walls he the cheapest for barns or houses? 

The cost of concrete construction depends largely upon the lo- 
cality. In some places the sand and gravel can be obtained at very 
slight cost and often for the mere cartage. The cost of forms is an 
item for consideration, and frequently the lumber used can be em- 
ployed for the construction of a building. Concrete does not require 
skilled labor as in the case of wood or brick work. In first cost con- 
crete is considered more expensive than wood. However, concrete 
does not burn, rot, and has no cost for maintenance, and thus in the 
end concrete should compare very favorably with any type of con- 
struction. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 81 



C(m cinders he used in place of gravel? 

Cinders are used for making concrete where strength is not very 
important for instance, in some types of floor work cinders answer the 
purpose of gravel, and in foundation work where mass is the principal 
quality desired cinder concrete is also employed. 

Will concrete harden under water f 

Portland Cement is a hydraulic material, and thus concrete made 
of this cement will harden in water or air. 

How long will cement keep? 

Portland Cement can be kept practically indefinitely when it is 
stored in a dry place and protected from moisture and dampness. 
The way Portland Cement is injured in storage is by coming in contact 
with moisture. This of course results in its hardening. It is some- 
times reconditioned that is. broken up and finely pulverized by passing 
through a screen, but best results cannot be expected from recondition- 
ed cement. 

What is the quantity of cement in a barrel? 

One barrel of cement holds 3.80 cubic feet and consists of four 
bags. 

What kind of sand should he used for making concrete? 

It is particularly important in making concrete to use a good 
quality of sand and gravel. The making of concrete is essentially a 
manufacturing operation, and it can be spoiled as easily by poor aggre- 
gate as by poor cement. The sand should be coarse, hard, and clean, 
and the gravel clean and durable. A very small percentage of vege- 
table matter will render aggregate unfit for use. That which contains 
mica in any appreciable quantity should also be discarded and not 
used for the purpose of making concrete. Sometimes the grains of 
sand are coated with clay which prevents the obtaining of good re- 
sults, as cement cannot unite the grains of sand when they are in such 
a condition. Sand and gravel which contains dirt or loam can be 
easily washed according to the instructions given in "Concrete Con- 
struction about the Home and on the Farm," published by the Atlas 
Portland Cement Company. 

Can sea tvater he used in making concrete? 

It is not advisable to use sea water in mixing concrete on account 
of the chemicals contained therein. 

Can concrete he made ivaterproof ? 

By the selection of good, clean sand and gravel, by making the 
concrete of a maximum density, by using a mix of rather wet con- 
sistency — that which will just flow sluggishly — and by placing the 
concrete in one continuous operation, it is possible to obtain a concrete 
which will be water-tight under all ordinary pressures. 



82 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



Is concrete affected by firef 

Under fire concrete has proven very serviceable and in fact is one 
of the best fireproof materials known. It is used largely for this pur- 
pose, such as encasing columns and beams in fireproof construction 
work. It is a very good non-conductor of heat and from one to two 
inches of concrete or mortar has been found to protect the material 
underneath. In some cases where the surface has become slightly 
cracked and checked under severe heat it has been found that this has 
affected the concrete to a depth of not more than two inches. Concrete 
can be depended upon to resist all ordinary fires. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 83 



PERTINENT QUESTIONS FOR FARMERS' WIVES. 

What is the first necessity in rural sanitation f 
Plenty of pure water. 

What is the safest way of disposing of household waste? 

A septic tank, (which any farmer can construct) to take care of 
the waste from the laundry, kitchen, lavatory and toilet. Table wastes 
not suitable for the farm animals should be burned or buried. 

Why are flies dangerous as well as annoying? 

They breed in tilth and never "wipe their feet." They carry 
typhoid and other germ diseases from excreta and other dangerous 
sources to the food on the table and the baby's bottle. 

Is night air dangerous? 

It is not, because at night it is the only air we have, except the 
impure air we have locked up in our sleeping rooms. In the cities 
night air is more free from dust and germs than in the daytime during 
traffic and when factories are throwing off smoke and gases. Air that 
is warmed by the sun is better. The sun should penetrate every room 
in the house. Sun will destroy germs. Sleeping out of doors is get- 
ting very common and the practice is warding off pulmonary diseases 
and keeping us free from colds. 

How does ventilation affect health? 

Poor ventilation means impure air and impure air affects health. 
Every house should be constructed so there may be an escape for the 
impure air and an inlet for supply of fresh air and still be comfortable. 
-Cold air does not always mean fresh air. Cloth windows break the 
direct force of the draft and protect the occupants of a room. A large 
draft striking the entire body is not as dangerous as a small draft 
striking a small portion, such as the back of the neck. 

What types of disease are strictly preventable? 

Those spread largely through intestinal discharges as, typhoid, 
etc. Those through discharges from the throat and nose as, tuber- 
culosis, common colds, etc. Insect borne diseases, like yellow fever, 
etc. Miscellaneous diseases ; food and mouth diseases. 

Is an unpleasant odor a menace to health? 

Gases that are thrown off are waste products which pollute the 
air thus making it impure. They are a menace*to health. 

Is there a safe headache remedy? 

Headache is not a disease, but a symptom. The cause should be 
removed rather than the pain deadened. Headache remedies are 
largely coal tar products which depress the heart. They tend to 
draw the blood from the brain and overwork the heart. Their persis- 
tent use causes insanity. 



84 TEE F A R M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 



What are some of the rules of good health? 

Plenty of pure water inside and outside the body. Pure food, 
exercise, fresh air night and day. Thinking well thoughts. For- 
getting ourselves in serving others. 

What is the difference in effect between a hot and cold hath? 

The cold bath should be taken after exercise or after a hot bath 
when the body is warm. A cold bath should not be used by one who 
cannot get a healthy glow after the rub. The hot bath opens the 
pores of the skin. It should not be taken just after a meal or when 
brain work is to be done. To some the hot bath is very debilitating 
while it generally tends to produce sleepiness. 

Should a housekeeper "take time off" every day? 

She should rest frequently. The tread mill fashion of working 
kills the imagination and affects the nerves. By stopping to relax 
several times a day, more can be accomplished in a given time. Large 
corporations are trying this out with their employes purely from an 
economic standpoint and it pays them in dollars and cents. It will 
pay the housekeeper because she will have more time to "make a real 
home." Housekeeping is not always "homemaking. " 

What is the hest substitute for mother's milk? 

Cow's milk given under the direction of a trained nurse or a 
physician. Cow's milk contains more protein than the mother's milk 
and should be diluted with water. 

Should children he allowed to drink coffee or tea? 

Children should never be allowed tea, coffee, beer or other stimu- 
lants. 

What constitutes a good school lunch? 

Egg, meat or peanut butter sandwiches, bread and butter and 
jelly, apples, oranges, custards, cookies and pie occasionally. Nuts and 
raisins, a few pieces of candy. Candy and nuts should never be given 
on an empty stomach. If children are allowed pure candies in mod- 
erate amounts at the right time, they will not unduly crave and buy 
the cheap and adulterated kinds found at the "corner grocery." 
Homemade candies are best. Children must have a certain amount of 
sweet in their diet. 

Is it safe to give children patent medicines? 

Most emphatically no. No remedies should be given except under 
the direction of the family physician, except the simple home remedies. 
The so-called soothing syrups contain opiates and are deadly in their 
effect. Patent medicines of all kinds for children and adults should 
be avoided like a plague. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 85 

Wliat are the general rules that govern the cooking of \a) meats, (h) 
eggs, (c) starchy foods, (d) vegetables? 

(a) Meat and eggs are classed as protein foods and are therefore 
subject to the principles of protein cookery. Meat and eggs should 
not be cooked at a high temperature, as high temperature will toughen 
the protein and render it less readily digested. Meat is composed of 
muscle fibres held by connective tissues. The muscle fibres toughen 
when boiled, the connective tissue becomes soluble and is then 
known as gelatine. Generally the more the connective tissue, the 
tougher the meat. Thus if tough cuts are cooked a long time below 
the boiling point the fibres become tender and the connective tissue is 
softened. Tender cuts of meat such as beef steak, are seared in order 
to toughen the outside of the meat and thus retain the juices. 

(b) Eggs being a protein food should be cooked at the boiling 
point. Soft cooked and hard cooked eggs are more palatable and 
easily digested if cooked in water just below the holing point than if 
cooked a shorter time in boiling water. Fried eggs, scrambled eggs 
and omelets should be cooked at a low temperature. The same prin- 
ciple applies to the making of custards. If they are subjected to high 
temperatures the protein coagulates, toughens and curdles. 

(c) Starch is made up of many tiny grains which do not dis- 
solve in cold water but which absorb water, swell and burst when they 
are subjected to moist heat. In this form it is easily digested. 

Starchy vegetables, white sauces and cereals should be cooked in 
such a way that the starch grains swell and burst and a palatable 
flavor is developed. This requires continued cooking by moist heat. 

(d) All vegetables belong to one of two classes. They are either 
strong or mild juiced. The strong being onions and cabbage and 
these should be cooked in liberal amounts of water in an uncovered 
pan. The mild juiced should be cooked in a small quantity of water 
in a covered pan. Vegetables should not be overcooked as they are 
unpalatable and develop strong flavors which may be very irritating 
to the digestive tract. 

Is it desirable to use commercial canning powders? 

It is undesirable to use canning powders. While the occasional 
use of vegetables canned with these powders may not show immediate 
ill effects, the continued use may result in serious effects upon the 
health. It is entirely possible to keep all vegetables and fruits in- 
definitely by sterilization, therefore why run a risk by using powders ? 

What foods are good substitutes for meat ? 
Milk, eggs, cheese, nuts, legumes. 

What is the test of a good hroom? 

One that is "even" enough to stand alone when placed on the 
floor. It should have a smooth, straight handle and should be of 
medium weight. 



86 TEE FARMEB.S' GUIDE BOOK 



Is there a practical dish-washing machine for the private homef 

The majority are too expensive and only few are practical. The 
Fearless Dishwashing Machine Co., Rochester, N. Y.. makes a good one, 
but it costs $30. With a large family it might prove a good invest- 
ment. 

Are paper towels, paper dish cloth, etc., a good investment f 

Not as an investment. They cost too much. Paper towels are 
very convenient in the kitchen and save some washing. From a sani- 
tary point of view they are desirable for rural schools, railway stations 
and public lavatories. Public towels should never be used. They 
are disease carriers. 

What are some of the hest finishes for kitchen walls and floors? 

Paint makes the best finish for a kitchen wall where steam is in- 
evitable. The walls are easily wiped off. The kitchen should be 
painted a bright cheerful color. A dark and dingy kitchen is an 
abomination to the one who has to spend so many hours in it. Lino- 
leum makes the best floor covering. It has a certain amount of " give 
to it that the bare floor does not have. It is easier to stand on while 
at work. Rubber heels are excellent to prevent the continual jar 
which affects the head and spine. 

Are vucuum sweepers better than the ordinary carpet sweeper? 

They should hardly be compared, as we cannot get along without 
the ordinary carpet sweeper for "brushing up" a little every day. 
The vacuum cleaner is indispensable for housecleaning as it saves 
taking up carpets and stirring up dust all through the house. It is a 
labor saving device and every housekeeper should have one. 

Can "dustless dusters" he made at home? 

A good duster can be made by using the ordinary machine oil 
which is used for the farm machinery, and ' ' cutting ' ' it with kerosene. 
Saturate cheese cloth with this and you have a cheap and satisfactory 
duster. Some prefer to buy the black cheese cloth. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 87 



MAKING MAPLE SUGAR. 

//( ii-hat states may maple sugar he made? 

In all the New England and the Middle States. 

What trees supply sap for maple sugar? 

Only the rock, or hard maple. Never tap the soft maple ; it may 
be distinguished by the color and shape of its bark. 

What kind of sugar utensils should he used? 

Use metal spouts and the best tin buckets. Covered buckets are 
not necessary. The farmer may build his own arch, using stones or 
fire brick, or he may purchase an arch already to set up. He can use 
an evaporator or a sheet-iron pan. 

What are the secrets of good, sugar making? 

1. Fresh, clean sap ; 2. rapid boiling ; 3. frequent syruping off. 
The buckets and all other utensils must be absolutely clean and sweet. 
The sap should not be allowed to stand in the buckets longer than 
twenty-four hours. Twelve hours would be better. Strain the sap 
when it is gathered and again when it is run into the store tub. It is 
not what is put into maple syrup that makes it white, but what is kept 
out. The darker the sugar, the more impure it is. Maple syrup, if the 
process of making were perfect, would be as colorless as the sap from 
which it is made. "When the sap is put into the pan it must be kept 
boiling vigorously until it is syrup. Long boiling, even if the sap 
is kept clean, will cause the color to become red. If light colored 
syrup is wanted, syrup off at least every twelve hours. 

What should he done to the sap while it is hoiling? 

With a long-handled skimmer remove every particle of scum or 
dirt that appears on the surface. 

Wliat should he done with the pan after syruping off? 

The pan should be thoroughly washed and rinsed before more sap 
is run into it. This may seem a waste of time, when more sap is wait- 
ing to be boiled ; but light-colored sugar can not be made without 
doing it. 

What may be done with the sweetened ivater oljtnined by washing the 
pan? 

It can be made into vinegar. Let settle and strain into a clean 
cider or whiskey barrel which should be left with the bung hole open, 
covered with a fine wire screen. 

Hoiv is one to knoiv when it is time to '^ syrup off?" 

By the behavior of the syrup when poured off the edge of a dipper 
or skimmer. When it no longer runs off in small drops, but seemf 
thick and viscid, it is ready to "syrup off." 



88 THE FAR3IER8' GUIDE BOOK 



After syruping off, what must he done to prepare the sijrup for the 

ynarketf 

Place in a smaller pan and boil to proper thickness ; strain through 
felt cones (made on purpose) or good wool (flannel) to take out the 
"lime" or "sugar sand;" let it cool and settle and can in self-sealing 
tin cans that hold a gallon each. Fill the cap-neck even full so as to 
exclude all air and then screw the cap down tight with small gas 
pliers. Keep in a cool, dark place and it will hold its rich maple 
flavor well for a year or more. 

If it is desired to make the sugar into cakes, the syrup is boiled 
until it thickens and the wax breaks. Then it is taken off, stirred 
rapidly and poured into moulds. 

What part of the season is the best for maple sugar making? 

The first runs make the best sugar. In order to be good sugar 
weather it must freeze during the night and thaw days. Whenever 
there is a protracted warm spell the buckets should be laid down to 
drain. 

What is the cause of the rock candy so often found in the bottom of 

the cans of maple syrup f 

If syrup is boiled so thick that it weighs more than eleven 
pounds to the gallon, the legal weight, it is apt to crystallize at the 
bottom into clear rock candy or into granulated sugar. In glass cans 
that stand in the light the granulated sugar is more often formed. 
Keep your syrup in a cool place not exposed to the light. 

Give rule for tapping the trees. 

It is better not to tap trees that are under ten inches in diameter. 
If the trees are two feet or more in diameter, two buckets may be 
used to a tree. In tapping use the metal, flanged spouts that require 
a half-inch bit. The hole should be bored about two inches deep, 
slightly slanting. When the season is well advanced it may be slightly 
deepened. In "tapping over" do not bore new holes in the trees. 



\ 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 89 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

How may the different varieties of chickens be classified f 

1. The egg breeds. These mature early, begin laying when quite 
young, are nonsitters and light of weight. Leghorns, Minorcas, Ham- 
burgs and Cicilian Buttercups are representatives of this class. They 
lay white eggs. 

2. The general purpose breeds. These include the Plymouth 
Rocks, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds and a few others. 
They are heavier than the egg breeds and do not mature quite so early. 
They are excellent table fowls and good layers. They are good sitters 
and good mothers and are the best for the farmer who raises only a 
small flock. They lay light brown eggs. 

3. The meat breeds. The Chochins, Brahmas and Langshans 
are the best representatives of this class. They are the largest of the 
different breeds and are considered poor layers. They are very docile, 
easily tamed and stand close confinement. They are persistent sitters. 

4. The fancy breeds. These include the Bantams, Games (except 
Indian Games), Polish, Frizzles and Silkies. They are bred for show 
purposes only and are unprofitable for the farmer or general poultry- 
man. 

Which of the egg breeds is the best for egg production f 

i\Iore tlian ninety percent of the successful poultrymen breed the 
"White Leghorn for egg production. 

How many eggs per hen may be expected from the egg-producing 

breeds? 

This will, of course, depend upon the poultryman. The average 
egg production of farm-yard fowls is about 70. No doubt there are 
many flocks that do not average more than 20 eggs each. However, 
when a flock is properly selected, housed and fed, it should average 
at least 120 eggs for each hen. Many strains have been developed 
that produce more than 200 eggs each, per year. The record of 308 
eggs, is held by a hen owned by the Oregon Agricultural College. 

Which is the best of the general-purpose breeds? 

There is very little choice between them. Each has its advocates. 
The Wyandottes are not quite so persistent sitters as the Plymouth 
Rocks, which make them a favorite with some. 

By ivhat method should chicks be hatched? 

All successful poultrymen now use incubators. While they require 
close attention, their mfiny advantages are obvious. By their use the 
poultryman does not have to depend upon the caprices of the hen; 
large numbers of chicks may be hatched at one time and perfect free- 
dom from lice be attained: 



90 



THE F A B M E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 



What care should he given to the young chicks ivhen hatched? 

During the first forty-eight hours of a chick's life it requires a 
comfortable, even temperature, sleep and, toward the end of the 
period, a drink of water with the chill removed. Care should be used 
to see that the chicks do not get wet at the drinking fountain or drink 
water that has become foul or stale. The floor of the brooder should 
be covered with coarse, sharp sand, over which is scattered chaff or 
straw litter. 



How sJioidd the young chicks he fedf 

If hatched under a hen in warm weather and the hen is allowed 
to run, moistened corn meal may be fed with good results. The chicks 
will obtain the meat balance from insects and bugs. They must always 
have plenty of pure water, if the young chicks are hatched too early 
to be placed on the ground, the problem of caring for them is a more 
serious one. They must be supplied with a well balanced ration with 
sufficient grit for digestive operations. The New York State College of 
Agriculture, at Cornell University, gives the following rations and 
directions for feeding chicks to maturity : 



THE RATIONS 
Mixture No. 1 
8 lbs. rolled oats 
8 lbs. bread crumbs 

2 lbs. sifted beef scrap 

(best grade) 

1 lb. bone meal 

Mixture No. 2 

3 lbs. wheat (cracked) 

2 lbs. cracked corn (fine) 
1 lb. pinhead oatmeal 

Mixture No. 3 

3 lbs. wheat bran 
3 lbs. corn meal 

3 lbs. wheat middlings 
3 lbs. beef scrap 

(best grade) 

1 lb. bone meal 
Mixture No. 4 

3 lbs. wheat (whole) 

2 lbs. cracked corn 
1 lb. hulled oats. 

Mixture No. 5 

3 lbs. wheat 

3 lbs. cracked corn 



THE METHOD. 
1—5 Days 

Mixture No. 1, moistened with sour 
skimmed milk, fed five times a day: 
Mixture No. 2 in shallow tray containing 
a little of No. 3 (dry) always before 
chicks. Shredded green food, and fine 
grit and charcoal scattered over food. 
5 Days — 2 Weeks 

No. 2 in light litter twice a day. No. 3, 
moistened with sour skimmed milk, fed 
three times a day; No. 3 (dry) always 
available. 
2 — 4 Weeks 

As above, except that the moist mash 
is given twice a day. 



4 — 6 Weeks {or until chicks are on 
range ) 

Reduce meals of moist mash to one a 
day. Mixture No. 4 in litter twice a day ; 
dry mash always available. 
To Maturity: 

No. 3 and No. 5 hopper fed. One meal 
a day of moist mash if it is desired to 
hasten development. 



VSEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



91 



Further Directions. 

Provide fine grit, charcoal, shell and bone from the start. 
Give grass range or plenty of green food. 
Have fresh, clean water always available. 
Feed only sweet, wholesome foods. 
Avoid damp and soiled litters. 
Feed moist mash rather sparingly. 
Keep chickens active. 
Disinfect brooders frequently. 
Test all beef scrap before feeding. 

Cracker crumbs may be substituted for bread crumbs when 
bread is not available. 



THE CORNELL RATIONS FOR LAYING HENS. 

The following whole grain mixture is fed morning and afternoon 
in a straw litter : 

By Weight By Measure 

Winter Winter 

60 lbs. wheat 32 qts. wheat 

60 " corn 36 " corn 

30 " oats 30 " oats 

30 " buckwheat 20 " buckwheat 

The following dry mash is fed in a hopper kept open during the 
afternoon only : 

By Weight 
Winter and Summer 
60 lbs. corn meal 



60 
30 
10 
10 
50 
1 



wheat middlings 
wheat bran 
alfalfa meal 
oil meal 
beef scrap 
salt 



By 


Measure 


'^ inter 


and Summer 


57 qts 


. corn meal 


71 " 


wheat middlings 


57 " 


wheat bran 


20 " 


alfalfa meal 


8 " 


oil meal 


43 " 


beef scrap 


V- " 


salt 



The fowls should eat about one-half as much mash by weight as 
whole grain. Regulate the proportion of grain and ground feed by 
giving a light feeding of grain in the morning and about all they 
will consume at the afternoon feeding (in time to find grain before 
dark). In case of pullets or fowls in heavy laying, restrict both 
night and morning feeding to induce heavy eating of dry mash, 
especially in the case of hens. This ration should be supplemented 
with beets, cabbage, sprouted oats, green clover or other succulent 
food, unless running on grass covered range. Grit, cracked oyster 
shells and charcoal should be accessible at all times. Green food 
should not be fed in a frozen condition. All feed and litter used 



92 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

should be strictly sweet, clean and free from mustiness, mould or 
decay. Serious losses frequently occur from disease, due to the 
fowls taking into their bodies, through their intestinal tract or lungs, 
the spores of the fungus causing moulds. — Dept. of Poultry Hus- 
bandry, Cornell University. 

Contest Rations. 

At the ^^^ contest at Storrs, Conn., the following grain mixture 
was fed : 

Coarse wheat bran 200 pounds 

Cornmeal 100 

Gluten feed 100 

Standard middlings 75 

Fish scrap 30 

Beef scrap 30 

Low grade flour 25 

There were little boxes holding grit, shells and charcoal which the 
hens took as they liked. There was also provided a "scratch grain" 
made up as follows : 

Cracked corn BO pounds 

Wheat 60 

Heavy white oats 40 

Barley 20 

Kafir corn 10 

Buckwheat 10 

Coarse beef scrap 10 



OTHER GOOD FEEDING MIXTURES. 

No. 1. 

Dry Mash. 

C^orn meal 10 pounds 

Wheat bran 10 " 

Wheat middlings 10 " 

Oil meal 5 " 

Beef scrap 5 " 

No. 2. 
Young Chicks on the Range. 

Boil rice until well done. When thoroughly cooked, mix it with 
one-half the quantity of white corn-meal. Add cold water sufficient 
to make a good soft dough. Grease a baking tin, spread this dough 
thinly over the pan, and bake until well done. Soften with cold 
water and feed the chicks on this mixture. It will cause them to 
grow surprisingly fast and very strong. This food is said to be, also, 
a good preventive of bowel troubles. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



93 



No. 3. 
Dry Feeding. 

Cracked corn 

Whole wheat 

Oats 

Scatter in tlie litter morning and a1 noon 

No. 4. 

Cracked corn 

Wheat 

Oats 

Use with this the following dry mash: 

Corn meal 

Wheat middlings 

Wheat bran 

Meat scraps 

Oil meal 

Alfalfa meal '. 

Fine charcoal 

Salt 

No. 5. 

Cracked corn 

Wheat 

Oats 

Use with this the following dry mash : 

Corn meal 

Wheat bran 

Meat scraps 

Wheat middlings 



200 pounds 

360 " 

130 " 

to indnee exercise. 

15 pounds 
10 " 

5 '' 

8 pounds 
12 



2 

2 

1/2 OZ. 



No. 6. 

Cracked corn 

Whole wheat 

Buckwheat 

Oats 

Feed with this the following mash : 

Bran 

Corn meal 

Middlings 

Ground oats 

Ground bone 



4 pounds 
2 " 



3 pounds 
2 '* 
2 " 
1 " 



1 bushel 
1 " 
1 peck 
1/2 bushel 

200 pounds 
100 " 
100 " 

50 " 

10 " 



Give directions for providing rape? 

Fit the ground as if for Avheat, sow the rape broadcast and cover 
lightly. In six weeks it will be ready for the hens. The writer 
once divided his hen-yard into two parts, sowing both to rape. 
While the hens were in one part, the other was closed. Rape will 
come up again, if not eaten down too closely ; so by alternating the 
two parts, he kept his hens supplied with green food all summer, 



94 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

although not on free range. As soon as the hens were turned into 
the rape, they consumed only about one-half the usual amount of dry 
rations and their egg production was increased. It seems that few 
poultrymen realize the importance of Dwarf Essex rape as a green 
ration for hens. 

What conditions are essential for the winter production of eggsf 

Warm houses, a balanced ration containing plenty of green 
feed, meat scraps, grit and exercise. 

Is artificial heating of the poultry house advisable f 

No ; artificial heating will do more harm than good. See that 
there are no cracks in the building; let the roof be low, just over 
the roosts ; give the hens the right kind of feed at the right time ; 
make them scratch for their living in the litter, and you will get 
eggs. The exercise is absolutely essential. Hens that gulp down all 
the food they can hold then stand around in groups do not lay. 

How should eggs he sorted for the high-class market? 

To command a fancy price, eggs must be strictly fresh, and uni- 
form in size, color and shape. It costs no more to produce fancy 
eggs than it does to produce common ones, and the express charges 
on them are the same. Often, by a little sorting, five to ten cents 
per dozen above the market price may be obtained. The New York 
market prefers white eggs ; the Boston market, brown eggs. 

How may good laying hens he obtained f 

The only method of developing a flock of good layers is l)y care- 
ful selection by the aid of trap nests. It has been learned that the 
good layers are not any particular breed, but a carefully selected and 
developed strain, of some breed. 

What are some of the signs of good layers? 

1. The best layers always moult last. If a hen has grown new 
feathers by October 1, she is probably unprofitable. 

2. The shanks of the best layers are usually colorless. 

3. A smooth and velvety comb is the sign of a good layer. 

What have the recent egg-laying contests taught poultrymen? 

Charles L. Opperman has summed up, for The Country Gentle- 
man, the following facts : 

That the 200-egg hen is a very substantial present-day reality. 

That it is possible for the domestic fowl to produce more than 
250 eggs in 365 consecutive days. 

That high fecundity is primarily a question of strain or family 
rather than of breed. 

That the selection and mating of highly prolific birds can result 
in a marked improvement of the average egg production. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 95 



That the continued selection of breedinac stock upon lines that 
emphasize inherent tendency to ovarian activity is inclined to alter 
the weight and conformation of certain pure breeds. 

That the average weight of the eggs from both high and low 
producing strains can be materially increased through selective 
breeding. 

That the trap nest or the single-bird pen is the only absolute 
index to a bird's capacity for ^g^ production. 

That when other things are equal the so-called mongrel may be 
the equal, if not the superior, of many strains of pure-breds. 

That the absence of male birds from the laying pens does not 
affect the egg yield. 

That the heavier breeds are the best winter layers. 

That an abundant supply of plain, wholesome feed in conjunc- 
tion with proper housing and management is conducive to increased 
production. 

That the cost of feeding does not in itself make for profit or loss 
in the poultry business. 

That the efficiency of different so-called standard rations cannot 
be exactly determined from their use in connection with small ex- 
perimental pens of birds of unknown performance. 

Mention the principal essentials of a proper poultry house. 

1. Build on soil where there is a natural drainage. Dampness 
is fatal to chickens. 

2. The house should be warm, well ventilated and free from 
drafts. 

3. Let the house face the south and have windows on the south 
and east sides. Sunlight not only prevents the development of 
germs, but it has a vitalizing affect upon the fowls. Too much of 
it can not be had, especially in winter. 

4. The roosts should all be on the same level. The natural 
instinct in birds is to seek high places for safety. If there are no 
high places, there will be no crowding or commotion at roosting 
time. 

5. Ventilation may be obtained by muslin windows on the 
south side. They allow the air to enter, but prevent drafts. 

6. Use dropping boards under the roosts. This will give more 
floor space, help to keep the hens warmer in cold weather and allow 
the droppings to be more easily removed. 

7. A good plan is to build the nests under the front edge of the 
dropping boards, with openings behind and a hinged door in front 
that may be lowered when collecting the eggs. This will give the 
hens the privacy which they like when laying. There should be a 
platform back of the nests wide enough for the hens to walk on. 

8. There should be provided a dust box, located where the sun 
can reach it. Keep it well filled with fine road dust. 



96 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

9. Besides the dust box the essential "poultry furniture" con- 
sists of drinking fountains, self-feeding hoppers for dry mash, feed 
troughs and grit boxes. The drinking fountains will not be so 
easily contaminated, if they are raised on a small platform a foot or 
so above the floor. 

The Missouri College of Agriculture, suggests the following for 
"hen-happiness and a full egg basket:" 

Allow each hen four square feet of floor space. 

Provide one square foot of glass to every fifteen square feet of 
floor space. 

Locate the windows on the south side and place the tops not 
quite half as high as the house is wide. 

Ventilate by placing one square foot of muslin to every fifteen 
square feet of floor space, or by making a slat front similar to the 
cupolas in barns. Be sure the house is free from cracks and that 
there are no openings for drafts on the back, ends and roof. 

Build a floor eight inches higher than the surrounding ground. 
Fill in four inches of coarse stone, then two inches of clay and then 
two of dirt. This will make a dry floor. 

Provide eight to ten inches of roosting space and one nest to 
every six hens. 

Cover the floor with a foot or eighteen inches of straw. Peed 
the grain in the straw so as to encourage exercise. 

What are the rules for taking care of the poultry house? 

Keep it clean. This may be done by spraying, whitewashing 
and providing fresh clean litter. See that there is absolutely no ac- 
cumulation of dampness. The nests should ahvays be provided with 
clean dry straw and be free from lice. Lice and mites are formid- 
able enemies of the poultry business. Unless you are prepared to 
keep them in check, you had better take up some other occupation. 

What are the best methods for combating lice and mites? 

The preparations given under "Useful Formulas" may be used 
successfully. One of the most convenient commercial preparations 
is ' ' Chemo, ' ' manufactured and sold by The Chemo Co., Buffalo, N. Y. 
An excellent hand sprayer is furnished with the liquid. 



POULTRY TROUBLES AND THEIR REMEDIES. 

If all the required conditions regarding sanitation, pure food and 
feeding are complied with, there will be few poultry troubles. The 
poultryman should know that if his fowls begin to die off, something 
is wrong, and he should locate that trouble and correct it. Usually it 
is dampness, filth, poor ventilation, too crowded quarters, drafts, cold, 
over feeding, or impure food. Following are some of the more common 
troubles and suggested remedies : 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 97 

BUMBLEFOOT. — The foot begins swelling at the toes and soon 
becomes large and clumsy. It is the result of an infection through 
some abrasion of the skin caused, perhaps, by jumping from a high 
roost to a hard floor. 

Remedy. — Soak the foot in warm water and clean thoroughly. 
Remove any foreign substance; any soft place indicates puss, open 
with a sharp knife. Bathe the foot in a solution of carbolic acid and 
water, one teaspoonful to ten of water, and anoint with carbolized 
vaseline. Often the trouble may be remedied by putting on a warm 
linseed meal poultice, and after a half day lance where the skin seems 
the thinnest. Keep the fowl upon soft litter. 

LIMBERNECK.— The bird is unable to control the head which 
droops to the ground. It is caused by eating putrid meat. 

Remedy. — Remove the cause. Give 3 or 4 teaspoonfuls of castor 
oil for a grown fowl. If not cured within 3 or 4 days it is not advisable 
to keep it. 

SCALY LEG. — This is caused by a parasite which lives under 
the scales of the legs, causing them to assume a rough, lifeless appear- 
ance. 

Remedy. — Dip the legs in coal tar, kerosene oil, or rub them with 
carbolized vaseline. 

GAPES. — The fowls keep opening their bills as though trying to 
swallow. It is caused by one or several forked red worms in the wind- 
pipe. 

Remedy. — Make a double loop of horse hair, put it into the wind- 
pipe, turn it and pull the worms out. If this method can not be used, 
remove all tiie barbules from a long feather, except those at the tip, 
moisten with a mixture of oil of cloves and sweet oil, and insert gently 
into the windpipe of the fowl. Twist the feather around several 
times and draw it out. It will remove some of the worms and kill the 
others. 

WHITE DIARRHEA.— The droppings become white and 
watery ; the fowl stands around in a listless attitude with head down 
and eyes closed. 

Remedy. — The writer has discovered no remedy for this disease. 
A good preventive is venetion red dissolved in the drinking water, 1 
heaping teaspoonful to each pint of water. 

ROUP. — Symptoms are a discharge from the nasal openings, dul- 
ness, prostration and fever. The discharge is at first thin and watery, 
but in two or three days become thick and obstructs the breathing. 

Remedy. — Remove the bird from the flock and place in a warm, 
well ventilated room, free from drafts of air. Plunge the fowl's head, 
for a second or two, into a solution of 1 ounce of boric acid to 1 quart 
of water. Spraying the bird's head with kerosene oil is often very 
effective. 



98 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

CROP BOUND.— The first symptom is a loss of appetite or an 
effort to swallow without being able to do so. The crop is seen to be 
large, firm and much distended. If no help is given, the conditions 
become aggravated, the breathing difficult, and death may result. 

Remedy. — Force the bird to swallow a teaspoonful of sweet oil, 
then work the crop with the fingers, endeavoring to force some of the 
food out through the gullet. If this can not be done, the crop may be 
opened about an inch and the contents removed with a spoon or 
button hook. After this is done, wash out the crop with clean, warm 
water, sew up the openings, both in the crop and skin, using the 
best silk, and making four separate stitches in each cut. 

Feed on milk and raw eggs beaten together for a day or two, 
and gradually change to soft mash. 

FEATHER-EATING.— This is the result of a depraved appetite, 
and may be caused by too close confinement, or lack of animal matter 
in the food. 

Remedy. — Give plenty of grit and animal food and a free run, if 
possible. See that mites do not trouble them at night. 

VERTIGO. — The bird throws its head upward, backward or to 
one side. It may be caused by too much heat or direct sunlight. 

Remedy. — Place the bird in a cool, shady place. Holding its head 
under a stream of cold water will often effect a cure. 



POULTBY DON'TS. 

Don't begin on too large a scale; work up. 

Don't tolerate lice, dampness or filth. 

Don't feed young chicks until they are two days old. 

Don't allow sick hens in the same pen with healthy ones. 

Don't frighten the hens. 

Don't neglect to provide meat and grit. 

Don't allow the hens to eat rotten food of any kind. 

Don 't neglect to supply pure water at all times. 

Don't over feed. 

Don't change rations abruptly. 

Don't neglect to provide green food for winter. 

Don't forget that it is the busy hens that produce the eggs. 

Don't keep a lot of "boarders." 

Don't feed mouldy grain of any kind. 

Don't forget that sour milk is good for hens and chicks. 

Don't neglect to put a little fresh lard, vaseline or sweet oil on 
the heads, under the wings and around the vents of hen-hatched 
chicks to kill and keep off the lice — don't use kerosene. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 99 

DoF 't expect to get as many eggs in the winter as in the spring 
or summer. 

Don't forget that sulphur is a great germ killer. A spoonful 
or two in the mash once a week will help to ward off disease. 

Don't feed poultry tonics or other patent nostrums. 

Don't keep too many fowls in too small a space. 

Don't let your hens trespass upon your neighbors. 

Don't expect all the eggs to be fertile, if the cockerel runs with 
more than 15 hens. 

Don't breed from immature pullets or from poor layers. 

Don't forget that only careful selection and the weeding out 
of the poor ones can produce a flock of good layers. 

Don't keep a hen longer than three years; two years is the 
limit with many. 



100 TEE FARMEBS' GUIDE BOOK 



PROFITABLE DAIRYING. 

Into what two types may cattle he divided? 
Into dairy cattle and beef cattle. 

Mention the chief differences between dairy and beef cattle. 

The following table gives the principal characteristics of each 
type : 

Dairy. Beef. 

Form Wedge-shaped Rectangular. 

Head Small, long, narrow. Larger and thicker. 

Eyes Bright, prominent. Same. 

Muzzle ]\Iouth and nostrils large. Same. 

Neck Fine,medium length,thin Short, thick. 

Shoulders Thin, lean, bony. Heavy, well-fleshed. 

Back Crooked. Straight. 

Flank High. Low. 

Thighs Thin. Full, heavy. 

Udder and milk veins. . . Large prominent. Small. 

Skin and hair Soft and pliable. Same. 

Mention the chief dairy breeds found in the United States, giving 

principal characteristics and place of origin. 

Holstein-Friesian — large, white, with black patches ; from Hol- 
land. 

Ayrshire — medium in size, varying in color from red and brown 
to white, horns usually turning upward ; from the county of Ayr in 
Scotland. 

Brown Swiss — a shade from light to dark brown, a light tuft of 
hair between the horns, a narrow line along the back, black nose, with 
mouth surrounded by a meal-colored band; tongue and hoofs black, 
horns with black tips ; from Switzerland. 

Dutch Belted — about the same as Holstein-Friesian, except that a 
broad, white belt surrounds the body ; from Holland. 

Guernsey — a little larger than the Jerseys, hair yellow or reddish 
fawn color, skin yellow, nose flesh-colored ; from the Island of Guern- 
sey. 

Jersey — small, gray or fawn colored, v/ith black noses; from the 
Island of Jersey. 

Mention the leading beef types found in the United States, with place 
of origin. 

Shorthorn, or Durham, from England. 

Hereford, from England. 

Polled (hornless) Hereford, developed in the United States. 

Aberdeen- Angus, from Scotland. 

Polled Durham, developed in the United States. 

Galloways, from Scotland. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 101 



Which is the most profitable beef breed for the American farmer? 

Although opinions differ, the Herefords can be well recommended. 
They are very hardy, endure extremes of temperature well, and their 
young develop early. They are distinguished by their white faces. 

What should be the attitude of the dairyman toward the beef breeds 

of cattle ? 

The dairyman who farms for profit should use care not to intro- 
duce any strain of the beef types into his herd. 

How may a dairy be obto/ined? 

1. By purchasing the entire herd from some farmer who is selling 
his farm or going into other business ; 2. By raising it yourself ; 3. By 
buying the cows in small lots from different farmers; 4. Purchasing 
from dealers who make a business of buying and selling. 

What cautions should be observed in buying a dairy? 

Nearly every farmer is trying to breed uji and develop his herrl. 
He will sell his best cows only at an exorbitant figure. He is, however, 
ready and anxious to dispose of his culls, the "boarders", very hard 
milkers, jumpers, kickers, and others that are undesirable. The be- 
ginner who procures a picked-up dairy will, usually, find himself in 
posession of a herd that is not only unprofitable, but difficult to keep 
within bounds. Only a person who has owned a dairy of this kind 
can understand the annoyances, losses and discomfitures that it will 
cause him. 

What breed of cattle shall I buy? 

This depends upon the individual tastes and the purpose for 
which the cows are kept. If for shipping milk to the city, Holsteins 
are the best ; if for cream, Guernseys or Jerseys are preferable. 

// for cream, which would be better, Guernseys or Jcrseysf 

Although opinions differ, the writer believes that, for cream, the 
Guernsey would prove more satisfactory. They are hardier, more 
tractable and give more milk, which averages almost as much butter 
fat as that of the Jerseys. 

A breed of cattle can not be judged by two or three individual 
records. Now and then a Holstein will give richer milk than some 
Jerseys, and often a Jersey will give more milk than some Holsteins. 

COW DON'TS. 

Don 't run your cows. 
Don't neglect to dehorn the calves. 

Don't keep cows that are unprofitable; use the scales and Babcock 
test. 

Don 't breed too young. 

Don't expect much from a cross between a Holstein and a Jersey. 



102 TEE F A R M E RS' GUIDE BOOK 

Don't try to raise all your feed, if your land is better adapted to 
something else. 

Don't keep beef breeds, if you are in the business for milk. 

Don't forget that cows need a variety of feed. 

Don't expect much milk from timothy hay alone. 

Don't teach your cattle to become unruly by tempting them to 
jump over poor fences. 

Don't neglect your pasture. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 103 



COW TROUBLES AND THEIR REMEDIES. 

Choked — When a cow becomes choked the ol)struction usually 
lodges either at the entrance of the wind-pipe or down in the gullet 
(oesophagus), close to the stomach. The first is known as "high 
choke" and the second "low choke." 

In the first case the hand may he passed into the animal's throat 
and the object causing the choke grasped and drawn out. If the 
attendant is timid about passing his arm into the animal's mouth, 
the operation may be made safer by having an assistant hold a clevis 
in the mouth in order to keep the jaws apart. If it is a "low choke," 
a piece of rubber hose from 6 to 10 feet in length may be passed 
carefully down the animal's throat, taking care that it does not pass 
toward "the lungs, and on reaching the obstruction carefully pressed 
against it causing it to move into the stomach. If the hose is passed 
toward the lungs, it can easily be determined by ])assing the opposite 
end near the cheek and noting if air passes in and out as Ihe animal 
breathes. 

Bloating — If the cow is badly bloated, it is usually necessary to 
tap the animal at once. A special instrument, known as a trocar, 
is made for this purpose, but an ordinary pocket knife may be used. 
The small blade may be thrust through the animal's side into the 
paunch, and by turning the blade edge-wise to the cut the gas may be 
allowed to escape. The point for making the puncture should be on 
the left side, just back of the last rib, and from six to eight inches 
from the line of the back bone. If the case is not so urgent, i-elief may 
usually be obtained by placing a gag in the animal's itioutli. For 
this purpose a round stick about two inches in diameter and a foot 
long will be needed. A rough one can be used by first wrapping in 
cloth. Press the stick back close to the corners of the mouth and hold 
in place by a string tied to each end and passing over the animal's 
head.. 

Standing the animal with fore-quarters elevated is beneficial in 
helping the gas to escape ; also bathing the flanks with warm water 
will prove useful, by stimulating contraction of the stomach. 

Hard Udders — Hard udders are due to an inflammation of the 
gland, usually due to bacterial infection. Simple inflammation of the 
udder, which comes on immediately after freshening, is usually due 
to the active changes taking place in the gland at this period and is 
less serious. Too rich a diet frequently hastens the trouble, especially 
among heifers. In this condition, place the cow on a light diet and 
give a drench of one pound of Epsom salts dissolved in water. A 
drench is given by turning the liquid down the animal's throat fi-om 
a long-necked bottle. ? 

If the hard udder develops at a later period and is due to bacteria, 
rub it thoroughly two or three times daily with a hot ointment of 



104 THE F AK 31 E R S' G V I D E BOOK 

equal parts of lard and turpentine. Milk frequently. Keep the bowels 
loose by an initial drench of one pound of Epsom salts dissolved in 
two quarts of water, then-half-pound doses repeated daily. 

Milk Fever — Procure a common bicycle pump and a 3-inch silver 
or glass milking tube. Insert the tube in the teat and pump the 
udder full of air. This is an almost sure cure. Care should be taken 
that the pump and tube are perfectly clean and that only pure air 
is pumped in. 

Gargeted Milk — Gargeted milk is milk which has become changed 
in the udder, the solids separating from the fluid portion. It is 
generally caused by the presence of bacteria in the milk glands. 
Treat same as for ropy milk (See under "Milk"), washing with 
antiseptics daily and milking last to prevent spreading to others. 
Fluid extract of Poke-root, one-half ounce in a pint of water, given 
three times daily as a drench, or given in the feed is very beneticial. 
Continue treatment for several days. 

Cows Gnawing Bones or Eating Foreign Material — This condi- 
tion is known as pica and is due to a depraved appetite on the part 
of the animal. Alkaline ar salty tasting substances are especially 
attractive to cows in this condition. The disease may last for months. 
In some cases the animal becomes poor and even dies. The condition 
is generally supposed to be due to the lack of some of the necessary 
salts in the food or water. It may be due to imperfect digestion or 
assimilation on the part of the animal. The treatment consists in 
improving the digestion and the following prescription is recom- 
mended : 

Iron sulphate 2 ounces 

Powdered nux vomica 4 ounces 

Powdered gentian root 8 ounces 

Common salt 8 ounces 

Arsenous acid 1 dram 

Give a tablespoonful of this mixture twice a day with the feed. 
Continue the treatment until the animal is cured. 

Abortion — This is a serious trouble and may be caused by injury 
or infection. It is easily communicated to other animals of the herd. 
Remove the cow from herd at once. Syringe the womb with 1 gallon 
of warm water containing 1 ounce of creolin and continue daily until 
no discharge is seen. Disinfect stables thoroughly. Do not let the 
cow go to bull for at least two months after aborting. 

Hoof Disease — Usually caused by filthy stables, or standing in 
dirty water or mud. Shave off loose part and wash with warm water 
and moisten twice daily with a solution of 1 ounce chloride of zinc 
in 1 pint of soft water. . 

Syore Teats — Rub on, after milking, carbolated vaseline, which 
may be purchased at any drug store. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 105 

Tuberculosis — Often introduced into the herd through milk froiri 
the creamery. The syrnptoins are usually not noticeable in the early 
stages of the disease. Later symptoms are loss of flesh, loss of appe- 
tite, listlessness, a short, dry cough, diarrhoea, etc. Early stages of 
the disease may be detected by the tuberculin test, which consists of 
tirst taking the temperature for several days, then injecting tuber- 
culin under the skin, and testing for a rise in temperature the follow- 
ing day. If there is no rise in the temperature, the cow does not 
have the disease. There is no cure, if present. 



106 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



MILK, 

Why is milk a good food for all young animals? 

Milk contains, in the right proportions, all the nutrients needed to 
nourish and build up the body. It is the most perfect food known. 

What is the composition of milk? 

Every 100 pounds of milk contains about the following constit- 
uents : 

Water 87 pounds 

Fat 4 pounds 

Milk sugar 5 pounds 

Casein and albumen 3.3 pounds 

Mineral matter 0.7 pounds 

Total 100 pounds 

What is meant hy rich milk? 

By rich milk is meant a milk that contains a high percentage of 
butter fat. The milk of the different breeds of cattle differ in this 
respect. The New York Agricultural Experiment Station, after a 
great many tests, gives the following averages : 

Holstein-Friesian 3.4% 

Ayrshire 3.6%. 

Shorthorn 4.4% 

Devons 4.6 /^^ 

Guernsey 5.5% 

Jersey 5.6%. 

How does the richness of tlic milk from the same cow vary? 

1. The milk is richer in fat just before the cow dries up. 

2. The last of the milk drawn is richer than the first. 

The feed has very little effect on the richness of the milk, its 
percent of butter fat depending almost entirely upon the cow. 

What are some of the characteristics of milk? 

While milk is usually the most valuable product of the farm, it is, 
also, of a very perishable nature. Bacteria of all kinds flourish in it 
and it quickly absorbs bad odors. It is only the clean milk that will 
retain its original character for any length of time. 

Hoiv may the farmer produce clean milk? 

By keeping the cow and her surroundings clean and wholesome. 
The stable should be sealed with matched lumber and no cobwebs or 
dust be allowed to accumulate. There should be plenty of window 
space and good ventilation. The cows and milkers must both be 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 107 

healthy, the cows clean, the milk utensils of the best quality, clean 
and sterilized. The cows must have good feed and pure water. They 
should always be milked before feeding. 

What causes milk to sour? 

Sour milk is caused by bacteria which develop in it an acid 
(lactic) from the milk sugar. To prevent the development of bacteria, 
the milk should be cooled at once and kept cool. 

What is the source of bacteria in milk? 

itacteria get into milk after it is drawn, milk from healthy 
cows being free from them. All particles of dust and dirt carry with 
them multitudes of bacteria which remain after the dirt particles have 
been strained out. If black specks of dirt appear on the foam above 
the milk, the conditions of cleanliness are not what thej should be. 

Wliat is sterilized milk? 

Sterilized milk is milk that is heated to the boiling point, or above 
it under pressure. Milk is seldom sterilized as the process coagulates 
the albumen and changes the flavor of the milk slightly. Pasteurized 
milk is often spoken of as sterilized milk. 

What is pasteurized milk? 

Pasteurized milk is milk that has been heated to a temperature 
high enough to kill disease-causing germs and then cooled to 50° F., or 
lower. Usually the milk is heated to 345° and kept there for thirty 
minutes. If heated above 145°, one minute may be subtracted from 
the thirty minutes for every degree above 145° to which the milk is 
heated. 

What is certified milk ? 

Certified milk is milk produced under legal contract between a 
dairyman and a medical milk association. Certified milk undergoes no 
process of purification, but is produced under the most sanitary con- 
ditions possible. The stables are kept scrupulously clean, the milkers 
wear clean, white milking suits, the cows are thoroughly brushed and 
their udders and flanks wiped with a damp cloth, the milker's hands 
must be absolutely clean and washed after each milking, in short, 
every possible precaution is taken to prevent germs entering the milk. 

Is pasteurized milk more desirable for general consumption than un- 
pasteurized milk? 

In general, it may be said that if milk is not suitable for food 
without being pasteurized, it is not suitable at all. While pasteuriza- 
tion undoubtedly destroys many disease-causing germs, it often covers 
up worse conditions. The harmful products of filth accumulated by 
careless milking still remain. Besides, the bacteria which cause the 
natural souring of milk and tell us when it is unfit for infants and 
invalids are destroyed. Many of the stomach disorders from which 
infants suffer may be traced to pasteurized milk. 



108 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

What special care should he exercised in choosing milk utensils? 

All milk utensils should be heavily tinned and as free from seams 
as is possible to make them. All crevices and seams should be tlushed 
full with solder. If pails of this kind can not be purchased, take 
them to your local tinner and have him fix them for you. 

What causes bad flavors in milkf 

Bad flavors in milk may be caused by dirt, foul odors in the stable, 
bacteria, or conditions found in the cow. If the cow has digestive 
disorders of any sort her milk will be affected. If the cow is milked 
within a few weeks of calving time, the milk will become bitter. Milk 
that has a ' ' barny ' ' smell is unfit for human use. Certain feeds, such 
as leeks, turnips, cabbage, rape and rye taint the milk more or less, 
especially if fed just before milking time. 

What is the cause and cure of ropy milk? 

Ropy milk is caused by fungi which develop in the milk after it 
is drawn. They are microscopic plants which grow into long filaments 
so that the milk becomes stringy, or ropy. The source is probably due 
to stagnant pools of water, and a cow becoming infected may spread 
it to others. To get rid of it, remove the cause. See that the cows have 
access to plenty of pure water. Determine which cows are affected 
and milk them after the others. Cleanse the udders of all suspected 
cows, once a day, with a one percent solution of carbolic acid or 
creolin. The hands of the milkers should be washed in an anticeptic 
solution after milking the affected animals. All milking utensils 
should be thoroughly washed and scalded after using. With these 
precautions the conditions usually do not last longer than ten days or 
two weeks. 

T)o thunder showers hasten the souring of milk? 

Thunder showers cause milk to sour quickly, although the process 
is not well understood. Bacteriologists have attempted to explain it 
as a result of the warmer or more humid amosphere existing just 
before a shower; but this is unsatisfactory, since milk in refrigerators 
seems to be affected much the same way. 

Are milking machines a success? 

Milking machines have passed the stage of experiment and are 
now considered necessities by many dairymen. With one of them one 
man can easily do the work of four good milkers, and the milk will 
be much cleaner. Care must be taken that the machine is properly 
installed and that the engine runs at uniform speed. Cleanliness here, 
as with all other milk-handling devices, is absolutely essential to 
success. 

Will it pay a farmer to own a cream separator? 

If a farmer owns at least ten cows, a separator will be profitable. 
If however, a separator is used, a milk house will be almost a necessity. 
The machine must have a solid, unyielding, absolutely level founda- 



Vt^EFlJL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMIXa 109 

lion. If a large amount of milk is to lie separated, a small engine will 
be needed to turn the machine and this will necessitate a speed regu- 
lator. Water will be needed to cool the cream. All these matters 
should be taken into consideration before buying a machine. 

What are the most reliable makes of cream separators? 

Each manufacturer will swear that his machine is the best and 
then proceed to prove it. The writer does not advise purchasing the 
cheap machines sent out by the mail order houses. The Sharpless, 
De Laval and United States are all good. Send to each firm for their 
literature before you buy. If possible have one or more set up for a 
trial test. You will find that some are more easily cleaned than others, 
which may be an important consideration. 

Hoiv much milk will a cow produce in a ijearf 

A good dairy cow should produce 5,000 pounds of milk per year. 
If she produces less than 3,000 pounds, she is a "boarder" and un- 
profitable. Get rid of her. A (]uart of milk weighs 2.15 pounds. 

What are the general directions for home butter making? 

1. Cool the cream from the separator as soon as possible to 55° F. 
or lower. 

2. Never mix warm <,'reain with coo! cream. 

3. ]\Tix all cream to be churned in one vat or can, at least 
eighteen iiuurs ueioie cimriniig. 

4. Ripen at a temperature of 70° to 75° F. for from six to eight 
hours, stirring it frequently during this period. 

5. Cool cream to churning temperature as soon as ripe. 

G. Let the cream stand eight hours or more (over night) at the 
churning temperature. 

7. The temperature of churning should be such as to make the 
butter come in from thirty-five to forty minutes, usually 55° to 60° F. 

8. If it is desired to use artificial coloring, it should be added to 
the cream just before churning. 

9. Stop churning when the granules are about the size of peas, 
varying to wheat, and draw off the buttermilk. 

10. Wash the butter with cold water twice, by pouring it on 
and draining it off. Use as much cold water each time as half the 
amount of the buttermilk. 

11. Add the salt while the butter is in granular form, using 
about one to one and one-half ounces for each pound of butter, accord- 
ing to the demands of the market. 

12. Work the butter just enough to distribute the salt evenly. 

13. If the butter is to go on the market, it should be put in neat, 
attractive packages. 



110 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

MELK DON'TS. 

Don 't put milk in a vessel that has not previously been scalded. 

Don't try to sell impure milk. 

Don't tolerate wet milkers. 

Don't neglect to milk the cows clean. 

Don 't milk with dirty hands. 

Don 't set the milk down in the stable. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 111 



CALVES. 

Is it profitahle for the farmer to raise his own dairy? 

The advantages are all with the farmer. It is only the man with 
considerable capital who can go out and buy the class of cows that a 
dairyman can afford to keep. Besides, the high-priced cows are often 
disappointments, many not being as represented and some even prov- 
ing to be unprofitable. With pure bred sires, the descendants of well- 
known milking families for several generations, the farmer can start 
with a scrub herd and in a few years build up a splendid dairy. 
The cost will be much less. In fact, the cows will pay their way and 
reward the farmer for his efforts. 

What rules should govern the farmer in selecting the calves to he 

raised? 

Raise calves from only the good cows. The Babcock test and the 
scales, applied to each individual cow, are the only means by which her 
real merit can be known. The intelligent farmer will not waste his 
time and money raising calves from cows of unknown merit. If both 
the sire and mother are right, there need be little doubt as to the value 
of the offspring. 

What care should he taken of the young calf? 

Always let it suck the first milk of the mother. This contains a 
special physicing property that the young calf needs. After three days 
it may be taught to drink. The calf should always be kept in a waim, 
dry place with plenty of fresh air and sunlight. It will not grow if 
compelled to sleep on a cold, damp bed. 

How may a calf he taught to drink f 

With the palm upward insert two fingers into the calf's mouth so 
that it can suck in the air between them. Lower your hand into the 
pail and when the calf is sucking in the milk gently withdraw the 
fingers. This process repeated two or three times will usually be suf- 
ficient. Often the calf's head will have to be pushed downward, as it 
naturall.y looks upward for its nourishment. 

Give directions for feeding the young calf. 

Give the calf new milk three times a day for the first fourteen 
days. From the time the calf is ten days old the feed may be slightly 
increased ; but it should never be fed so much that it will not want 
more. More trouble and loss result from overfeeding than from any 
other cause. 

Hoiv may a calf he raised witJiout milk? 

The young calf should have fresh milk for at least two weeks. 
After this time a porridge composed of one part oil meal, one part 
white middlings and one part wheat bran may be gradually substitu- 
ted. Begin by boiling two spoonfuls in a pint of water and feed with 



1 12 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

milk. The araoimt of the porridge may be gradually increased and 
the milk diminished until only the porridge is used. Let the mixture 
come to a boil while it is being stirred, then let cool to milk warm. 
Feed three times a day, alwa.ys just enough so that the calf will want 
a little more. 

What changes may he made in the feed of the calf as it grdivs older? 
If the milk is being used for butter or sent to a creamery, the 
calf, when two weeks old, may be gradually started on the fresh 
separated milk. The change may be started when the calf is seven or 
eight days old and changed so gradually that it will be on a complete 
ration of separated milk when it is fourteen days old. At the time the 
change is being made stock molasses should be fed at the rate of one 
tablespoonful to a gallon of milk. If too much is fed, it will have a bad 
effect upon the bowels of the calf. The calf should get a meal ration 
as soon as it will begin to eat it, by feeding it dry in the bucket. The 
best meal ration for young calves is white shorts and oil meal, equal 
parts. 

How should tlie calf he fed. during the summer? 

Besides the ration as above given, the calf should get some grass 
or alfalfa hay. A good pasture is almost indispensable. The pasture 
should have plenty of shade and a covered shelter with dry bedding 
where the calf can sleep nights and get shelter from storms. All these 
details must be looked after, if you would be a suceesful dairyman. 

What causes diarrhea ("scoivers") in calves? 

Often it is caused by using sour, filthy feeding utensils. It may 
also be caused by over feeding, a too abrupt change in feed, or wet, 
filthy surroundings. Remove the cause. 

Hoiv may diarrhea in calves he cured? 

The following remedy is recommended by the Department of 
Agriculture in their treaties on the diseases of cattle in their revised 
edition, 1904: 

"Treatment will vary according to the nature and stage of the 
disease. When the disease is not wide-spread, but isolated cases only 
occur, it may be assumed to be a simple diarrhea and is easily dealt 
with. The first object is to remove irritant matter from stomach 
and bowels, and for this one or two ounces of castor oil may be given, 
according to the size of the calf. Reduce the milk by one-half or two- 
thirds. If the stools smell particularly sour, it may be replaced by 
one ounce calcined magnesia, and in any case a tablespoonful or two of 
lime-water must be given with each meal. Great harm is often done 
by giving opium and astringents at the outset. These merely serve to 
bind up the bowels and retain the irritant source of the trouble ; liter- 
ally 'to shut up the wolf in the sheepfold.' When the offending agents 
have been expelled in this way, carminatives and demulcent agents may 
be given — 1 dram anise water, 1 dram nitrate of bismuth, and 1 dram 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 11.3 

gum arable, three times a day. Under such a course, the consistency 
of the stools shoukl increase until in a day or two they become 
natural." 

A teaspoonful of dried blood, fed with the milk for a day or two, 
is a much simpler remedy and often proves effective. 

7.9 sour railk or whey harmful for calves? 

Calves mfiy be fed either sour milk or whey, that has not stood too 
long. Care should be taken that any animal's food ration be changed 
gradually' 

May calves he fed hay? If so, when? 

Most calves will begin to eat a little hay when they are six weeks 
old, after which a little fine clover hay or alfalfa may be fed to them 
to good advantage. It will often pay to buy alfalfa hay for this pur- 
pose. 

How may calves he vealed without whole milk? 

After about four days on the whole milk, sweet skimmed milk 
may be given. To this should be added gradually fine corn meal, or 
oil meal jelly. To make the jelly, boil oil meal in water until it forms 
a tliick paste. If kept cool, it will keep until used up. Begin by using 
a half-teacupful in the railk and increase slowly until a pint is used in 
the milk twice a day. 

Does the calf neml water? 

The calf will drink water at an early age, if it has an opportunity, 
since its skim milk ration does not give it all the moisture that it needs. 
This need of the calf for water is not generally understood. At feed- 
ing time the animal is not only hungry but very thirsty ; and, as a re- 
sult, gorges itself with milk or drinks too rapidly when it has a chance, 
often causing digestive troubles. Supply it with water at all times. 
A pasture containing running water is ideal for the calf. Its milk is 
its food ; water is its drink. 

How may the horns he prevented from growing? 

Press the hair back and rub the button thoroughly, as soon as it 
can be felt, with the moistened end of a stick of caustic potash, cov- 
ering a spot about as large as a silver quarter. One thorough treat- 
ment will usually be sufficient. 

CALF DON'TS. 

Don't overfeed. 

Don 't feed a young calf cold milk. 

Don't compel the calf to sleep on a wet bed. 

Don't change feed abruptly. 

Don't let the children worry the calves. 



114 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

Don 't put the calves in a pasture so small that it will not furnish 
enough grass. As the calves learn to eat grass, the less other feed they 
will need. 

Don't use fences that the calves can jump over, unless you want 
unruly cows. 

Don't put the calves to pasture too early in the spring or keep 
them out too late in the fall. 

Don 't let the flies keep the calves from growing. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 115 



FEEDING DAIRY COWS. 

What is the function of food? 

Food furnishes material for the development and growth of all 
the tissues; supplies heat, force and energy; furnishes material to re- 
pair waste and maintain life, and for special products, such as milk, 
eggs, wool, etc. 

How may foods be classified f 

Foods may be classified as protein, carbohydrates, fats and 
mineral matter. 

Wliat are protein foods? 

Protein foods are foods containing nitrogen. Protein is neces- 
sary to animal life, building up the muscles and tissues of the body 
and at times furnishing heat and energy as well as forming fat. 

What are carbohydrates? 

Carbohydrates are compounds of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, 
the last two in the proportion found in water. The principal carbohy- 
drates are the sugars, cellulose, starches and gums. They are essential 
to furnish energy and produce fat. The main source of carbohydrates 
is corn, though it is supplied in oats, barley, bran, middlings and grass 
forage, as rape, rye and oats, and to some extent in the protein foods. 

What mineral matter is used for food? 

Some of the minerals used as food are calcium, phosphorus, sod- 
ium, potassium, iron, etc. They are found, in combination with other 
substances, in nearly all food stuffs and some dissolved in water. 

What different food substances does stock need? 

Every living creature needs some of each class of foods. The 
minerals are so plentiful that no account need be taken of them. To 
supply a correct nutritive ratio for protein and carbohydrates plus the 
fats, is a problem for the modern farmer and stockman to solve. 

What is meant by a ''nutritive ratio?" 

By a "nutritive ratio" is meant the relation between the digestible 
protein and the digestable carbohydrates and fat in any food stuff. 
For example, 100 pounds of timothy hay contains 2.8 pounds of diges- 
tible protein and an equivalent of 46.6 pounds of carbohydrates in- 
cluding the fat equivalent. Dividing both the protein and the car- 
bohydrate equivalent by 2.8, we get the quotients, 1 and 16.6; 
therefore the "nutritive ratio" of timothy hay is 1; 16.6, too broad 
for the best purposes, as will presently be learned. 

What is a feeding standard? 

A feeding standard is a statement of the amount of dry matter, 
protein, carbohydrates and fats needed daily for an animal weighing 



116 THE FARMEBS' GUIDE BOOK 

1000 pounds. For example, it has been decided that a proper standard 
for a 1000-poimd cow giving 22 pounds of milk per day is an amount 
of feed equal to 29 pounds of dry matter, containing 2.5 pounds of 
protein, equal to 14.1 pounds of carbohydrates and fats combined. 

What is a halanced ration? 

A balanced ration is one in which the bulk and the digestible pro- 
tein and carbohydrates are in that proportion which will most econom- 
ically produce the particular results desired in feeding. The proper 
ratio for dairy cattle is about 1 :6. 

What is meant by "narrow" and "wide" rations? 

According to general usage, a ratio of protein to carbohydrates 
below 1 : 5.5 is "narrow," while one above 1 : 8 is "wide." 

What are the advantages of balanced rations? 

Balanced rations are apt to offer the best results, because the 
animal thus secures nutriments in much the same proportion that she 
utilizes them. There is no material excess to induce disarrangement 
of the digestive system, or to be wasted ; and there is less likelihood of 
unsupplied deficiencies. 

Are balanced rations absolutely necessary? 

Perfectly balanced rations are not practical or possible. All rny 
dairyman can do is to use the approximation which produces the best 
results. 

How can a dairyman balance his own rations? 

The dairyman can use Table IX as a guide in selecting a balanced 
ration for his stock. For example, — 

Looking down the list, he sees at once that it would be folly to 
attempt to winter his cattle on oat straw, because the ratio, 1 : 32, is 
far too broad. Since the table gives him the protein and carbohydrate 
equivalent in 100 pounds of any feed, he can find the amount in smaller 
portions and balance his rations as follows : 

Protein Carbohydrate equivalent 

20 lbs. of timothy contains 56 9.32 

4 lbs. cottonseed meal contains. .1.488 1.776 



2.048)2.048 11.096 

Gives a ratio of 1 to 5.4 

He sees that this ratio is a little too narrow, so tries 3 pounds of 
the meal, which comes nearer the required ratio, and is, also, somewhat 
cheaper. 

The New York State College of Agriculture gives the following 
plan for balancing rations in New York State. It is entitled : 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



117 



A READY METHOD FOR BALANCING A RATION FOR 
DAIRY COWS." 



LOW PROTEIN 
GROUP. 

Less than 12% total pro- 
tein. 

Com 10.3 

Oats 11.4 

Wheat 11.9 

Rye 11.3 

Barley 12.0 

Buckwheat 10.8 

Hominy Chop 10.5 

Dried beet pulp .... 8.1 
Corn and cob meal .. 8.5 
' ' PTeavy ' ' Foods Are 



TABLE. 

MEDIUM PROTEIN. 
GROUP. 

12% to 2.5% total pro- 
tein. 

Wheat bran 15.4 

Mixed wheat ff-ed . .16..3 
Standard wheat mid- 
dlings 16.9 

Rour Wheat Mid- 
dlings 19.2 

Cotton Seed feed... 20.0 
Buckwheat feed 

(shuck in) ,18.3 

Pea Meal 20.2 

Cull Beans 21.6 

In DARK FACED Type, 

Ordinary Type. 



HIGH PROTEIN 
GROUP. 

More than 25% total 
protein. 

Malt stir nits 26.3 

Linseed Oil Meal . . . ',3.9 
Cotton Seed Meal . .45.3 
Gluten Feed 25.0 

Brewers' dried 
grains 25.0 

Distillers' dried 
grains (corn) 31.2 

Buckwheat m i d d s 
(free from shuck) 26.7 

''Light" Foods In 



HOW TO USE THE TABLE. 

The ordinary coarse foods in tiie State of New York are mixed 
hay, cora silage and corn stalks or fodder. These are always similar 
in composition as far as the balance between protein and carbohydrates 
is concerned. 

The ration then is usually balanced on the grain tood. 

Ordinary grain foods may be conveniently divided into three 
groups: Low protein (less than 12%), Medium protein (12% to 25%) 
and High protein (over 25% ) . 

For the sake of variety it is advisable to use three grain foods. 

If one low protein food, one medium protein food and one high 
protein food are mixed together, equal parts by weight, the mixture 
will make a well balanced ration to be used with the ordinary mixed 
hay, silage or com fodder. 

If clover or alfalfa hay is largely used, less high protein food is 
necessary. 

In amount, in addition to what hay and silage she will readily 
eat, a cow, in full milk, giving 4% milk, or better, should have 1 pound 
of grain to 3 or 31/2 pounds of milk daily ; a cow giving milk with less 
than 4% of fat should have 1 pound of grain to SM.. or 4 pounds of 
milk. An ideal grain ration should weigh about 1 pound to the quart. 
To secure this, the mixture should contain at least one "light" food. 

What are concentrates? 

Concentrates are grains and meals. 



118 THE F ARM E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

Will stock do well on concentrates alone f 

All stock requires coarse feed. A German investigator, Emil V. 
"Wolff, decided, about the middle of the last century, that dairy cows 
should have 24.5 pounds of dry matter daily and that this should con- 
tain 2.5 pounds of digestible protein, 12.5 pounds of digestible car- 
bohydrates and .4 pounds of digestible fat, — nutritive ratio, 1 :5.4. 
This is known as the "Wolff Standard." More recent investigators 
have changed it somewhat and widened the ratio, especially for milk 
production. The farmer need not concern himself greatly about the 
exact ratio, provided he supplies food that contains the required 
nutrients. To be exact, a table would have to be made for each animal ; 
for, while one cow seems to thrive best on a certain amount of protein, 
others will require more or less for the same result. The successful 
dairyman studies the characteristics and needs of each animal. 

What are some of the important principles that should govern the 
feeding of dairy cows? 

1. The average cow requires about 24 pounds of digestible dry 
matter daily. 

2. Roughly, two-thirds of this digestible matter should be fur- 
nished in the form of roughage and one third in concentrates. 

3. Not less than two-thirds of the total dry matter should be 
digestible. 

4. Variety in feeds is required, if cows are to yield the best 
results. 

5. The succulence which in summer is found in pasture grass and 
which is so desirable a feature in a dairy ration, may be furnished 
during other seasons by silage or roots. 

6. Feed all the roughage a cow will clean up. 

7. Feed 1 pound of grain to every three or four pounds of milk 
yielded daily, varying according to the roughage supplied and the per 
cent of butter fat in the milk. The richer the milk, the more meal is 
required. 

8. A good arrangement for feeding is to feed one-half of the 
grain and silage in the morning and one-half at night after milking, 
and to feed hay after the other feeds are consumed. A little hay may 
be fed at noon, if desired. 

9. Vary the amount of feed according to the size and production 
of the individual cow. 

10. Salt regularly ; three-fourths of an ounce daily is sufficient. 

11. Water regularly, taking the chill off the water in the winter. 

12. Change from barn feed to pasture feed gradually in the 
spring. 

13. Feed grain in summer to high producing cows, varying the 
amount fed according to pasture supplies. 

14. Use soiling crops or silage to supplement short pastures. 

15. Keep dry cows in good flesh. 

16. Give laxative foods to a cow for a week previous to her fresh- 
ening. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 119 

17. Work up gradually to the full grain ration after freshening, 
taking two or three weeks to do this. 

18. Reduce the grain ration slowly as production decreases. 

19. Watch your cows and feed according to individual needs. 

20. Let all feed be fresh and clean. 

21. At the present price (1915) cottonseed meal is one of the 
cheapest protein feeds. 

What are the principal ivinter food stuffs for cattle? 

Timothy, red clover, alfalfa, corn fodder and stover, orchard grass, 
red top, alsike clover, mixed grasses and clover, oat straw, bean straw 
and millet. Study the feeding table to determine the relative values 
of these different rations. 

What are the characteristics of the more common feeds? 

Bulletin No. 114, Pennsylvania Station, gives the following charac- 
teristics under the heading, "Selecting Feeds" : 

ALFALFA MEAL, more convenient to handle than hay, much 
easier to adulterate, price usually excessive, rich in protein. 

BEET PULP, soaked up, a good substitute for silage or roots but 
higher in price. ' 

BRAN, (wheat) light, bulky, appetizing, high in mineral matter, 
high in crude fiber. Relatively expensive at present prices. 

BREWERS' GRAINS, rich in protein, very variable in composi- 
tion, bulky, must be fed with other feeds. 

BUCKWHEAT, low in protein — usually pays to sell it and buy 
back the middlings. 

BUCKWHEAT IMIDDLINGS, heavy, usually economical source 
of protein, tend to make soft, oily butter. 

BULKY FEED, bran, gluten feed, ajax flakes, distillers' grains, 
corn and cob meal. 

CONSTIPATING, cottonseed meal, corn fodder and hay. 

CORN, easily digested, usually cheapest source of energy. Pays 
to grind. 

CORN AND COB MEAL, bulky, considerable crude fiber, nearly 
equal to corn meal in ration because of bulky nature. Ground fine. 

COTTONSEED MEAL, high in protein, heavy, should be fed 
with something else, makes for hard butter, relatively cheap source of 
protein, ordinarily should not constiute more than one-third of the 
mixture. 

DISTILLERS' DRIED GRAINS, mostly corn, light, bulky, high 
in protein, not readilv eaten alone. 

DISTILLERS' "dried GRAINS, mostly rye. similar in charac- 
ter to the corn grains, lower in digestible protein. 

GLUTEN FEED, rich in protein, should be fed with other grains, 
usually a desirable and economical source of protein. 

HOMINY CHOP, usually economical source of energy, low in 
protein, palatable, heavy. Good substitute for corn meal if needed. 

LAXATIVE, oil meal, bran slightly, silage, roots. 



120 THE F A B M E B S' GUIDE BOOK 

MOLASSES FEEDS, usually high in waste materials and too 
high in price for their feed value. 

NOT PALATABLE, gluten feed, brewers' and distillers' grains, 
cottonseed meal. 

OATS, good feed, rich in mineral matter, high in crude fiber, not 
high enough in protein to use for balancing a ration, too expensive 
to feed at the past year's prices, good for calves, especially so if ground 
and hulls sifted out. 

PROPRIETARY FEEDS, usually variable in composition, fre- 
quently contain weed seed and useless waste material, high in fiber and 
relatively expensive for the amount of energy furnished, save labor of 
mixing. 

ROOTS, desirable substitute for silage, usually cost more to grow. 

SILAGE, succulent, appetizing, economical, low in protein, should 
be fed after milking, a little hay or dry fodder should always be fed 
with it. One of the best farm grown feeds for milk products. 

How has the up-to-date farmer solved the problem of economical 

feeding f 

By the use of the modern silo. A few acres of Indian corn prop- 
erly cared for and placed in the silo at the proper time and in the 
proper way will furnish as much feed as several times the acreage of 
timothy. It will, also, be more palatable to the cattle and better 
relished. The time has come when the American farmer can not 
afford to raise timothy, except for horse feed. He must produce his 
fodder on a smaller acreage, using the extra to raise his grain and 
for crops to sell. The practice of cutting 50 to 70 acres of timothy, 
as is the custom on most of the dairy farms of Western New York 
and then buying grain is suicidal as far as profit is concerned. 

SILOS AND SILAGE. 

What principles shoidd he observed in the construction of a silo? 

Build a good one, or none at all. The cylindrical form is the 
best. It should be air tight and height in proportion to its diameter, 
in order to get the proper pressure. The Modern Silage Methods gives 
the following table of capacities of different silos; also the required 
acreage for different numl)ers of cattle fed 40 pounds daily for six 

months. 

Capacity 
Tons 

26 

38 

49 

60 

61 

67 

83 

93 

97 
119 
151 
189 



liameter 


Depth 


Feet 


Feet 


10 


20 


12 


20 


12 


24 


12 


28 


14 


22 


14 


24 


14 


28 


14 


30 


16 


26 


16 


30 


18 


50 


18 


36 



Atos of cor;! 


N'n. of cows 


Acres 


Cows 


2.0 


8 


3.0 


11 


3.4 


13 


4.0 


15 


4.5 


17 


4.7 


19 


5.5 


22 


6.0 


23 


7.0 


26 


8.0 


29 


10.0 


37 


12.3 


45 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOB FARMING 121 



What is silage f 

Silage, also called ensilage, is the green food preserved in a silo. 

What crops may he used for silage f 

Cowpeas, soy-beans, clover, sorghum, peas, oats, millet, etc., have 
been used for silage, but Indian corn is preeminently the best crop for 
the New England and Western states. 

When should corn raised for silage be cutf 

Cut the corn when the ears are beginning to glaze. If too green, 
the silage is apt to sour and affect the milk ; if too mature, it is apt to 
mould and become unfit for fodder. 

Hoiv should corn be put info the silof 

It should be cut with a cutter into pieces about an inch long and 
carried into the silo with a blower. It should be well tread down as 
it comes in, especially around the edges. 

Why does not the feed put into the silo spoil? 

At first the mass heats and carbonic acid gas is formed. The heat 
partially cooks the food and all bacteria are destroyed. The oxygen 
being exhausted, tke food is preserved the same as canned corn or 
fruits which the housewife puts up for winter use. 

How shotdd silage he fedf 

Feed about two bushels per day, one in the morning and the other 
at night. Any other fodder that the farmer may have can be fed at 
noon, although the most satisfactory results are obtained by feeding 
alfalfa or some meal rich in protein to balance the somewhat wide ratio 
in the silage. 

Is silage good for horses ? 

Good silage is all right for horses ; but poor silage, especially that 
which shows blue mould, is injurious and should never be used. As a 
rule, it is safer to feed the horses alfalfa or timothy and grain. 

What is meant by * ^ soiling f" 

By "soiling" is meant bringing fodder fresh from the fields and 
feeding it to cattle confined in inclosures. Soiling is growing more 
popular each year and wonderful results from it have been reported. 
The objection to it is the labor involved. 

What are the best soiling crops? 

Winter rye (for early soiling), Indian corn, clover, alfalfa, oats 
and peas mixed. 

Which will produce better results, silage or soiling? 

In all recorded tests soiling has produced the greater milk flow. 



122 THE F A B M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

Summarize the Advantages of the Silo to the Farmer. 

Prof. J. H. Skinner, of Purdue University, has formulated the 
following ten reasons why every farmer should have a silo : 

1. The silo preserves the palatability and succulence of the 
green corn plant for winter feeding. 

2. It helps to make use of the entire corn plant. 

3. The silo increases the live stock capacity of the farm. 

4. Silage is a good summer feed when pastures are short. 

5. Because of the small amount of ground space required by the 
silo, it is an economical means of storing forage. 

6. The silo prevents waste of corn stalks, leaves and husks, 
which contain about two-fifths of the feeding value of the corn plant. 

7. The silo located near the feed manger is an assurance of hav- 
ing feed near at hand in stormy as well as fair weather. 

8. The silo assists in reducing the cost of grains in fattening 
cattle and sheep. 

9. Silage greatly increases the milk flow during the winter sea- 
son and decreases the cost of production. 

10. There are no stalks to bother in the manure when corn is 
put into silo. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOE FARMING 128 



GRAIN MIXTURES FOR MILK PRODUCTION. 

The following grain mixtures for milk production have been select- 
ed from those used by successful dairymen and those approved by ex- 
periment stations or suggested by reliable farm papers. No. 5 is the 
one used by Dr. H. W. Wiley at his famous farm, at Bluemont, Va. 

It is impossible to suggest mixtures that will fit all conditions, as 
much will necessarily depend upon what the farmer raises, what his 
roughage is, or what he can buy the cheapest. The mixtures given 
below are to supplement corn silage and roughage, unless otherwise 
stated. 

Feed 1 pound of the grain mixture to every 31/. or 4 pounds of 
milk, according to the percentage of butter fat. 

No. 1. 

Cottonseed meal 200 lbs. 

Buckwheat middlings 100 lbs. 

Corn and cob meal •'>00 lbs. 

Linseed meal ■'JO lbs. 

No. 2. 

Corn and cob meal 300 lbs. 

Buckwheat middlings 200 lbs. 

Wheat bran 100 lbs. 

Beet pulp 200 lbs. 

Oil meal -^0 l^s. 

No. 3. 

Cottonseed meal 300 lbs. 

Brewers ' grain 200 lbs. 

Corn and cob meal 200 lbs. 

Beet pulp 100 lbs. 

No. 4. 

Cottonseed meal 300 lbs. 

Distillers' dried grains 200 lbs. 

Wheat middlings 300 lbs. 

Corn meal 100 lbs. 

This mixture is to balance one of hay and straw : no silage. 

No. 5. 

Cottonseed meal 100 lbs. 

Wheat bran l^*^ l^s- 

Corn and cob meal 100 lbs. 

For cows that produce 22 pounds of milk per day. Dr. Wiley's 
ration is 8 lbs. of the grain mixture. 35 lbs. of silage and 8 ^Ibs. of 
clover hay. Commenting on this ration, Mr. Bishop. Dr. Wiley's part- 
ner and manager says : 

"This ration will not be found to supply as much dry matter as 
the Wolff-Lehman standard calls for, but where silage is fed that is 

not necessary. ' ' 

No. 6. 

Wheat bran 100 lbs. 

Linseed oil meal 100 lbs. 

Corn meal 200 lbs. 

Ground oats 200 lbs. 



124 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

No. 7. 

Wheat bran 600 lbs. 

Cotton seed meal 200 lbs. 

Feed with 35 pounds of silage and 10 pounds of leguminous hay 
— clover or alfalfa. 

No. 8. 

Corn meal 500 lbs. 

Cotton seed meal 200 lbs. 

Distillers' grains 300 lbs. 

Feed with mixed hay, or corn stover and clover with silage. 

No. 9. 

Bran 125 lbs. 

Cotton seed meal 125 lbs. 

Corn meal 100 lbs. 

Feed with timothy hay or corn stover, with silage as part of the 
roughage, feeding about 10 pounds of timothy or stover. 

No. 10. 
A Fattening Ration. 

Corn meal 100 lbs. 

Cotton seed meal 40 lbs. 

Cotton seed hulls 100 lbs. 

No. 11. 

Distillers' grains 200 lbs. 

Oil meal 100 lbs. 

Corn meal 100 lbs. 

Buckwheat middlings 100 lbs. 

No. 12. 

Cotton seed meal 200 lbs. 

Chops (corn and oats ground together) ... .400 lbs. 

Feed with timothy, stover and clover hay. 



USEFUL FACTS AND BULES FOE FARMING 125 



PROFITABLE HOG RAISING. 

What is the best hreed of hogs to raise for the general market? 

The Berkshires, Poland Chinas, Duroc Jerseys and Chester White 
breeds have all proved themselves good market hogs. For some special 
markets of course the strictly bacon breeds, the Tamworths and 
Yorkshires as well as the Harapshires have proved themselves of great 
merit. It would hardly be possible to say which is the best breed to 
raise for the general market. Any of the four breeds mentioned above 
should be satisfactory. 

How may the Eastern farmer raise and properly care for one hundred 

hogs? 

Note. — The following answer to this question was furnished by 
H. W. Mumford, Professor of Animal Industry in the College of 
Agriculture, University of Illinois. 

THE EQUIPMENT. 

In order to care properly for one hundred hogs, some special 
equipment will be necessary. The housing will depend upon the 
severity of weather and the time at which the pigs are to be farrowed. 
For early farrowing, it is necessary to have a warm hog house, well 
equipped with windows to furnish sunshine which is essential for the 
welfare of young animals. 

PASTURE LOTS AND EXERCISE. 

The providing of and construction of pasture lots must receive 
careful consideration from the standpoint of convenience to the stock- 
man and for the good of the hogs. It is essential that hogs, both 
breeding and market hogs, receive plenty of exercise at all seasons of 
the year. In winter, hogs will not take proper exercise unless com- 
pelled to do so. One of the best schemes to provide exercise is to place 
the sleeping quarters and feed troughs at opposite ends of the lot, 
requiring the hog to travel at least that distance and back for each 
feed. Forty rods is not too great a distance for this purpose. 

FEEDING. 

After the equipment necessary for hog breeding is considered, 
the successful breeder should know the food requirements for the 
proper growth and development of the pig. The principal constituent 
parts which go to make up the hog feed include water, protein, carbo- 
hydrate or fat, and ash or mineral matter. All foods require a certain 
amount of these constituents, but in varying amounts. Consequently 
a general knowledge of feeds and their relative composition and food 
value is essential. Various body functions require large amounts of 
water, as in digestion and carrying off waste matter. In summer the 
hog will probably drink sufficient water, but in winter it may be 
necessary to force the hog to drink more water by mixing it with 
feed to form a slop. 



126 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

Protein is necessary to build up tissue and so is especially neces- 
sary during the period of growth. It may be supplied by legume 
pastures; legume hay (alfalfa, clover, soy beans, etc.) ; packinghouse 
products, as tankage ; middlings and bran, which contain a larger per- 
centage than common grains, or by milk. 

Carbohydrate or fat is essential to furnish energy and produce 
fat. The main source of carbohydrate is corn, though carbohydrate 
is supplied in oats, barley, bran, middlings, grass forage, as rape, 
rye and oats, and to some extent in such feeds mentioned above as 
supplying protein. 

Mineral matter is required to build the body framework or 
skeleton. Mineral matter is found in all feeds, but in small amounts, 
so it is necessary for best development to supply it in the form of bone 
meal, which supplies phosphorus; limestone, which supplies calcium, 
and salt and potash, which also supply material for bone construction 
and other vital body functions. 

THE GROWING PIGS. 

As the hog matures, a larger percentage of carbohydrate or 
fat is required and less of the other food nutrients. However, the 
brood sow requires all of the foods needed to grow the pig for the 
proper development of her offspring. The pigs for two months will 
get most of their sustenance from their dams, following which time 
the cheapest feed can be supplied by forage crops. Alfalfa is the 
best of these, followed by clover, bluegrass, or annuals like rape, soy 
beans, cow peas and oats. The pasture should be supplemented by 
slop which may contain ground grain, bran or middlings, and milk. 
The slop should be made up with feeds to supply what the forage 
lacks. A legume forage does not require a high protein supplement 
feed; a grass pasture requires protein in the supplemental feeds, as 
middlings, milk and tankage. A good growing ration for pigs with- 
out forage is corn 60 per cent, middlings SO per cent and tankage 10 
per cent. With a legume pasture, tankage is unnecessary. 

FORAGE CROPS. 

With proper use of forage crops throughout the growing season, 
the pigs can be grown to a weight of 100 to 150 pounds very cheaply. 
During the fattening period, the feeds should be of a fattening nature. 
Corn is pre-eminently a fattening feed, and in the corn belt is used 
for that purpose almost entirely in pork production. After making 
the best use possible of forage crops, one thousand bushels of corn 
should be sufficient for finishing one hundred hogs to the weight of 
250 pounds. Other feeds, such as ground oats or barley, may be sub- 
stituted, at least in part, for the com. 

Is hogging off corn profitable? 

If a farmer has no great need for his stover, it will pay him to 
fence in a few acres and give the harvesting and husking of it over 
to the hogs. In this way not only will the hogs be easily and quickly 
fattened for market, but the labor and expense of cutting and husk- 
ing the corn will be saved — an important item, especially when the 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 127 

farmer is short of help. The hogs will not miss a single kernel, and 
the droppings are in the field where they should be. All the edible 
weeds will be added to the ration, and if dwarf Essex rape was sown 
in the field at the time of the last cultivating, so much the better. 
One acre of corn, raised from selected seed, should be sufiicient to 
fatten ten hogs. 

Why does the Eastern farmer pay so little attention to the hog 

industry ? 

Principally, because his attention has been so occupied with dairy- 
ing that he has failed to realize the profit that may be had from hogs. 
If the Eastern farmer will erect suitable buildings, which must be 
warm, dry and well ventilated, and provide suitable pasture, he may 
add very materially to his profits. It possibly might mean a greater 
profit than he gets from his dairy and with comparatively no labor. 

What causes sows to devour their young f 

A lack of protein food in her rations. Often this can be prevented 
by giving the sow a good sized piece of fat poz'k on the day she is due 
to farrow. 

What is a good ration for sows with pigs? 

Wheat middlings 100 lbs. 

Wheat bran 100 lbs. 

Tankage 20 lbs. 

Salt 2 lbs. 

What protection shoidd he provided for the young pigs in the pen? 

Fasten arond the farrowing pen a 1x6 board so that it will be 
8 inches clear of the floor. Secure by nailing brackets above it. 
Push a little fine straw back under it and the young pigs will be safe 
from being crushed by their mother. 

How shoidd the pasture he arranged? 

If possible, arrange pasture in two or more lots, so that the feed 
may be growing in one while the hogs are feeding in the other. 
Dwarf Essex rape will prove very satisfactory in the East. A small 
field of Jerusalem artichokes would be a great help in the fall. 

HOG DON'TS. 

Don't try to get along without a good hog house. 

Don't have too small a pasture. 

Don't feed much corn to the brood sow. 

Don't give the brood sow anything for twenty-four hours after 
farrowing, except warm water. 

Don't feed anything sour to the young pigs. 

Don't let your hog house get filthy. 

Don't forget to see that your hogs have a clean, dry bed. 

Don't cook feed to fatten your hogs; give them corn in the ear 
and water. 



128 THE F A R M E E S' GUIDE BOOK 



GOVERNMENT LABOR BUREAUS. 

What is the Uinted States Government doing to supply laborers 
and to secure work for those out of employment f 

The Department of Labor has divided the United States into dis- 
tricts, or "zones," and placed each in charge of one or more agents 
whose duty i.-< not only to supply all kinds of help, male or female, but 
to secure work for those who seek it. The agents are really conduct- 
ing free government labor bureaus and the operation of the system, 
as carried out, has been proving very satisfactory. Following are the 
different zones with their offices and sub-offices : 

Zone 1, Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island. Principal office, 
Long Wharf, Boston, Mass. ; sub-offices, Providence, R. I., Portland, 
Me., and New Bedford, Mass. 

Zone 2, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, New Hampshire and 
Vermont. Principal office, U. S. Barge Office, New York City ; sub- 
offices, Buffalo, N. Y., Matawan, N. J. 

Zone 3, Pennsylvania, Delaware, West Virginia. Principal of- 
fice, 135 S. Second St., Philadelphia, Pa. ; sub-office, Pittsburg, Pa. 

Zone 4, Maryland. Office, Stewart Building, Baltimore, Md. 
Zone 5, Virginia, North Carolina. Office, 119 W. Main St., Nor- 
folk, Va. 

Zone 6, Florida, Georgia, Alabama, South Carolina. Principal 
office. Federal Bldg., Jacksonville, Fla. ; sub-offices. Savannah, Ga., 
Mobile and Birmingham, Ala., and Charleston, S. C. 

Zone 7, Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas, Tennessee. Principal 
office. Immigration Station, New Orleans, La. ; sub-offices, Gulfport, 
Miss., and Memphis, Tenn. 

Zone 8, Texas and New Mexico. Principal office. Immigration 
Station, Galveston, Tex. Sub-offices, Albuquerque, N. Mex., Big 
Spring, Brownville, Laredo, Eagle Pass, San Antonio, Del Rio, El 
Paso, San Angelo and Amarillo, Tex. ; Tucumcari and Deming^ N. 
Mex. 

Zone 9, Ohio and Kentuckv. Office, Post Office Bldg., Cleveland, 
Ohio. 

Zone 10, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin. Office, 845 S. 
Wabash Ave., Chicago, 111. 

Zone 11. IMinnesota, North Dakota, South Dakota. Office, Federal 
Bldg., Minneapolis, Minn. 

Zone 12. Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Iowa. Office, Chemical 
Bldg., St. Louis, Mo. 

Zone 13, Colorado, Wyoming, Nebraska, Utah. Principal office. 
Central Savings Bank Bldg., Denver, Colo. Sub-offices, Salt Lake 
City, Utah. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOB FARMING 129 

Zone 14, Montana and Idaho. Principal office, Power BIdg., 
Helena, Mont. Sub-office, Moscow, Idaho. 

Zone 15, Washington. Principal office, Rooms 208-210 Literary 
Bldg., Seattle, Wash. Sub-offices, Spokane, Walla Walla, Tacoma, 
Aberdeen, Everett, Bellinghara, Port Angeles, Port Townsend, Custer, 
Lynden, Nooksack and Friday Harbor, Wash. 

Zone 16, Oregon. Principal office. Railway Exchange Bldg., Port- 
land, Ore. Sub-office, Astora, Ore. 

Zone 17, Northern California and Nevada. Principal office, U. S. 
Appraiser's Bldg., San Francisco, Cal. Sub-offices, Fresno, Sacra- 
mento, Ureka and Monterey, Cal. 

Zone 18, Southern California and Arizona. Principal office. Post 
Office Bldg., Los Angeles, Cal. Sub-offices, Douglas, Naco, Nogales, 
Phoenix, Yuma and Tucson, Ariz. ; Indio, Calexico, San Bernardino, 
Backersfield, San Luis Obispo and San Diego, Cal. 

How may I get assistance from a government bureau f 
If near a bureau, call on the agent and tell him what you want. 
If at a distance from a bureau, ask your postmaster for a blank, an 
employer's blank, if you wish to employ help; a laborer's blank, if 
you are looking for work. Answer the questions carefully and truth- 
fully and mail to the nearest office of the zone in which you reside, 
addressing it as follows: "Distribution Branch U. S. Immigration 
Service." For instance, if you are living at Centerville, N. Y., your 
letter would be addressed as follows : 

Distribution Branch U. S. Immigration Service, 

Buffalo, N. Y. 
Must I advance railroad fare for the man the bureau sends me? 
Sometimes it is necessary. In case it is advanced, the agent sees 
that the ticket is purchased and that the man takes the right train. 
He will also send you the man's baggage for security. 

Must I accept anyoyie ivhom the bureau chooses to send? 

Not if the qualifications have not been met. The agents study 
the farmer's requirements very carefully and seldom send men that 
do not fit. 

Where may I obtain more information concerning the Government 
Labor Bureaus? 

Address, Division of Information, Department of Labor, Wash- 
ington, D. C. 



130 THE FARMEBS' GUIDE BOOK 



GENERAL ''DON'TS" FOR FARMERS. 

Don't think you know it all. 

Don't loaf on the job when work is to be done. 

Don't deny the wife and children needed money or necessary 
pleasures. 

Don't go half clothed or hungry, you can't do one half the work. 

Don't try to save a penny, when the effort costs you a quarter. 

Don't try to get along with toggled up harness and equipment 
when it is cheaper to use better equipment. 

Don't buy stock or equipment because it is the cheapest, it may 
cost the most. 

Don't let the wife get stoop-shouldered and gray at 45, over the 
wash board, buy her a washing machine. 

Don't starve the cattle through the winter, they'll starve your 
family the year through. 

Don't humiliate your family by driving a shabby buggy or a 
blind plug horse. Give the boys a good horse and carriage and they 
will stay by the farm. 

Don't go to law. 

Don't think your neighbor is all wrong and you are all right. 

Don't carry a grouch. 

Don 't club the stock. 

Don't tell the wife, "Make that hat do another year." 

Don't stable your cows on the exposed side of a barn. 

Don't swear or curse when things go wrong, laugh and keep cool. 

Don't be unreasonable with the boys, the wife or the neighbors. 

Don't fight out your grievances, talk them over. 

Don't always take the other fellow's word, think for yourself. 

Don't stay at home the year around, get acquainted around town, 
but don't become a loafer. 

Don't sign papers for strangers. 

Don't invest in mining stock, or other get-rich-quick schemes. 
Not one mining proposition in ten thousand succeeds, even though its 
promoters may be honest and sincere. 

Don't forget to give your family a holiday now and then. 

Don't let your yards be a receptacle for old rubbish and broken 
farm machinery. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 131 

Don't keep scrub stock, if you can afford better. 

Don't forget that conveniences to lighten the work in the kitchen 
are just as essential as those at the barn. 

Don't let your buildings assume a general air of shiftlessness and 
neglect. 

Don't forget that a quick and efficient method of putting your 
farming tools out of commission is to leave them out doors. 

Don 't be stingy with oil. 

Don 't be bothered with inconveniences that may be remedied with 
a little labor and less money. 

Don't live beyond your means; but don't think you have to deny 
yourself every luxury and pleasure until the farm is paid for. Enjoy 
yourself a little as you go along. 

Don't put poor fruit in the middle of the package. It is this 
short-sighted policy that has done much to saddle upon the farmer the 
undesirable "thirty-five cent dollar." 

Don't deed your farm to your children on their promise to pro- 
vide for you during the rest of your life. The folly of this act has 
often been repented in sack cloth and ashes. 



132 



THE F ARM E B S' GUIDE BOOK 



WHERE TO GO FOR ADVICE. 

THE STATE EXPERIMENT STATIONS. 
The experiment stations, although established primarily to con- 
duct research work in agriculture, may be called upon for assistance 
m solving your farm problems. There is no charge for this service. 
Address all communications to Director of Experiment Station, at 
the place where the station is located. The following list gives, first 
the name of the State, next the town or postoffice where the station 
is located, followed by the name of the director or special agent in 
charge. 

-College Park, H. J. 



Fayetteville, 
-Berkeley, T. 



P. 



ALABAMA — College station. Au- 
burn, J. F. Duggar; Canebrake sta- 
tion, Uniontown, L. H. Moore; Tus- 
kegee station, Tuskegee Institute, 
G. W. Carver. 

ALASKA— Sitka, C. C. Georgeson. 

AEIZONA — Tucson, R. H. Forbes. 

ARKANSAS — Favetteville. M. 

Nelson. 

CALIFORNIA- 
Hunt. 

COLORADO— Fort Collins, C. 
Gillette. 

CONNECTICUT — State station. 
New Haven; Storrs station, Storrs; 
B. H. Jenkins. 

DELAWARE— Newark, H. Hay- 
ward. 

FLORIDA — Gainesville, P. 
Rolfs. 

GEORGIA— Experiment, R. J. 
De Loach. 

GUAM— Island of Guam, A. 
Hartenbower. 

HAWAII — Federal station, Hono- 
lulu, E. V. Wilcox; Sugar planters' 
station, Honolulu, H. P. Agee. 
IDAHO — Moscow, J. S. Jones. 
ILLINOIS— Urbaua, E. Davenport. 
INDIANA— La Fayette, A. Goss. 
IOWA— Ames, C. F. Curtiss. 
KANSAS— Manhattan, W. M. Jar- 
dine. 

KENTUCKY— Lexington, J. H. 
Kastle. 

LOUISIANA— State station, Baton 
Rouge; Sugar station, Audubon 
Park, New Orleans; North Louisiana 
station, Calhoun; W. R. Dodson. 
MAINE— Orono, C. D. Woods, 



H. 



H. 



C. 



MARYLAND- 
Patterson. 

MASSACHUSETTS— Amherst, W. 
P. Brooks. 

MICHIGAN— East Lansing, R. S. 
Shaw. 

MINNESOTA — University farm, 
St. I'aul; A. F. Woods. 

MISSISSIPPI — Agricultural col- 
lege, E. R. Lloyd. 

MISSOURI— College station, Col- 
umbia; F. B. Mumford. Fruit station, 
Mountain Grove, Paul Evans. 

MONTANA— Bozeman, F. B. Lin- 
field. 

NEBRASKA— Lincoln, E. A. Bur- 
nett. 

NEVADA— Reno, S. D. Doten. 

NEW HAMPSHIRE— Durham, J. 
C. Kendall. 

NEW JERSEY— New Brunswick, 
J. G. Lipman. 

NEW MEXICO— State college, Fa- 
bian Garcia. 

NEW YORK— State station, Gen- 
eva, W. H. Jordan; Cornell station, 
Ithaca, B. T. Galloway. 

NORTH CAROLINA— College sta- 
tion, West Raleigh; State station, 
Raleigh; B. W. Kilgore. 

NORTH DAKOTA — Agricultural 
college, T. P. Cooper. 

OHIO— Wooster, C. E. Thome. 

OKLAHOMA — Stillwater, L. L. 
Lewis. 

OREGON— Corvallis, A. B. Cordley 

PENNSYLVANIA— State college, 
R. L. Watts; State college. Institute 
of Animal Nutrition, H. P. Armsby. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



133 



THE STATE EXPERIMENT STATIONS— Continued. 

UTAH— Logau, E. D. Ball. 
VERMONT — Burlington, .J. L 
Hills. 

VIRGINIA — Blackburg, W. J. 
Schoene; Norfolk, truck station, T. 



PORTO RICO— Federal station, 
Mayaguez, D. W. May; Sugar plant- 
ers' station, Rio Piedras, -J. T. 
Crawley. 

RHODE ISLAND -Kingston, B. 
L. Hartwell. 

SOUTH CAROLINA— Clemson col- 
lege, J. N. Harper. 

SOUTH DAKOTA— Brookings, J. 
W. Wilson. 

TENNESSEE— Knoxville, H. A. 
Morgan. 

TEXAS — College station, B. 
Youngblood. 



C. Johnson. 

WASHINGTON— Pullman, I. D. 
Cardiff. 

WEST VIRGINIA— Morgantown, 
E. D. Sanderson. 

WISCONSIN— Madison, H. L. Rus- 
sell. 



WYOMING — Laramie, 
Knight. 



H. G. 



ADVICE FROM THE U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, 

The various bureaus under the Department of Agriculture may be depended 
upon to supply information on their special line. For instance, if you desire 
information as to the identity and life history of a peculiar kind of bug that 
you have discovered preying upon one of your crops send a specimen to L. O. 
Howard, Bureau of Entomology, Washington, D. C. Following are the addresses 
of the different bureaus: Weather Bureau, G. F. Marvin, chief; Bureau of 
Animal Industry, A. D. Melvin, chief; Bureau of Plant Industry, W. A. Taylor, 
chief; Forest Service, H. S. Graves, forester; Bureau of Soils, Milton Whitney, 
chief; Bureau of Chemistry, C. L. Alsberg, chief; Bureau of Crop Estimates, 
L. M. Estabrook, statistician; Bureau of Entomology, L. O. Howard, entomolo- 
gist; Bureau of Biological Survey, H. W. Henshaw, chief; Office of Public- 
Roads, L. W. Page, director. 

Many of the agricultural papers, notably The Rural New Yorker, Country 
Gentleman, and The Fruit Grower, will, through their staff of experts, answer 
free of charge, all questions sent to them by their subscribers. 



FARMERS' BULLETINS. 

Bulletins in this list will be sent free, so long as the supply lasts, to any 
resident of the United States, on application to his Senator, Representative, or 
Delegate in Congress, or to the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 
Because of the limited supply, applicants are urged to select only a few numbers, 
choosing those which are of special interest to them. The bulletins entitled 
"Experiment Station Work" give briefly the results of experiments performed 
by the State experiment stations. 



22. The Feeding of Farm Animals. , 101. 
30. Grape Diseases on the Pacific Coast. [ 104. 

34. Meats: Composition and Cooking. 106. 

36. Cotton Seed and Its Products. | 113. 

44. Commercial Fertilizers. i 120. 

48. The Manuring of Cotton. : 121. 
51. Standard Varieties of Chickens. 

54. Some Common Birds. , 127. 

55. The Dairy Herd. I 128. 

61. Asparagus Culture. t 134. 

62. Marketing Farm Produce. j 

64. Ducks and Geese. 138. 

77. The Liming of Soils. 139. 

78. Experiment Station Work — '■' 

79. Experiment Station Work — VI 140. 
81. Corn Culture in the South. 142. 
85. Fish as Food. 

88. Alkali Lands. 152. 

97. Experiment Station Work — X. j 154. 
99. Insect Enemies of Shade Trees. 



Millets. 

Notes on Frost. 

Breeds of Dairy Cattle. 

The Apple and How to Grow It. 

Insects Affecting Tobacco. 

Beans, Peas, and Other Legumes as 

Food. 
Important Insecticides. 
Eggs and Their Uses as Food. 
Tree Planting on Rural School 

Grounds. 
Irrigation in Field and Garden. 
Emmer: A Grain for the Semiarid 

Regions. 
Pineapple Growing. 
Principles of Nutrition .ind Nutritive 

Value of Food. 
Scabies of Cattle. 
The Home Fruit Garden: Preparation 

and Care. 



134 



TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



FARMERS' BULI1ETIN&— Coutinued. 



157. The Propagation of Plants. 

158. How to Build Small Irrigation 

Ditches. 
162. Experiment Station Work — XXI. 
164. Rape as a Forage Crop. 

166. Cheese Making on the Farm. 

167. Cassava. -.ttttt 

169. Experiment Station Work — XXII. 

170. Principles of Horse Feeding. 

172. Scale Insects and Mites on^ Citms 

Trees. ' 

173. Primer of Forestry. Part 1: The 

Forest. 

174. Broom Corn. 

175. Home Manufactured and Use of Un- 

fermented Grape Juice. 

176. Cranberry Culture. 

178. Insects Injurious in Cranberry Ctu- 

ture. 

179. Horseshoeing. 

181. Pruning. 

182. Poultry as Food. 

183. Meat on the Farm: Butchering. Cur- 

ing, and Keeping. 
185. Beautifying the Home Grounds. 
188. Weeds Used in Medicine. 
190. Experiment Station Work — XXIV. 
192. Barnyard Manure. 

195. Annual Flowering Plants. 

196. Usefulness of the American Toad 

197. Importation of Game Birds and Eggs 

for Propagation. 

198. Strawberries. 
200. Turkeys. 

203. Canned Fruits, Preserves, and Jellies. 

204. The Cultivation of Mushrooms. 

205. Pig Management. 

206. Milk Fever and Its Treatment. 
213. Raspberries. 

218. The School Garden. 

219. Lessons from the Grain Rust Epi- 

demic of 1904. 

220. Tomatoes. 

221. Fungou-s Diseases of the Cranberry. 

223. Miscellaneous Cotton Insects in 

Texas. 

224. Canadian Field Peas. 

229. The Production of Good Seed Corn. 
232. Okra: Its Culture and Uses. 
234. The Guinea Fowl. 

238. Citrus Fruit Growing in the Gulf 

States. 

239. The Corrosion of Fence Wire. 

242. An Example of Model Farming. 

243. Fungicides and Their Use in Pre- 

venting Diseases of Fruits. 
2^5. Renovation of Worn-out Soils. 
246. Saccharine Sorghums far Forage. 
249. Cereal Breakfast Foods. 
251. Experiment Station Work — XXXIV. 

253. The Germination of Seed Corn. 

254. Cucumbers. 

255. The Home Vegetable Garden. 

256. Preparation of Vegetables for the 

Table. 

257. Soil Fertility. 

263. Practical Information for Beginners 

in Irrigation. 

264. The Brown-tail Moth and How to 

Control It. 
266. Management of Soils to Conserve 
Moisture. 

270. Modern Conveniences for the Farm 

Home. 

271. Forage Crop Practices in Western 

Oregon and Western Washington. 

272. A Successful Hog and Seed-corn 

Farm. 
274. Flax Culture. 



275. The Gipsy Moth and How to Control 

It. 

276. Experiment Station Work — XXXIX. 

277. The Use of Alcohol and Gasoline in 

Farm Engines. 

278. Leguminous Crops for Green Manur- 

ing. 

279. A Method of Eradicating Johnson 

Grass. 

281. Experiment Station Work — XL. 

282. Celery. 

284. Insect and Fungous Enemies of the 
Grape East of the Rocky Mountains. 
287. Poultry Management. 

289. Beans. 

290. The Cotton Bollworm. 

291. Evaporation of Apples. 

292. Cost of Filling Silos. 

283. Use of Fruit as Food. 

294. Farm Practice in the Columbia Basin 

Uplands. 

295. Potatoes and Other Root Crops as 

Food. 
298. Food Value of Corn and Corn Prod- 
ucts. 

301. Home-grown Tea. 

302. Sea Island Cotton: Its Culture, Im- 

provement and Diseases. 

303. Corn Harvesting Machinery. 

304. Growing and Curing Hops. 

306. Dodder in Relation to Farm Seeds. 

307. Roselle: Its Culture and Uses. 

310. A Successful Alabama Diversification 

Farm. 

311. Sand-clay and Burnt-clay Roads. 

312. A Successful Southern Hay Farm. 

313. Harvesting and Storing Corn. 
318. Covrpeas. 

322. Milo as a Dry-land Grain Crop. 

323. Clover Farming on the Sandy Jack- 

pine Lands of the North. 

324. Sweet Potatoes. 

325. Small Farms in the Corn Belt. 

326. Building up a Run-down Cotton 

Plantation. 
328. Silver Fox Farming. 

330. Deer Farming in the United States. 

331. Forage Crops for Hogs in Kansas 

and Oklahoma. 

332. Nuts and Their Uses as Food. 

337. Cropping Systems for New England 

Dairy Farms. 

338. Macadam Roads. 
539. Alfalfa. 

343. The Cultivation of Tobacco in Ken- 
tucky and Tennessee. 

345. Some Common Disinfectants. 

346. The Computation of Rations for 

Farm Animals by the Use of 
Energy Values. 

347. The Repair of Farm Equipment. 

349. The Dairy Industry in the South. 

350. The Dehorning of Cattle. 

351. The Tuberculin Test of Cattle for 

Tuberculosis. 

354. Onion Culture. 

355. A Successful Poultry and Dairy 

Farm. 

358. A Primer of Forestry. Part II: 

Practical Forestry. 

359. Canning Vegetables in the Home. 
361. Meadow Fescue: Its Culture and 

Uses. 

363. Tlie Use of Milk as Food. 

364. A Profitable Cotton Farm. 

365. Farm Management in Northern Pota- 

to-growing Sections. 
367. Lightning and Lightning Conductors. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



135 



FARMERS' BULLETINS— Continued. 



368. The Eradication of Bindweed, or 

Wild Morning-glory. 

369. How to Destroy Kats. 

370. Replanning a Farm for Profit. 

371. Drainage of Irrigated Lands. 

372. Soy Beans. 

373. Irrigation of Alfalfa. 

375. Care of Food in the Home. 

377. Harmfulness of Headache Mi.xtures. 

379. Hog Cholera. 

380. The Loco-weed Disease. 

382. The Adulteration of Forage-plant 

Seeds. 
386. Potato '"ullure on Irrigated Farm.s of 

the West. 

388. Experiment Station Work^LVI. 

389. Bread and Bread Making. 

390. Pheasant liaising in tlie United 

States. 

391. Economical Use of Meat in the 

Home. 

392. Irrigation of Sugar Beets. 

393. Habit-forming Agents. 

394. The Use of Windmills in Irrigation 

in the Semiarid West. 

395. Sixty-day and Kherson Oats. 

396. The Mnskrat. 

398. Farm Practice in the Use of Com- 

mercial Fertilizers in the South 
Atlantic States. 

399. Irrigation of Urain. 

400. A More Profitable Corn-planting 

Method. 

401. The Protection of Orchards in the 

Pacific Northwest from Spring 
Frosts by Means of Fires and 
Smudges. 

402. Canada Bluegrass : Its Culture and 

Uses. 

403. The Construction of Concrete Fence 

Posts. 

404. Irrigation of Orchards. 

406. Soil Conservation. 

407. The Potato as a Truck Crop. 
411. Feeding Hogs in the South. 

413. The Cnre of Milk and Its Use in the 

Home. 

414. Corn Cultivation. 

415. Seed Corn. 

416. The Production of Cigar-leaf Tobac- 

co in Pennsylvania. 

417. Rice Culture. 

420. Oats: Distribution and Uses. 

421. Control of Blowing Soils. 

422. Demonstration Work on Southern 

Farms. 

424. Oats: Growing the Crop. 

425. Experiment Station Work — LX. 

426. Canning Peaches on the Farm. 

427. Barlev Culture in the Southern 

States. 

428. Testing Farm Seeds in the Home and 

in the Rural School. 

429. Industrial Alcohol: Sources and 

Manufacture. 

431. The Peanut. 

432. How a City Family Managed a Farm. 

433. Cabbage. 

434. The Home Production of Onion Seed 

and Sets. 

435. Experiment Station Work — LXII. 

436. Winter Oats for the South. 

437. A System of Tenant Farming and Its 

Results. 

438. Hog Houses. 

439. Anthrax, with Special Reference to 

Its Suppression. 

440. Spraying Peaches for the Control of 

Brown Rot Scab and Curculio. 

441. Lespedeza, or Japan Clover. 



442. The Treatment of Bee Diseases. 

443. Barley: Growing the Crop. 

444. Remedies and Preventives Against 

Mosquitoes. 

445. Marketing Eggs Through the Cream- 

ery. 

446. The Choice of Crops for Alkali Land. 

447. Bees. 

448. Better Grain-sorghum Crops. 

449. Rabies or Hydrophobia. 

450. Some Facts about Malaria. 

452. Capons and Caponizing. 

453. Danger of General Spread of the 

Gypsy '■'iid Brown-tail Moths 
Through Imported Nursery Stock. 

454. A Successful New York Farm. 

455. Red Clover. 

456. Our Grosbeaks and Their Value to 

Agriculture. 

458. The Best Two Sweet Sorghums for 

Forage. 

459. House Flies. 

460. Frames as a Factor in Truck Grow- 

ing. 

461. The Use of Concrete on the Farm. 
4t)2. Tile Utilization of Logged-off Land 

i'or Pasture in Western Oregon and 
Western Washington. 

463. The Sanitary Privy. 

464. The Eradication of Quack-grass. 
4S6. Winter Emmer. 

467. The Control of the Chestnut-bark 
Disease. 

471. Grape Propagation, Pruning, and 

Training. 

472. Systems of FarmLng in Central New 

Jersey. 

473. Tuberculosis. 

474. Use of Paint on the Farm. 

475. Ice Houses. 

476. The Dying of Pine in the Southern 

States: Cause, Extent and Remedy. 

477. Sorghum-sirup Manufacture. 

478. How to Prevent Typhoid Fever . 

480. Practical Methods of Disinfecting 

Stables. 

481. Concrete Construction on the Live- 

stock Farm. 

482. The Pear and How to Grow It. 

483. The Thornless Prickly Pears. 

485. Sweet Clover. 

486. Experiment Station Work — LXVIII. 

487. Cheese and Its Economical Uses in 

the Diet. 

488. Diseases of Cabbage and Related 

Crops and Their Control. 

489. Two Dangerous Imported Plant Dis- 

eases. 

490. Bacteria in Milk. 

491. The Profitable Management of the 

Small Apple Orchard on the Gen- 
eral Farm. 

492. The More Important Insect and 

Fungous Enemies of the Fruit and 
Foliage of the Apple. 

493. The English Sparrow as a Pest. 

494. Lawns and Lawn Soils. 

495. Alfalfa Seed Production. 

496. Raising Belgian Hares and Other 

Rabbits. 

497. Some Common Game, Aquatic, and 

Rapacious Birds in Relation to 
Man. 

498. Methods of Exterminating the Texas- 

fever Tick. 

499. Experiment Station Work — LXIX. 

500. The Control of the Boll Weevil. 

501. Cotton Improvement Under Weevil 

Conditions. 



136 



THE F A B M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 



FAEMEBS' BULLETINS— Continued. 



502. Timothy Production on Irrigated 

Land in the Northwestern States. 

503. Comb Honey. 

504. Experiment Station Work — LXX. 

505. Benefits of Improved Roads. 

506. Food of Some Well-known Birds of 

Forest, Farm, and Garden. 

507. The Smuts of Wheat, Oats, Barley, 

and Corn. 

508. Market Hay. 

509. Forage Crops for the Cotton Region. 

511. Farm Bookkeeping. 

512. The Boll Weevil Problem. 

514. Experiment Station Work — LXXI. 

515. Vetches. 

516. The Production of Maple Sirup and 

Sugar. 

517. Experiment Station Work — LXXII. 

518. Winter Barley. 

519. An Example of Intensive Farming in 

the Cotton Belt. 

521. Canning Tomatoes at Home and in 

Club Work. 

522. Experiment Station Work — LXXIII. 

523. Tobacco Curing. 

524. Tile Drainage on the Farm. 

525. Raising Guinea Pigs. 

526. Mutton and Its Value in the Diet. 

528. Hints to Poultry Raisers. 

529. Vetch Growing in the South Atlantic 

States. 

530. Important Poultrj; Diseases.^ 

531. Larkspur, or "Poison-Weed." 

533. Gflod Seed Potatoes and How to Pro- 

duce Them. 

534. Durum Wheat. 

535. Sugar and Its Value as Food. 

536. Stock Poisoning Due to Scarcity of 

Pood. 

537. How to Grow an Acre of Corn. 

538. Sites, Soils, and Varieties for Citrus 

Groves in the Gulf States. 

539. Propagation of Citrus Trees in the 

Gulf States. 

540. The Stable Fly. 

541. Farm Buttermaking. 

542. Culture, Fertilization, and Frost Pro- 

tection of Citrus Groves in the 
Gulf States. 

543. Common White Grubs. 

544. Potato-tuber Diseases. 

545. Controlling Canada Thistles. 

546. How to Manage a Corn Crop in Ken- 

tucky and West Virginia. 

547. The Yellow Fever Mosquito. 

548. Storing and Marketing Sweet Pota- 

toes. 

550. Crimson Clover: Growing the Crop. 

551. The Cultivation of American Gin- 

seng. 

552. Kafir as a Grain Crop. 

553. Pop Corn for the Home. 

554. Pop Corn for the Market. 

555. Cotton Anthracnose and How to Con- 

trol It. 
557. The Potato Tuber Moth. 
559. Use of Corn, Kafir, and Cowpeas in 

the Home. 

561. Bean Growing in Eastern Washing- 

ton and Oregon and Northern 
Idaho. 

562. The Organization of Boys' and Girls' 

Poultry Clubs. 

564. The Gipsy Moth and the Brown-tail 
Moth, with Suggestions for Their 

Control. 

565. Corn Meal as a Food and Ways of 

Using It. 

566. Boys' Pig Clubs. 

537. Sugar beet Growing Under Irrigation. 



568. Sugar-beet Growing Under Humid 

Conditions. 

569. Texas or Tick Fever. 

571. Tobacco Culture. 

572. A System of Farm Cost Accounting. 
673. The Angora Goat. 

574. Poultry House Construction. 

576. Breeds of Sheep for the Farm. 

577. Growing Egyptian Cotton in the Salt 

River Valley, Arizona. 

578. The Handling and Feeding of Silage. 

579. Crimson Corn. 

580. Beef Production in the South. 

582. Uses for Chestnut Timber Killed by 

the Bark Disease. 

583. The Common Mole. 

685. Natural and Artificial Incubation of 
Hens' Eggs. 

586. Collection and Preservation of Plant 

Material for use in the Study of 
Agriculture. 

587. Economic Value of North American 

Skunks. 

588. Economical Cattle Feeding in the 

Corn Belt. 

589. Homemade Silos. 

591. The Classification and Grading of 

Cotton. 

592. Stock Watering Places on Western 

Grazing Lands. 

593. How to Use Farm Credit. 

594. Shipping Eggs by Parcel Post. 

595. Arsenate of Lead as an Insecticide 

Against the Tobacco Hornworms. 

596. The Culture of Winter Wheat in the 

Eastern Half of the United States. 

597. The Road Drag and How it is Used. 

599. Pasture and Grain Crops for Hogs in 

Pacific Northwest. 

600. An Outfit for Boring Taprooted 

Stumps for Blasting. 

601. A New Method of Cotton Culture and 

Its iVpplication. 

602. Clean Milk: Production and Hand 

ling. 

603. Arsenical Cattle Dips: Methods of 

Preparation and Directions for 
Use. 

605. Sudan Grass. 

606. Collection and Preservation of In- 

sects and Other Material for Use 
in the Study of Agriculture. 

607. The Farm Kitchen as a Workshop. 

608. Removing Garlic Flavor from Milk 

and Cream. 

609. Bird Houses and How to Build Them. 

610. Wild Onion: Methods of Eradica- 

tion. 

612. Breeds of Beef Cattle. 

613. Goldenseal under Cultivation. 

614. An Efficient Farm System for the 

Corn Belt. 

616. Winter-Wheat Varieties for the East- 

ern United States. 

617. School Lessons on Corn. 

618. Leaf-Spot, a Disease of the Sugar 

Beet. 

619. Breeds of Draft Horses. 

620. The Agricultural Outlook. 

621. How to Attract Birds in Northeast- 

ern United States. 

622. Basket Willow Culture. 

623. Ice Houses and the Use of Ice on 

the Dairy Farm. 

624. Natural and Artificial Brooding of 

Chickens. 

625. Cotton Wilt and Root Knot. 

626. The Carpet Beetle, or "Buffalo 

Moth." 

627. The House Centipede. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



137 



FARMERS' BULLETINS— Continued. 



628. Game Laws for 1914. 

629. The Agricultural Outlook. 

630. Some Common Birds Useful to the 

Farmer. 

631. Growing Peaches: Sites, Propaga- 

tion, Planting, Tillage, and Main- 
tenance of Soil Fertility. 

632. Growing Peaches: Pruning, Renewal 

of Tops, Thinning, Interplanted 
Crops, and Special Practices. 

633. Growing Peaches: Varieties and 

Classification. 

638. Laboratory Exercises in Farm Me- 
chanics for Agricultural Schools 

643. Blackberry Culture. 

652. The Sheep-Killing Dog. 

654. How Farmers May Improvi; Their 
Personal Credit. 



655. Cottonseed JNIeal for Feeding Beef 
Cattle. 
The Community Egg Circle. 
The True Clothes Moths. 
.V Method of Analysing the Farm 

Business. 
Strawberry Growing in the South. 
Foot and Mouth Disease. 
Fiber Flax. 

671. Harvest Mites, or "Chiggers." 

672. The Agricultural Outlook. 
Irrigation Practice in Rice Growing. 
The Roundheaded Apple-Tree Borer. 
Hard Clover Seed and Its Treatment 

in Hulling. 

Growing Hard Spring Wheat. 

The Silverfish ; an Injurious House- 
hold Insect. 



356. 
659. 

661. 

664. 
666. 
669. 



673. 
675. 
676. 

678. 
681. 



roENTIFIOATION OF FRUIT. 

If there is, in your orchard, a tree bearing a strange variety of apples the 
name of which you are anxious to learn, write to C. P. Close, Bureau of Plant 
Industry, Washington. D. C, and ask him to mail you a few boxes for sending 
fruit for identification. He will send you boxes in which the fruit may be sent 
free of charge. There will be no charges for identificaticui. It will make 
the identification easier if you send with the fruit a brief description of the 
tree. 



LIVE STOCK REGISTRY ASSOCIATIONS. 

Write to the secretaries, whose names are given, for addresses 

of reliable dealers nearest you. 

HORSES. 

AMERICAN THOROUGHBRED STUD BOOK, J. E. Wheeler, 173 Fifth Ave., 
New York. 

AMERICAN HACKNEY STUD BOOK, Wm. S. Webb, 51 E. 44th St., New York 

NATIONAL REGISTRY OF MORGAN HORSES, Jos. Battell, Middlebury, Vt. 

AMERICAN CLYDESDALE STUD BOOK, Charles F. Mills, Springfield, 111. 

DOMINION CLYDESDALE STUD BOOK, Henry Wade, Toronto, Can. 

PERCHERON STUD BOOK OP AMERICA, S. D. Thompson, Wayne, III. 

AMERICAN FRENCH COACH HORSE SOCIETY, S. D. Thompson, Wayne, III 

AMERICAN SHIRE HORSE ASSOCIATION. Charles Burgess, Winona, 111. 

AMERICAN TROTTING REGISTER ASSOCIATION, .1. H. Steiner. 3.55 Dear 
born St., Chicago, 111. 

AMERICAN JACK STUD BOOK, J. H. Felton, Grassland, Tenn. 

AMERICAN BELGIAN DRAFT HORSE ASSOCIATION, J. D. Conner, Jr., 
Wabash, Ind. 

AMERICAN SADDLE HORSE BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, L B. Nail, Louis- 
ville, Ky. 

AMERICAN SUFFOLK PUNCH ASSOCIATION, Alex. Galbraith, Janesville, 
Wis. 

NATIONAL REGISTRY OP NORMAN HORSES, Theo. Butterworth, Quincy, 
111. 

(Addresses of other associations will be given on request.) 



138 TEE FARMERS' GUIDEBOOK 

LIVE STOCK REGISTKY ASSOCIATIONS— Continued. 

CATTLE. 

AI^JEEICAN ABERDEEN-ANGUS HEED BOOK, Thos. McFarlane, Harvey, 111. 

AYRESHIRE RECORD, C. M. "Winslow, Brandon, Vt. 

CANADIAN AYRESHIRE HERDBOOK, Henry Wade, Toronto, Can. 

AMERICAN GALLOWAY BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, Frank B. Hearn, Inde- 
pendence, Mo. 

AMERICAN HEREFORD CATTLE BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, C. R. Thomas, 
Independence, Mo. 

DOMINION HEREFORD HERD BOOK, Henry Wade, Toronto, Can. 

AMERICAN JERSEY CATTLE CLUB, R. M. Gow, 324 W. 23rd St., New York. 

THE HOLSTEIN-FRIESIAN ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA, F. L. Houghton, 
Brattleboro, Vt. 

HOLSTEIN-FRIESIAN HERD BOOK OF CANADA, J. W. Clemons, St. George, 
Can. 

DUTCH BELTED HERD BOOK, H. B. Richards, Easton, Pa. 

SWISS RECORD, "N. S. Fish, Groton, Conn. 

AMERICAN DEVON RECORD, L. P. Sisson, Wheeling, W. Va. 

RED POLLED HERD BOOK, J. McLain Smith, Dayton, O. 

AMERICAN GUERNSEY CATTLE CLUB REGISTER, Wm. H. Caldwell, 
Peterboro, N. H. 

KERRY CATTLE, Henry S. Ambler, Chatham, N. Y. 

(Addresses of other associations will be given on request.) 

SHEEP. 

AMERICAN SHROPSHIRE SHEEP RECORD, Mortimer Levering, Lafayette, 
Ind. 

NATIONAL MERINO SHEEP REGISTRY ASSOCIATION, C. C. Johnson, 
Cannonsburg, Pa. 

REGISTER NEW YORK STATE AMERICAN MERINO SHEEP BREEDERS' 
ASSOCIATION, J. Horation Earll, Skaneateles, -N. Y. 

REGISTER VERMONT MERINO SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, Lewis 
A. Skiff, Middlebury, Vt. 

OHIO MERINO SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, Wesley Bishop, Troy- 
ton, O. 

AMERICAN LEICESTER RECORD, A. J. Temple, Cameron, 111. 

NATIONAL DELAINE MERINO SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, John 
C. McNary, Cannonsburg, Pa. 

NATIONAL LINCOLN SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, H. A. Daniels, 

Elva, Mich. 
FLOCK RECORD HAMPSHIRE-DOWN SHEEP, J. I. Gordon, Mercer, Pa. 

NATIONAL CHEVIOT SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, H. Keim, La- 
doga, Ind. 
AMERICAN COTSWOOL RECORD, Geo. Harding & Son, Waukesha, Ind. 
AMERICAN RAMDOUILLET ASSOCIATION, E. V, Burnham, Woodstock, O. 
AMERICAN SOUTHDOWN RECORD, Jno. J. Springer, Springfield, III. 
(Addresses of other associations will be given on request.) 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



139 



TABLE I. 



WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 

Troy Weight. 

24 grains J. pwt. 

20 pwt 1 ounce 

12 ounces 1 pound 

Used for weighing gold, silver, and 
jewels. 

Apothecaries' Weight. 
20 grains 1 scruple 

3 scruples 1 dram 

8 drams 1 ounce 

12 ounces 1 pound 

The ounce and jiouud in this are 
the same as in Troy Weight. 

Avoirdupois Weight. 

' 27ii grains 1 dram 

■' ' 16 drams 1 ounce 

16 ounces 1 pound 

25 pounds 1 quarter 

4 quarters .... 1 cwt. 

2,000 pounds 1 short ton 

2,240 pounds 1 long ton 

Dry Measure. 

2 pints 1 quart 

8 quarts 1 peck 

4 pecks 1 bushel 

36 bushels 1 chaldron 

Licntid Measure. 

4 gills 1 pint 

2 pints 1 quart 

4 quarts U gallon 

31% gallons 1 barrel 

2 barrels 1 hogshead 

Square Measure. 

144 square inches .1 sq. foot 

9 square feet ... 1 sq. yard 

30^/4 square yards .1 sq. rod 

40 square rods ... 1 rood 

4 roods 1 acre 

640 acres 1 sq. mile 



USED IN THE UNITED STATES. 
Long Measure. 

12 inches 1 foot 

3 feet 1 yard 

5% yards 1 rod 

40 rods 1 furlong 

8 furlongs 1 statute nak 

3 miles 1 league 

Paper Measure. 

24 sheets 1 quire 

20 quires 1 ream (480 

sheets) 

2 reams 1 bundle 

5 bundles 1 bale 

Surveyors' Measure. 

7.92 inches 1 link 

25 links 1 rod 

4 rods 1 chain 

10 sq. chains or 

1()0 sq. rods 1 acre 

640 acres 1 sq. mile 

36 sq. miles (6 

miles square) ... 1 township 



Cubic Measure. 



1,728 

27 

128 

40 



cubic in. 

cubic ft. 

cubic ft. 

cubic ft. 

2,150.42 cubic in. 

231 cubic in. 

1 cubic ft. 



. . 1 cubic foot 

. . 1 cubic yard 

. . 1 cord (wood) 

. .1 ton (shipping) 

. . 1 standard bu. 

. . 1 standard gal. 
. . about % bu. 



Mariner's Measure. 

6 feet 1 fathom 

120 fathoms 1 cable length 

7% cable lengths 1 mile 

5,280 feet 1 statute mile 

6,085 feet 1 nautical mile 

Miscellaneous. 

3 inches 1 palm 

4 inches 1 hand 

6 inches 1 span 

18 inches 1 cubit 

21.8 inches 1 Bible cubit 

2.5 feet 1 military pace 



140 



THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



TABLE II. 

AVERAGE PERIOD OF INCUBATION. 



Canary birds 14 days 

Ducks 28 days 

Geese 30 days 

Guinea 28 days 

Hens 21 days 



Pea fowls 29 days 

Pheasants 25 days 

Pigeons 18 days 

Turkeys 28 



AVERAGE PERIOD OF GESTATION 



Ass 12 months 

Bitch f> weeks 

Camel 12 months 

Cat 8 weeks 

Cow 9 months 

Dog and fox 2 months 

Elephant 2 years 



Goat 5 months 

Guinea pig 65 days 

Mare 11 months 

Pig 314 months 

Rabbit 30 days 

Rat and squirrel 28 days 

Sheep 5 months 



AVERAGE LIFE OF ANIMALS. 



Camel 100 years 

Cat 15 years 

Cow 20 years 

Deer 20 years 

Dog 10 years 



Fox 15 years 

Horse 20 years 

Rabbit 7 years 

Sheep 10 years 

Swine 20 years 



TABLE III 

NUMBER OF YEARS SEEDS RETAIN THEIR VITALIT"? 



Barley 3 

Beans 5 

Beet 6 

Buckwheat 2 

Cabbage 5 

Carrot •! 

Celery 8 

Clover 3 

Corn 2 

Cucumbers 6 

Eggplant 6 

Flax 2 

Hop 2 

Lettuce 5 

Millet 2 

Muskmelon 5 

Mustard 3 



Oats 3 

Onions . , 2 

Orchard grass 2 

Parsnip 1 

Peanut 1 

Peas 3 

Pumpkin 5 

Radish 5 

Rape 5 

Rye 2 

Salsify 2 

Soy-beans 2 

Squash 6 

Timothy 2 

Turnip 5 

Watermelon 6 

Wheat 2 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



141 



TABLE III— Continued. 

AMOUNT OF SEED PER ACRE. 



Alfalfa (boardcast) 20-30 lbs. 

Alfalfa (drilled) 15-20 lbs. 

Barley 8-10 pks. 

Beans (small) 2-3 pks. 

Blue-grass (sown alone) . 25 Ibt--. 

Brome grass (sown alone) 12-20 lbs. 

Buckwheat 3-5 pks. 

Cabbage %■ 1 lb. 

Carrot (for stock) 4- (5 lbs. 

Clover (alsike alone) .... 8-15 lbs. 

Clover (red alone) 10-18 lbs. 

Corn (for ears) 6-8 qts. 

Corn (for silage) 9-11 qts. 

Cowpea 1-1 V^ bu. 

Crimson clover (alone) . . 12-15 lbs. 

Flax 2-4 pks. 

Mangels 5-8 lbs. 

Millet 1-3 pks. 



Oats 

Potatoes (cut) 

Potatoes (whole) . . 

Pumpkin 

Rape 

Red-top 

Eutabaga 

Rye 

Sugar beets 

Sweet clover 

Timothy 

Timothy and Clover- 
Timothy 

Clover 

Turnip (broadcast) . 

Vetch (hairy) 1 bu. - 
small grain. 

Wheat 



2- 3 bus. 
8 bus. 

12 bus. 

4 lbs. 

, 2- 8 lbs. 

, 12-15 lbs. 

3- 5 lbs. 
3- 8 pks. 

. 15-20 lbs. 

2- 4 pks. 

. 10-20 lbs. 

. 10-15 lbs. 
. 4-10 lbs. 
. 2- 4 lbs. 
bu. 

. 6- 9 pks. 



TABLE IV. 

NUMBER OF PLANTS PER ACRE AT VARIOUS DISTANCES. 



Distance 




Distance 




Distance 




Distance 




Inches. 


Plants. 


Inches. 


Plants. 


Feet. 


Plants. 


Feet. 


Plants, 


Ix 1 


6,272,640 


10x48 


13,068 


4x 


5 


2,178 


9x10 


484 


Ix 3 


2,090,880 


15x15 


27,878 


4x 


6 


1,815 


9x11 


440 


Ix 4 


1,568,160 


15x30 


13,939 


4x 


7 


1,556 


9x12 


403 


Ix 5 


1,254,528 


15x36 


11,616 


5x 


5 


1,742 


10x10 


435 


2x 2 


1,568,160 


18x36 


9,680 


5x 


6 


1,452 


10x12 


363 


2x 3 


1,045,440 


18x48 


7,260 


5x 


7 


1,244 


10x15 


290 


2x 4 


784,080 






5x 


8 


1,089 


10x18 


242 


2x 5 


627,264 


Feet. 




5x 


9 


968 


10x20 


217 


3x 3 


696,960 


Ix 1 


43,560 


6x 


6 


1,210 


12x12 


302 


3x 4 


522,720 


Ix 2 


21,780 


6x 


7 


1,037 


12x15 


242 


3x 5 


418,176 


Ix 3 


14,520 


6x 


8 


907 


12x20 


181 


4x 4 


392,040 


Ix 4 


10,890 


6x 


9 


806 


15x15 


193 


4x 5 


313,632 


Ix 5 


8,712 


6x10 


726 


15x18 


161 


5x 5 


250,905 


2x 2 


10,890 


7x 


7 


888 


15x20 


145 


6x 6 


174,240 


2x 3 


7,260 


7x 


8 


777 


18x18 


134 


7x 7 


128,013 


2x 4 


5,445 


7x 


9 


691 


18x20 


121 


8x 8 


98,010 


2x 5 


4,356 


7x: 


10 


622 


18x24 


100 


9x 9 


77,440 


3x 3 


4,840 


8x 


8 


680 


20x20 


108 


10x10 


62,726 


3x 4 


3,630 


8x 


9 


605 


20x24 


90 


10x20 


31,363 


3x 5 


2,904 


8x10 


544 


20x30 


72 


10x24 


26,136 


3x 6 


2,420 


8x11 


495 


30xf3 


60 


10x30 


20,908 


3x 7 


2,074 


8x 


12 


453 


30x30 


48 


10x36 


16,424 


4x 4 


2,722 


9x 


9 


537 


30x36 


40 



142 



TEE F ARM E B S' GUIDE BOOK 



TABLE V. 

AVERAGE PERCENTAGE COMPOSITION OF FERTILIZER INGREDIENTS 

Containing: 
Ingredients. Nitrogen or Phosphoric Potash 

Fumisliing Nitrogen PrincipaUy: Ammonia Acid 

Sulphate of Ammonia, 98 per cent 20. 24. 

Nitrate of Soda, 97 per cent 16. 

Dried Blood 13 . 

Fish Scrap 8.2 

Tankage 7.4 

Azotin 12 . 3 

Cotton Seed Meal 7 . 

Furnishing Potash Principally: 

Kainit 

Sylvinit 

Sulphate of Potash, High Grade (96 per 

cent. ) 

Sulphate of Potash, Magnesia 

(Double Manure Salt) 

Muriate of Potash 

Wood Ashes (Hardwood, TJnleached) 

Cotton Seed Hull Ashes 

Tobacco Stems 

Furnishing Phosphoric Acid Principally: 

Acid Phospate 

Dissolved Bone 

Bone Meal 

Bone Black 

Bone Ash 

Dissolved Bone Black 



19. 






16. 


5. 




10. 


8.t 




9. 

15. 


11. t 

7. 




8.50 


2.5* 


1. 

12. 

17. 

52. 

27. 

50. 




2. 


5. 




9. 


23. 


1.80 


.75 

10-14* 


5. 


2. 


14.* 




4. 


23. t 
28. 
35. 
16.* 





* Available Phosphoric Acid. 

t Contains 4 per cent. Available Phosphoric Acid. 
t Contains about 10 per cent. Available Phosphoric Acid. 
** Contains about 33 per cent, of Lime. 



TABLE VI. 



THE AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZER 
and Nitrogen) PER ACRE 



Crop Yield i 

Apples 15 tons 

Barley 30 bu. 

Beans 30 " 

Buckwheat 34 " 

Cabbage 30 tone 

Clover, green* 

Clover, dry 

Corn 70 bu. 

Grapes 2 tons 

Hops 600 lbs. 

Mixed Hay 

Oats 60 bu. 

Onions 45,000 lbs. 

Pears 16 tons 

Peas 30 bu. 

Plums 8 tons 



INGREDIENTS (Potash, Phosphoric Acid 
USED BY DIFFERENT CROPS, 







Phosphoric 




traw, Etc. 


Potash 


Acid 


Nitrogen 




60 lbs. 


30 lbs. 39 


lbs. 


2,000 lbs. 


51 " 


17 ' 


57 




2,700 " 


53 " 


30 " 


75 




2,800 " 


40 " 


14 ' 


56 






270 " 


70 ' 


200 




15 tons 


140 " 


40 ' 


130 




2 " 


88 " 


18 ' 


82 




6,000 lbs. 


55 " 


48 ' 


83 




7,000 '' 


39 " 


11 ' 


32 




2,700 " 


53 " 


23 ' 


84 




5,000 " 


77 " 


18 ' 


70 




3,200 " 


62 " 


22 ' 


55 






72 " 


37 ' 


' 72 






26 " 


10 ' 


32 




3,000 lbs. 


52 " 


33 ' 


108 







40 " 


4 ' 


30 







Phosphoric 


Potash 


Acid 


Nitrogen 


74 " 


21 ' 


46 " 


45 " 


26 ' 


51 " 


143 " 


32 ' 


69 " 


94 " 


23 ' 


89 " 


200 " 


16 ' 


76 " 


54 " 


20 ' 


32 " 


180 " 


52 ' 


80 " 


31 " 


24 ' 


59 " 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 143 

TABLE VI— Continued. 

Crop Yield Straw, Etc. 

Potatoes 200 bu. 1,500 lbs. 

Rye 30 " 4.250 " 

Sugar Beets 15 tons 6,000 ' ' 

Timothy Hay -i.'iOO " 

Tobacco 1,600 lbs. 1,400 " 

Tomatoes 10 tons 

Turnips 700 bu. 5 tons 

Wheat 35 " 3,000 lbs. 

** Contains about 83 per cent, of Lime. 



TABLE VII. 

AMOUNT OF FERTLLIZING VALUE IN 1,000 POUNDS OF THE VARIOUS 
FARM PRODUCTS AND FOOD STUFFS. 

Phosphoric 

Name of Feed Nitroijon Acid Potash 

(N) (P.O,) (K,0) 

Alfalfa, green 7.7 1.3 5.6 

Alfalfa, hay 26.1 6.1 17.9 

Alsike (in bloom), green 6.2 1.1 2.0 

Beets, sugar 2.9 0.8 3.7 

Brewers' grains (dried) 40.0 16.1 2.0 

Canada pea meal 32.3 8.2 9.9 

Cotton seed meal 72.5 30.4 15.8 

Corn ensilage 4.3 1.1 3.7 

Corn fodder, green 2.9 1.1 3.9 

Cornmeal (all) 14.7 6.3 4.7 

Corn stalks with ears 7.2 5.4 8.9 

Corn stalks without ears 6.1 3.8 10.9 

Corn and cob meal 13.6 5.7 4.7 

Cow peas, green 3.8 1.3 4.6 

Crimson clover, hay 24.3 4.0 13.1 

Dried beet pulp 12.9 2.2 3.1 

Gluten meal 54.8 3.3 0.5 

Kentucky blue grass, hay 12.5 4.0 15.7 

Linseed meal (old process) 54.2 16.6 13.7 

Malt sprouts 42.1 17.4 19.9 

Mangels 2.2 0.9 3.8 

Oats 18.2 7.8 4.8 

Oat forage, in bloom, green 2.6 1.3 3.8 

Oat straw 5.8 3.0 17.7 

Peas and oats, green 3.8 1.5 5.0 

Red clover, green 7.0 1.5 4.8 

Red clover, hay 19.7 5.5 18.7 

Red top, hay 12.6 3.6 10.2 

Ruta-bagas 1.9 1.2 4.9 

Rye 18.1 8.6 5.8 

Timothy, green 5.0 2.6 7.6 

Timothy, hay 9.4 3.3 14.2 

Wheat 19.0 5.5 8.7 

Wheat bran (winter) 25.1 26.9 15.2 

Wheat middlings 27.0 26.3 15.3 



144 



THE F A R M E E 8' G VIDE BOO K 



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USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 



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146 



THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



TABLE IX. 

DIGESTIBLE NUTRIENTS IN 100 POUNDS OF VARIOUS FEEDING 

STUFFS\ 



Kind of Feed Total Dry 

Matter 

Alfalfa, green 28 . 2 

Alfalfa hay 91.6 

Apples 19.0 

Apple pomace 23.3 

Barley, grain 89.1 

Bean straw 95.0 

Beet, mangel 9.1 

Beet, sugar 13 . 5 

Blood, dried 91.5 

Brewers' grains, dry 91.8 

Brewers ' grains, wet 24.3 

Buckwheat bran 89.5 

Buckwheat, grain 87.4 

Buckwheat middlings 87.3 

Cabbage 15.3 

Carrot 11-4 

Clover (red), green 29.2 

Clover (red), hay 84.7 

Corn-aud-cob meal 84 . 9 

Corn fodder, green 20 . 7 

Corn fodder, dry 57.8 

Corn, grain 89 . 1 

Corn silage 20.9 

Corn stover 59.5 

Cottonseed meal 91.8 

Cowpeas 85.2 

Gluten meal 91.8 

Hominy chops 88.9 

Hungarian hay 92 . 3 

Linseed meal (new process) . .) 89.9 

Linseed meal (old process ... 90.8 

Malt sprouts 89.8 

Milk, cows ' 12.8 

Skim-milk, centrifugal 9.4 

Skim-milk, gravity 9.6 

Buttermilk. 9.9 

Whey 6.6 

Hay of mixed grasses 87. 1 

Oat straw 90.8 

Oats, grain 89 . 

Peas, grain 89 . 5 

Peas-and-barley, green 16.0 

Peas-and-oats, green 16.0 

Pea- vine straw 86 .4 

Pea-vine silage 27.0 

Potatoes 21.1 

Pumpkin, field 19 . 1 

Eye, grain 88 . 4 

Rye bran 88.4 

Rye straw 92.9 

Soy-bean 89.2 

Sugar-beet leaves 12.0 

Sugar-beet molasses 79.2 



Pounds of Digestible Ni 


utrients 






Carbo- 






Protein 


hydrates 


Total 


Nutritive 


+ 


(fat X 2.25) 




. Ratio 


3.9 


13.8 


17.7 


1: 3.5 


11.0 


42.3 


53.3 


1: 3.8 


.7 


18.8 


19.5 


1:26.8 


1.1 


16.4 


17.5 


1:14.9 


8.7 


69.1 


77.8 


1: 7.9 


3.6 


39.7 


43.3 


1:11.0 


1.1 


5.6 


6.7 


1: 5.1 


1.1 


10.4 


11.5 


1: 9.4 


52.3 


5.6 


57.9 


1: 0.1 


15.7 


47.8 


63.5 


1: 3.0 


3.9 


12.5 


16.4 


1: 3.2 


7.4 


34.7 


42.1 


1: 4.7 


7.7 


53.3 


61. U 


1: 6.9 


22.0 


45.6 


67 . 6 


1: 2. J 


1.8 


9.1 


10.9 


1: 5.1 


.8 


8.3 


9.1 


1:10.4 


2.9 


16.4 


19.3 


1: 5.7 


6.8 


39.6 


46.4 


1: 5.8 


4.4 


66.5 


70.9 


1:15.1 


1.0 


12.5 


13.5 


1:12.5 


2.5 


37 . 3 


39 . 8 


1:14.9 


7.9 


76.4 


84.3 


1: 9.7 


.9 


12.9 


13.8 


1:14.3 


1.7 


34 . 


35 . 7 


1:20.0 


37.2 


44.4 


81.6 


1: 1.2 


18.3 


56.7 


75.0 


1: 3.1 


25.8 


68.1 


93.9 


1: 2.6 


7.5 


70 . .1 


78.0 


1: 9 4 


4.5 


54.6 


59.1 


1:12.1 


28.2 


46.4 


74. (i 


1: 1.6 


29.3 


48 . 5 


77. S 


1: 1.7 


18.6 


40.9 


59.5 


1: 2.2 


3.6 


13.2 


16.8 


1: 3.7 


2.9 


5.9 


8.8 


1: 2.0 


3.1 


6.5 


9.6 


1: 2.1 


3.9 


6.5 


10.4 


1: 1.7 


0.8 


5.4 


6.2 


1: 6.8 


5.9 


43.6 


49.5 


1: 7.4 


1.2 


40.4 


41.6 


1:33.7 


9.2 


56.8 


66.0 


1: 6.2 


16.8 


53.4 


70 . 2 


1: 3.2 


1.7 


7.7 


9.4 


1: 4.5 


1.8 


7.6 


9.4 


1: 4.2 


4.3 


34.1 


38.4 


1: 7.n 


2.5 


14.1 


16.6 


1: 5.6 


.9 


16.5 


17.4 


1:18.3 


1.4 


6.5 


7.9 


1: 4.6 


9.9 


70.1 


80.0 


1: 7.1 


11.5 


54.8 


66.3 


1: 4.8 


.6 


41.5 


42.1 


1:69.2 


29.6 


54.7 


84.3 


1: 1.8 


1.7 


5.1 


6.8 


1: 3.0 


9.1 


59.5 


68.6 


1: 6.5 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 147 

TABLE IX— Continued. 

Pounds of Digestible Nutrients 
Carbo- 

Kind of Feed Total Dry Protein hydrates Total Nutritive 

Matter -f- (fat X 2.25) Ratio 

Sugar-beet pulp 10.2 .6 7. .3 7.9 1:12.2 

Timothy hay 86.8 2.8 46.6 49.4 1:16.6 

Turnip,flat 9.5 1.0 7.7 8.7 1:7.7 

Wheat,grain 89.5 10.2 73.0 83.2 1:7.2 

Wheatbran 88.1 12.2 45.3 ,57.5 1:3.7 

Wheat middlings 87.9 12.8 60.7 73.5 1:4.7 

Wheat straw 90.4 .4 37.2 37.6 1:93.0 

^Adapted from H'enr\'s Feed.s and Feeding. 



TABLE X. 

USEFUL RULES. 

TO FIND THE NUMBER OF BUSHELS IN A BIN. 

Multiply the product of the length, breadth and thickness, in feet, by 
45/56. 

TO MEASURE LUMBER. 

Multiply together the number of pieces, the width and thickness in inches, 
the length in feet and divide the product by 12. 

TO FIND THE NUMBER OF TONS OF HAY IN A BAY. 

From the top down 400 cubic feet will make a ton. Multiply length, breadth 
and thickness in feet together and divide by 400. After the hay has settled 
several months, the part of the mow ten feet below the surface will average a 
ton to 270 cubic feet. If clover hay, increase bulk by one-tenth. 

TO FIND THE NUMBER OF TONS IN A STACK. 
Multiply the length in feet by the width in feet, this product by one-half 
the height, and divide by 300. If a round stack,- multiply the area of the 
base by one-half the height and diviile by 300. 

TO FIND THE NUMBER OF BUSHELS OF CORN IN A CRIB. 
Allow 2^4 cubic feet for a bushel of corn on the cob. It requires two 
bushels of ear corn to make one bushel of shelled corn. 

HOW TO FIND THE AREA OP A CIRCLE. 
Square the diameter (multiply it by itself) and multiply by .7854. 

TO FIND THE CAPACITY OF A WATERING TROUGH. 
Multiply the length, width and depth in feet together and divide the prod- 
uct by 4. The result will be the contents in barrels of 31Vj gallons each. 

TO FIND THE CONTENTS OF A ROUND TANK. 
Multiply the s,quare of the diameter in feet by the depth in feet and the 
result by 6. The result is the approximate contents of the tank in gallons. 



148 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



FUNGICIDES AND INSECTICIDES. 

Many of these preparations may be purchased of local dealers ; but 
if large quantities are to be used, it will be cheaper to make your own. 

Lime-Sulphur. 
For the San Jose Scale and to Prevent Disease. 

Flowers of sulphur 15 pounds 

Quick lime 15 pounds 

Water 50 gallons 

Slake the lime and mix it with sulphur, adding water enough to 
make a soft paste. Add 10 gallons of water and boil for about an hour, 
or until the mixture is well dissolved. Then add water to make 50 
gallons and use while warm. This will prevent peach leaf curl. 

Commercial lime-sulphur should be diluted with nine to ten times 
its bulk of water. 

Self-Boiled Lime- Sulphur. 
P^or Cherries, Pears and Peaches. 

Fresh burned lime 8 pounds 

Flowers of sulphur 8 pounds 

Water 50 gallons 

Place lime in a barrel and add a little water. As soon as it begins 
to slake add the sulphur. Keep stirring constantly and adding water 
until the mixture reaches the consistency of a thin paste. The lime 
will generate enough heat to boil several minutes. When the lime is 
well slaked, add water to cool the mixture and prevent further cook- 
ing. When cool strain through a 20-mesh sieve, forcing the sulphur 
through, but keeping out the chunks of lime. Dilute to 50 gallons. This 
is used as a summer spray. It is said to prevent brown rot in peaches. 

Bordeaux Mixture. 
For All Fungus Diseases. 

Copper sulphate (blue vitriol) 5 pounds 

Unslaked lime 5 pounds 

Water • . . . 50 gallons 

Place the copper sulphate in a gunny sack, or tie in cheese cloth, 
and hang in twenty gallons of water in such a way that the bottom of 
the sack will rest on top of the water. This will permit the air to 
come in contact with the vitriol and help to dissolve it. Pour about 
three gallons of hot water on the lime and stir until it is thoroughly 
slaked. Strain this through a cheese cloth into the water containing 
the dissolved sulphate and add water to make fifty gallons. This is 
what is known as the 5-5-50 solution and is used on apple trees in the 
spring before the buds start. The two solutions should not be mixed 
until used, and one must always be very dilute when they are mixed. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RlJLEt< FOR FARMING 149 

Often what is known as "stock solutions" are made by dissolving 
the lime and sulphate separately at the rate of one pound to each 
gallon of water. When needed one gallon each of the solution is taken 
for each ten gallons of water to be used. 

Care should be taken that enough lime is used. A test may be 
made by dissolving a little potassium ferrocyanide in water and 
pouring a few drops into the Bordeaux mixture. If enough lime is 
present, the color will remain yellow, if more is needed the color will 
change to a brick red. 

Dry Paris Green. 
To Kill Potato Bugs. 

Paris green 1 pound 

Hydrated lime 20 pounds 

This may be used for dusting potatoes when it is not convenient 
to spray. 

Kerosene Emulsion. 

Hard soap 1/2 pound 

Rain water 1 gallon 

Kerosene (coal oil) 2 gallons 

Shave the soap, dissolve in hot water and add to the oil while hot, 
away from the fire. Churn with a pump for 5 minutes, or until the 
mixture increases from one-third to one-half its bulk and assumes the 
consistency of cream. 

For plant lice and other soft-bodied insects dilute with 15 parts 
of water. For the red spider and other plant mites dilute the same 
and add 1 ounce of flowers of sulphur to the gallon. Apply with a 
spray pump and do not dilute until used. 

Tobacco Solution. 
For Plant Lice. 

One pound of tobacco stems to about a gallon of water soaked 
over night, or one part of "Black leaf" extract to 40 parts of water. 

Poisoned Bait. 
For Cut Worms or Army Worms. 

Paris green 1/, pound 

Bran 25 pounds 

Water 2 gallons 

Cheap Molasses IVo quarts 

If necessary, add water to make the mixture moist throughout, 
but not sloppy. Scatter in little fingerfuls on ground infested by 
worms. Do not put it where the hens can get it. 



150 THE F ARM E U 8' GUIDE BOOK 

Hellehore. 
For Currant and Gooseberry Worms. 

Fresh white hellebore 6 ounces 

Water 3 gallons 

Apply with a spray pump. If for dry application. 1 part of the 
hellebore may be used to 5 of hydrated lime. 



For Cahhage Worms. 

Sift rye flour on the plants in the morning while the dew is on. 
Good commercial preparations to use are, "Slug Shot" and "Bug 
Death, ' ' sold at most drug stores and seed houses. 



Tarred Seed Corn. 

To Prevent Crows and Blackbirds from Pulling Up. 
Put the corn into a pail and pour on enough warm water to cover 
it. Add a tablespoonful of tar to the peck, and stir thoroughly. Place 
the corn on a sieve or in a basket to drain and then stir in a few 
handfuls of slaked lime, road dust or land-plaster. Do not pour tar 
on the dry seed. As a further preventive against wireworms, enough 
Paris green may be stirred in to give the corn a faint green color. 



Formaldehyde. 
For Oat Smut, Stinking Smut of Wheat and Scabby Potatoes. 

Formaldehyde 1 pint 

Water 50 gallons 

Smut is caused by a fungus which is carried over from one crop 
to another by means of germs or spores which cling to the outside of 
the seed kernels. When the seeds grow the fungus grows inside the 
tissues of the plant. Later, when the plant blooms, the fungus takes 
possession and produces black, dusty spores where the grain kernels 
should be. Treat as follows : 

Spread the seed out on a floor or canvas and sprinkle with the 
solution until moist, but not wet enough to pack in the hand. Shovel 
over repeatedly to distribute the moisture evenly, then shovel into a 
pile and cover with sacks or canvas for at least two hours. The seed 
may then be sown at once or may stand until the next day. If kept 
longer the grain should be dried as rapidly as possible by spreading 
it out into a thin layer and stirirng occasionally with a rake. Avoid 
reinfection with smut from smutty sacks, bins, wagon boxes, or seeders. 
Give them the formaldehyde treatment also. The sohition may be 
mixed in a barrel and applied with a sprinkling can. Each gallon of 
this solution is enough for a little more than one bushel of grain. 

When treating potatoes, use 30 gallons of water, instead of 50, and 
soak seed for two hours. This should be done before the sprouts start. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 151 



USEFUL FORMULAS. 

A Good Spray for the JIfn House. 

rVnde carbolic acid 1 part 

Kerosene oil 3 parts 

Clean np all droppings and litter and spray thoronghly, in the 
cracks and under the roosts. It will clean out all lice, unites and fleas. 

For Killing Lice on Cattle and Young Stocl- — No. 1. 

Linseed oil 1 gallon 

Lard compound 5 pounds 

Flowers of sulphur 5 pounds 

Kerosene oil 2 quarts 

Grease the stock all over with this ointment and. every louse will 
be killed. Repeat in ten days to destroy the new crop. 

For Killing Lice 071 Cattle and Young Stock — No. 2. 

Soft soap 4 quarts 

Kerosene oil 1 pint 

Water 6 quarts 

Churn well together and wash the aniinals thoroughly. Repeat 

as with No. 1. 

An Excellent Lice Powder for Poultry. 

Crude carbolic acid Vo pint 

Gasoline II/2 pints 

Plaster of Paris 5 pounds 

Mix thoroughly and rub through a fine sieve. Let stand for one 
day before using. Do not use this powder on young chicks. 

Government WhitevJash. 

1. Whitewash for Outside Use — (1) Slake 1 bushel of quick- 
lime in 12 gallons of hot water; (2) dissolve two pounds of common 
salt and 1 pound of sulphate of zinc in 2 gallons of boiling water; 
pour (2) into (1). then add 2 gallons of skim milk and mix thor- 
oughly. Whitewash is spread liglitly ovei» 'rtie surface with a broad 
brush. 

2. Whitewash for Interior Painting — Slake a peck of quick- 
lime with boiling water and cover the instant the water is added. 
Strain after slaking, and put in a gallon of salt dissolved in hot water, 
a quarter of a pound of Spanish whiting, two pounds of rice-paste, and 
a half-pound of glue, dissolved in M^arm water. Mix these thoroughly, 
cover, and set aside for a few days to ripen. 



152 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

If this is made thin enough, it may be sprayed on fences, nests, 
troughs, hen-coops, poultry-houses and walls. If a spray-pump is used 
two or three coats should be put on. No mice, vermin or lice can live 
where this wash is used. 

Grafting Wax for Warm Weather — No. 1. 

Resin 4 ounces 

Beeswax 2 ounces 

Tallow 1 ounce 

Use the above proportion to make the amount needed. Melt to- 
gether stir and pour into a pail of cold water. Grease the hands and 
pull the wax until it is nearly white. Work into sticks and put in a 
cool place. 

Grafting Wax for Cool Weather — No. 2. 

Resin 5 pounds 

Beeswax 1 pound 

Linseed oil 1 pint 

Prepare same as No. 1. 

Egg Preservative. 

Water glass solution 1 gallon 

Water 9 gallons 

First boil and cool the water then add the water glass. Use stone 
jars. Place the eggs in the solution from day to day, as they are laid, 
taking care that they are absolutely clean. If placed in a cool, dark 
place, eggs will remain fresh in this solution for one year. Infertile 
eggs will keep longer than fertile eggs. 

The Washington I^xperiment Station gives the following figures 
as to size of container and number of eggs : 

Size of Size of 

Container Will Hold Container Will HoUl 

1 gallon .... 40 eggs 4 gallon .... 160 eggs 

2 gallon .... 80 eggs 5 gallon .... 200 eggs 

3 gallon . . . . ] 20 eggs 10 gallon .... 400 eggs 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 153 



HOW TO REMOVE STAINS. 

Black Silk — Brush and wipe it thoroughly; lay on table with the 
side intended to show, up; sponge with hot coffee strained through 
muslin; when partly dry, iron. 

To Remove Stains or Grease From Oil Faint — Use bisulphide of 
carbon, spirits of turpentine, or if dry and old, use chloroform. These 
and tar spots can be softened with olive oil and lard. 

Iron Rust — Warm 10 per cent solution of oxalic or citric acid. 
Do not use on silk ; sour milk may also be used. 

Riist From Steel — Mix a half-ounce of emery powder with one ounce 
of soap and rub well. 

Fruit Stains From Cotton — Apply cold soap, then touch the spot 
with a feather or fine brush dipped in chlorate of soda, then dip im- 
mediately in cold water. Alcohol is often very efficient. 

Grease From Silk— Moisten the spot and rub with magnesia, let it 
dry, then brush the powder off. 

Scorch Stains From White Linen — Lay in bright sun. 

Mildew — Rub a little soap over the milder spots, and over this 
a little chalk and lemon juice, place the garment in the sun for two 
hours and wash in the usual way. 

Fruit Stains on the Hands — Moisten the hands and hold them 
over burning sulphur; if vegetable stains, rub with a slice of raw 
potato. 

Indelible Inks — A 10 per cent solution of potassium cyanide, very 
poisonous. 

Iodine — Wood alcohol, 10 per cent solution of potassium iodide. 

Tar, Wago7i Grease — Soap and oil, turpentine. 

Paint, Varnish — Turpentine, benzine, carbon tetrachloride. Do 
not use turpentine on silk. 

Oil 3Iarks on Wall Paper — Apply paste of cold water and pipe 
clay, leave it on all night, brush off in the morning. 

Paint Spots From Clothing — Saturate with equal parts turpen- 
tine and spirits of ammonia. 

To Cleanse House Paper — Rub with flannel dipped in oatmeal. 

Black Cloth — Mix one part of spirits of amm(mia with three parts 
warm water; rub with sponge or dark cloth; clean with water; rub 
with the nap. 

Furniture — For Finger Marks, Rub with a soft rag and sweet oil. 

Chromos — Go over lightly with a damp linen cloth. 

Zinc — Rub with a piece of cotton cloth dipped in kerosene, nfter- 
wards v/ith a dry cloth. 

Window Glass — Paint can be removed by a strong solution of soda. 

To Clean Tinware — Common soda, applied with a moistened news- 
paper and polished with a dry piece, will make it look like new. 

To Cleanse the Coffee Pot — Boil in it water in which soda has 
l>een dissolved. 

Chloroform will often restore the color in colored goods. 



154 THE F A R M E B S' GUIDE BOOK 



TESTED RECIPES 

SALT-RISING BREAD. 

Put 2 tablespoons of corn meal into a glass with a fitted cover 
(use a small-sized dried-beef glass) and add a bit of soda about 
one-half as large as a small pea. Pour over this enough scalded 
milk, which has become partially cooled, to make a thin batter. It 
should fill the cup about one-half full. Stir while the milk is being 
poured in, and place in a covered dish containing warm water 
and set where it will keep at an even temperature just a little below 
scalding heat. It should become light in six hours, and is then 
known as "railroad emptyings." It may now be set away until ready 
for use. It will keep for several days, if kept cool. 

For 4 loaves of bread, put 1 cup of flour into a bread pan and 
pour over it, stirring constantly to avoid lumps, 1 cup of scalded 
milk, hot, and enough boiling water to thoroughly wet the entire 
mass. Stir until perfectly smooth, then add about 2 cups of cold 
water and enough flour to make a soft batter. Stir into this, which 
should now be about hike warm, three teaspoons of the emptyings, 
place the bread pan in a larger pan of warm water and set where 
it Avill keep warm, but not hot. Avoid drafts. When about double 
in bulk add 2 teaspoons of salt and sufficient flour to make into 
soft loaves with a small amount of kneading (mixing). Set in a 
warm place and let rise again until about double in bulk, then 
bake in a moderate oven. 



ROLLS. 

Pour 1 pint of boiled milk over a scant half-cup of shortening 
(half butter and half lard). Add a half-cup of sugar, and when 
cold, 1 compressed yeast cake dissolved in a little water. Thicken 
as for bread sponge. Let rise and knead into soft loaf, adding one- 
half teaspoon salt at this time. Let rise again. AVhen light knead 
very little, and roll out one inch thick. Butter and sprinkle very 
lightly with flour; cut with cookie cutter and pinch edges together; 
let get very light. Bake in moderate oven for about 15 minutes. 
Start at nine or ten in the morning for use at night. Let rise on 
side table, unless severe cold weather, Avhen place near stove. 



GRAHAM BREAD. 

One-half cup New Orleans molasses, i/o cup granlated sugar, 2 
cups graham flour, 2 cups white flour, 2 cups sour milk, or butter 
milk, 1 scant teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. Stir well and bake one 
hour in a moderate oven. This makes two small loaves. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 155 

MUFFINS. 

One egg, 1 cup sweet milk, 2 tablespoons sugar, % cup melted 
butter, 2 cups fiour before sifting, 3 teaspoons baking powder and 
1/4 teaspoon salt. Beat until light and bake in quick oven, about 20 
minutes. 

BAKING POWDER BISCUITS. 

One and one-half cups flour, 1% teaspoons baking powder, 1 
tablespoon of lard, % teaspoon salt. Add sufficient flour to make a 
soft dough and roll to about one inch thick. Cut in desired shape 
and bake in quick oven. This may also be used for shortcakes and 
for dumplings. 

WHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. 

Two and one-half cups sifted flour, I/2 teaspoon salt, 2 cups sour 
milk, V/4 teaspoon soda, 1 egg. ]\Iix and sift flour, salt and soda; 
add sour milk, and egg well beaten. Drop by spoonfuls on 
greased, hot griddled. Cook on one side. When puffed full of bub- 
bles and cooked on edges, turn and cook other side. 

BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. NO. 1. 

Two cups buttermilk, 1 cup water. 2 teaspoons soda, salt. Add 
flour to make batter of right consistency. Mix at night, and add 
soda in the morning. 

BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. NO. 2. 

One heaping cup buckwheat flour, ^4, cup white flour, % cup sour 
milk, I/O cup water, salt. Mix and add yeast cake dissolved in water. 
Start at night, adding even teaspoon of soda and the salt in the morn- 
ing. Before adding soda in the morning take out % cup of batter to 
start the next batch. No more yeast need be added. 

CORN BREAD. 

Two cups sour milk, % or 14 cup sugar. 2 cups corn meal, 1 
cup white flour, large teaspoon soda dissolved in milk. salt. Steam 
three hours. 

FRIED CAKES. 

One cup thick sour milk, not too old, 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, 2 
level tablespoons butter, 1 level tablespoon lard (both melted), 1 
level teaspoon soda. 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder, a dash of 
nutmeg and cinnamon, more of the latter, salt. Cream butter, lard 
and sugar together and, when cool, add eggs and beat well. Add 
flour and lastly the milk. Put soda in the milk and sift baking 
powder with the flour. Knead on board until smooth, being careful 
not to get too thick. Roll to about an inch thick: cut in rings and 
fry in hot fat. 



156 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

PLAIN CAKE. 

One cup sugar, 1 egg, rounding tablespoon soft butter, 1 cup 
sweet milk, 2 cups sifted Hour, 2 heaping teaspoons baking powder. 
If short of milk, half water may be used. Cream butter and sugar 
together, add egg and beat well ; add flour, in which the baking 
powder has been mixed, salt and inilk. Beat thoroughly and bake 
in medium-sized bread tin. 



LAYER CAKE. 

One cup sugar and 2 eggs beaten to a cream; 4 tabelspoons 
melted butter, beat thoroughly. Add 1 cup sweet milk, 2 heaping 
teaspoons baking powder, sifted through 2 cups flour, pinch of salt, 
1 teaspoon vanilla ; makes two large layers, or three smaller ones. 



PIE CRUST. 

One cup flour, 2 large tablespoons lard, 3 tablespoons water, 
salt. Work the lard into the flour thoroughly, add the water and 
work gently with the hands shaping it into a form for rolling. When 
a stiff dough is formed, turn on a floured board, pat with a rolling 
pin and roll into a thin piece. 



CUSTARD PIE. 

Two eggs, beaten, % cup sugar, 1 rounding tablespoon flour, a 
little salt and nutmeg. Smooth the flour and nutmeg in a little 
milk; put all ingredients into a pint bowl and fill with milk. This 
makes filling for one pie. Bake in raw crust. 



LEMON PIE. 

One cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon corn starch, 
1 cup boiling water, 2 eggs, 1 lemon. Cream butter and sugar, 
moisten starch with cold water and then add the boiling water; 
pour this over the butter and sugar and let cool, then add the 
beaten eggs and lemon juice with a little of the grated rind. 



PUMPKIN PIE. 

Steam or stew the pumpkin, cut into small pieces, until soft 
enough to mash with a potato masher. Return it to the fire to let 
the water dry off, taking care that it does not burn or scorch. For 
one pie take 1 well beaten egg, lA cup of brown sugar, 1 cup pump- 
kin, 1 cup rich milk (a little cream improves it) and a pinch of salt. 
Stir well together, season with Vo teaspoon ginger and bake with 
undercrust in a moderately hot oven. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 157 



RHUBARB PIE. 

One large cup chopped pie plant, 1 large cup sugar, 1 egg, the 
grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoon flour. Stir all together 
and bake between two crusts. 

CAKE FILLING. NO. 1. 

Two-thirds cup sugar, IY2 tablespoons corn starch ; pour over 
this 1 small cup boiling water and cook 5 minutes; add rind and 
juice of one lemon, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon butter and cook one 
minute. 

CAKE FILLING. NO. 2. 

One-half cup sugar, 1/2 cup sweet milk, 2 teaspoons flour, yolks 
of 2 eggs, heaping teaspoon butter, teaspoon vanilla, 1/2 cup chopped 
nut meats. Cook in double boiler until it thickens. 

GINGER COOKIES. 

One cup sugar, 1 cup Duff's molasses, 1 cup lard, 1 cup sour 
milk, 2 teaspoons soda. 1 Teaspoon ginger. 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 
even teaspoon salt, 1 egg. Put all ingrdients in dish together and 
stir; mix soft and bake m quick oven. 

SUGAR CO OKIES. 

One and one-half cups sugar, 1 cup sour cream, butter the size 
of an egg, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon soda. Mix soft and bake quickly. 

GINGER BREAD. 

One-half cup sugar, I/2 cup lard, 1 cup molasses, 2i/l> cups flour, 
2 eggs, 1 cup boiling water, 1 teaspoon each of soda, ginger, cinna- 
mon and cloves. Beat the eggs, add sugar, lard and molasses; 
cream them, then add flour, soda and spices and last of all the 
boiling water. Bake in a long pan in a moderate oven. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

To 7 eggs take half a pound of flour and % of a pound of sugar 
and the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Pour over the sugar a 
half-cupful of boiling water and let it boil. Beat whites and yolks 
of egg well together, and when sugar is boiled to a clear syrup, 
pour it over them, beating the whole until it is thick and light. 
Stir in the flour lightly and add the lemon last of all. Bake in a 
slow oven. 

BEEF STEAK STEW. 

Cut 1 pound of medium thick round steak into pieces about 2 
inches square ; place in bottom of a 3-quart basin, drop bits of butter 
over the pieces, then add alternate layers of onions and sliced po- 



158 THE F AB M E B S' GUIDE BOOK 

tatoes, scattering a little flour and salt over each layer. Put a gen- 
erous supply of butter on top. The dish may be filled to within 1 
inch of the top. Pour on boiling water; cover tightly and bake 
sloAvly for about 5 hours. Fresh, or canned tomatoes, may be added, 
if desired. 

BEEF AND VEGETABLE STEW. 

Cut potatoes, carrots, turnips and any other vegetable desired 
into small dice and boil until tender in broth in which beef has been 
boiled ; add bits of cooked meat, season with salt and pepper, heat 
and serve. If the meat was salted when cooked, only a small 
amount of salt need be added. 

MINCE MEAT. 

One quart ground beef, which has been thoroughly cooked, 2 
quarts sour apples (Greenings preferred), 2 teacups beef suet, 
ground very fine, 1 pound raisins, 1 teacup English currants, 1 
pint black molasses, 1 pound brown sugar, 1 pound granulated 
sugar, 1 quart sour cider, 1 pint boiled cider, or apple jelly, 1 tea- 
spoon salt, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 1 grated nut- 
meg. The raisins should be seeded and ground, the English cur- 
rants thoroughly washed and ground. Mix together, cook thor- 
oughly and can hot, as fruit. 

MOCK MINCE MEAT. 

One peck green tomatoes. 1 peck sour apples, 5 pounds sugar, half 
brown, half granulated, 1 pound raisins, 1 pound English currants, 
2 tablespoons cinnamon, 1 tablespoon cloves, 1 tablespoon nutmeg, 2 
cups vinegar or boiled cider, 2 cups Dove molasses, 2 tablespoons 
salt, 2 cups suet,. Grind tomatoes fine and boil in three waters, the 
last two warm when put on, boiling 15 minutes each time. Put in- 
gredients together, with exception of spices, and boil 1 hour, or 
until apples seem done ; add spices 5 minutes before removing from 
fire. If boiled cider is not available, pear pickle juice may be sub- 
stituted. Can same as mince meat. This is an excellent substitute 
and preferred by some to real mince meat. 

SUET PUDDING. 

One cup molasses, 1 cup suet chopped fine, 1 cup sweet milk, V2 
cup chopped raisins, V2 cup English currants, 1 teaspoon different 
spices to suit taste, 1 teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt, 31/2 cups sifted 
flour. Stir ingredients together and steam 3 hours in two buttered 

COffcB C 3-118. 

SAUCE FOR SUET PUDDING. 

One cup sugar, 1/2 cup butter, 1 egg, 1 lemon (all the juice and 
1/2 the grated peel), 1 teaspoon nutmeg, 3 tablespoons boiling water. 
Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 159 

APPLE SAUCE CAKE. 

One and one-half cups apple sauce, 2 teaspoons soda, 1 cup 
brown sugar, 1 cup raisins, 2 cups sifted flour, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 
1/2 teaspoon cloves, a little nutmeg, V2 cup butter, salt. Cook apples, 
put through a colander and sweeten as for sauce; stir soda into the 
apple sauce, cream butter and sugar together, stir all thoroughly, 
beat and bake. 

MILK SOUP. 

One quart sweet milk, 2 medium sized onions, sliced. Cook in 
double boiler for three-quarters of an hour; add 1 cup mashed pota- 
toes, a small piece of butter, salt and pepper to taste ; serve hot with 
butter crackers. 

GRAPE JUICE. 

Ten quartes grapes after stemming, 1 quart water. Let boil 
until the grapes are soft then mash and strain through cloth as for 
jelly. Do not squeeze, but let drain. Measure juice, adding scant 
cup of sugar to a quart of juice; let boil until sugar is all dissolved, 
strain and bottle while hot and seal carefully. This makes about 
6 quarts. Concords make best grape juice. 

FRUIT SALAD DRESSING. 

Four tablespoons cream, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 3 tablespoons 
sugar, 1/4 teaspoon mustard, V4 teaspoon salt. 2 eggs. Beat eggs to- 
gether until light, then add sugar, salt and mustard which has been 
mixed, next the vinegar and lastly the cream. Cook over hot water 
until thick, stirring constantly. Use on any fruit sa,lad. 

CHILI SAUCE. 

Chop together 1 dozen good sized ripe tomatoes, 2 or o green 
peppers and 2 onions. Boil for 1 hour, then add 1 cupful vinegar, 
1 tablespoon salt, 4 tablespoons light brown sugar, cinnamon and 
cloves to taste ; boil all together for 20 minutes ; seal in bottles. 

MOLASSES COOKIES 

One cup lard. 1 cup sugar, 1 cup molasses, 1 cup boiling water, 
1 tablespoon each of cinnamon and ginger, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 tea- 
spoon baking soda, a little salt, flour to make stiff enough to roll 
out. Bake in a quick oven, not too hot. 

PICKLED CUCUMBERS. 

Wash and wipe three hundred small cucumbers and one quart 
of peppers ; put in a stone jar with Y2 cup of salt. Heat to boiling 
point 11/2 gallons of cider vinegar, and II/2 pints of water. Add i/4 
pound each, of whole cloves, whole allspice and stick cinnamon 
and 1 ounce of white mustard-seed, and pour over pickles. 



160 THE F ARM E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 

WALNUT TAFFY. 

Place over the fire in a kettle 3 pounds of sugar and one pint 
of water. When the sugar is dissolved and the syrup comes to a 
boil add I/2 teaspoon cream of tartar and cook to the crack degree. 
Spread in a buttered pan a pound and a half of shelled nuts, hickory 
or walnuts. Pour the boiling candly over them and when cool break 
into pieces. 

SOAP MAKING. 
NO. 1. 

Take three cans of concentrated lye, 14 pounds of cracklings 
and rinds, 3 pails (10-quart size) of soft water. Use a large iron 
kettle, put in 1 pail of the water and the 3 cans of lye, let it come 
to a boil so as to dissolve the lye. Then put in the cracklings. Let 
this boil slowly for four or five hours and add, along, the two other 
pails of water. Before you quit boiling it put in two handfuls of 
powdered borax. Take away the fire from around the kettle and 
let it stand over night. In the morning you can cut out soap four 
or five inches thick and there will be no lye left in the bottom of the 
kettle. Cut out in cakes and lay on a board to dry ; can be used in 
a short time. 

NO. 2. 

One quart soft water, 1 10-cent can Babbitt's lye, i/i pound 
powdered borax. Place in kettle and heat until all is dissolved, 
then cool. Strain 2 quarts of grease (a part of which must be beef 
tallow) through a cheese cloth, pour slowly into the cold solution, 
mix thoroughly and stir over a fire until it becomes thick. Pour 
into mould before too thick and block off before thoroughly cool. 
This soap is too strong to use until two months old. 

NO. 3. 

Farmer's Soft Soap. 

When cold weather sets in many farmers begin to save "soap 
grease" and their hard-wood ashes, preparatory to making soap in 
the spring. The "soap grease" consists of all kinds of scraps, such 
as meat rinds, bones with marrow in them, in fact all kinds of odds 
and ends that are partly grease. If there is no beef grease in the 
lot, some must be supplied. 

In the spring, before the warm weather begins to affect the 
' ' soap grease, ' ' the soap is made about as follows : 

Erect a board platform and trough for catching the lye. On 
the platform set a barrel with both ends knocked out, place in the 
bottom some straw and on top of this about 2 quarts of slaked 
lime. Fill the barrel with hard-wood ashes that have not been ex- 
posed to the weather, and pour on water one pail at a time, for 
several days. When the lye is strong enough to bear up an egg it is 
ready to use. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 161 

Place all the "soap grease" in a caldron kettle, pour on lye to 
cover it and boil. The lye will take up all the grease and leave the 
bones clean in the bottom. Boil slowly and keep trying, adding more 
lye or water as seems necessary, until the soap becomes thick, then let 
cool and place in a barrel for future use. 

If perchance, as it sometimes happens, you find in the morning 
that the soap has ' ' turned back, ' ' the addition of water will thicken 
it. Only soft water should be used in soap making. 

HOW TO CURE HAMS AND BACON. 

Clear, cold weather is the best for butchering time, as the meat 
should be cold and firm before cutting up. Trim hams and shoulders 
and use trimmings for sausage. 

If the smoked meat is to last through the summer, it should be 
kept in the pickle at least six weeks ; if it is to be used immediately, 
four weeks will be sufficient. There is nothing better than clean, 
dry corn cobs for smokng, although hickory chips will answer very 
well. All brine for pork should be strong enough to float an egg. 
Use enough water to cover the meat, add the ingredients of the 
formula used, boil, skim, let cool and pour over the meat. See that 
all the meat is covered. 

NO. 1. 

For 100 pounds of meat — 1 ounce of saltpeter, 1 pint of 
molasses, 1 teaspoon soda, 8 pounds of salt. 

NO. 2. 

For 100 pounds of meat — 4 tablespoons saleratus, 8 pounds of 
salt, 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 ounce saltpeter. 

CURING HAMS AND BACON WITHOUT BRINE. 

NO. 1. 

For 100 pounds of meat — 1 pound pepper, % pound red pepper, 
1/2 pound powdered saltpeter, 3 pounds brown sugar, 1 bushel salt. 
Mix, rub each piece of meat thoroughly and pack closely in a large 
tub. Leave same as with brine, then wash, dry and smoke. 

NO. 2. 

For 100 pounds of meat — 2 quarts salt, 3 ounces powdered salt- 
peter, 4 ounces sugar, 1/2 pint molasses. Mix well and rub meat 
three times with the mixture, two weeks between rubbings, wash 
dry and smoke. 

NO. 3. 

For 100 pounds meat — 4 pounds salt, i/i pound powdered salt- 
peter, 8 tablespoons brown sugar. Mix, divide into three parts, and 
rub one portion into the meat every three days. Place with rind 
down. 



162 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

PACKING PORK. 

Use stone jar or whiskey barrel. Nothing but perfectly clean 
and freshly scalded receptacles will do. Do not use, for pork, a 
barrel that has been used for beef. Put salt into the bottom of the 
barrel or jar, pack the pork in tightly, sprinkling salt over it as it 
is packed. Make brine as for hams, except that only salt is used. 
After two weeks if the brine looks muddy or ropy, take out, boil, 
skim, wash the pork and return to jar. Do not put new brine on 
old pork. 

SAUSAGE. 

Sausage is made from the pork trimmings. Various season- 
ings are used, but sage is the staple. For the city market use less 
fat than for the country. Pour the seasoning over the pieces be- 
fore grinding. After grinding mix thoroughly, pack into clean 
jars and pour melted lard over the top. If preferred, the sausage 
may be packed in unbleached muslin bags, dipped in grease, and 
hung in a dry place. 

NO. 1. 

For 1 pound of meat — 11/2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 
ly? teaspoons sage. 

NO. 2. 

For 40 pounds of meat — 18 ounces salt, 2 ounces pepper, 4 
ounces sage. 

HEAD CHEESE. 

Soak the upper parts of the heads for a day or two in water 
in which enough salt has been put to make a fairly strong brine. 
This will remove all the blood and render them white and pure. 
They should have been thoroughly cleaned before placing in the 
brine. Boil until the bones will drop easily. Let cool, then chop 
finely. Season to taste with pepper salt and such aromatic herbs 
as liked, as sage, summer savory, etc. Place in a deep earthen dish 
or crock and weight so as to form a firm mass. Let remain until 
well set. It may be served cold, cut in thin slices, or sliced and 
rolled in flour and fried. It makes a nice breakfast dish. 

PIGS' FEET. 

Thoroughly clean the feet, then boil until the bones are ready 
to drop out. When cold they may be put into a hot spiced vinegar. 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE. 

Six pounds of lean beef, 1 pound salt pork, 3 pounds lean fresh 
pork, 1 pound beef suet, 1 ounce white pepper, 1 teaspoonful ground 
mace, 3 ounces salt, one teaspoonful cayenne, 1 large onion chopped 
fine. Chop the meat and suet separately very fine, then mix; add 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 163 

all the seasoning, and mix thoroughly. Fill into casings and tie 
into lengths, or use strong linen bags. Make a brine that will bear 
an egg; put the sausage into it, and let stand two weeks, turning 
and skimming every day. At the end of the first week throw away 
the old brine, and put the sausage into new for the second week; 
then smoke for a week. When smoked rub over the outside with 
olive oil, and store in a cool, dark, dry place. If you wish to keep 
the sausage for any length of time sprinkle the outside with pepper. 

PICKLING BEEF. 

NO. 1. 

For 100 pounds of beef, fresh killed, take twelve pounds of 
salt, eight pounds of brown sugar, one ounce of saltpeter, and mix 
thoroughly. Cut the beef in suitable pieces and pack in the barrel, 
using the mixture as you pack. Weight the meat down, after pack- 
ing closely and tightly, and leave twenty-four hours ; then cover 
well with cold water, and Aveight well to keep the meat under the 
brine, tipping the barrel back and forth frequently to keep the 
brine well stirred up. This meat will keep all summer, and when 
wanted for use, will need no freshening, but should be simply 
washed in cold water and boiled slowly until the bones will slip 
out. The meat must at all times be completely covered with the 
brine, and well weighted to keep it under. 

NO. 2. 

For 100 pounds of beef, dissolve 8 pounds of best salt, 4 pounds 
of brown sugar and 4 ounces of saltpeter in water, boil, skim and 
pour on boiling hot. Weight the meat down securely. 



164 THE FABMERH' GUIDE BOOK 



COMMISSION MERCHANTS. 

While we do not guarantee the reliability of any commission 
merchant, we believe that those listed below will give you a square 
deal. Should they not do so, please notify us at once. 

We advise caution in shipping to unknown firms who send out 
quotations higher than those of established houses. Such parties 
are often irresponsible, and are in the habit of pocketing the entire 
returns and leaving for parts unknown. Avoid them. 

BALTIMORE, MD. 

THOMAS BOND & SON, Fruits and Vegetables, 17 E. Camden St. 

THE SNYDER & BLANKFARD CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 220-222 Light St. 

STEVENS BROTHERS, Fruits and Produce, 226 Charles St. 

BOSTON, MASS. 

ALLEN-HURD CO., Fruits and Produce, 4 New Fanuel Hall Market. 

CHAPIN BROTHERS, Fruits and Produce, 107-109 Market St. 

COLLINS, PRATT & GRAVES CO., Fruits and Produce, Poultry and Eggs, 
13 North Side Fanuel Hall Market. 

T. E. HOLWAY & CO., Fruits and General Produce, 15 North Market St. 

J. D. MEAD COMPANY, Fruits and General Produce, cor. Clinton and Fulton 
St.s. 

A. F. YOUNG & CO., Fruits, Onions and Potatoes, 77 Clinton St. 

POTTER & WILLIAMS CO., INC., Fruits and General Produce, 144-146 Michi- 
gan Ave. 

BUFFALO, N. Y. 

BURT H. BEAN, PVuits and Produce in car lots, W. Market and Perry Sts. 

F. BRENNISEN & SON, General Commission Merchants, 156-158 Michigan Ave. 

G. M. WATTLES & SON, Wholesale Butter, Eggs and Cheese, 152 Michigan Ave. 
DANIEL BOOSING, Wholesale Butter, Eggs and Cheese, 154 Michigan Ave. 
GEO. R. WHITNEY, Wholesale Butter Eggs, and Cheese, 42 W. Market St. 

CHICAGO, ILL. 

BARNETT BROS., Vegetables, Butter, Eggs and General Produce, 117 W. So. 

Water St. 
COYNE BROS., Vegetables, Butter, Eggs and Poultry, 119 W. So. Water St, 
A. L. McCLAY & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 131 W. So. Water St. 
G. M. H. WAGNER & SONS, Fruits and Vegetables, 123 W. So. Water St. 

CINCINNATI, O. 

F. ANKENBAUER & SONS, Fruits and Vegetables, 118 E, Front St. 
ARMACOST, RILEY & CO., Fruits and General Produce, 111-113 E. Front St. 
L J. CANNON & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 110 E. Front St. 

G. E. MARKLEY & CO., Foreign and Domestic Fruits, Vegetables, 212-214 

W. Sixth St. 
L N. PIERCE & CO., Foreign and Domestic Fruits, Vegetables, 224 W. Sixth St. 
HENRY RANSICK & SONS, Fruits and Produce, 226 W. Sixth St. 
THE WEIL-BROCKMAN CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 107-109 E. Front St. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 165 

CLEVELAND, O. 

THE BIGALOW FEUIT CO., Fruits and Produce, Cor. E. Ninth and Broadway. 
H. M. STRAUSS & CO., Fruits and Produce, Hay and Grain, 933 Garfield Bldg. 

COLUMBUS, O. 

THE EVANS & TURNER CO., Fruits and Produce, 123 Chestnut St. 

THE WILLIAM FISHER & SONS CO., Fruits & Produce, 120 E. Towne St. 

DETROIT, MICH. 

F. M. BALDWIN & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 360 Jefferson Ave. 

GEO. L. COLLINS & CO., Wholesale Fruits, Produce and Poultry, 29 Wood- 
bridge St. 

CHAS. BROWN & CO., Fruits and Produce, Eastern Market. 

EDWARD READE & SON, Fruits, Vegetables, Beans, etc., 26 W. Woodbridge 
St. 

J. M. SMITH & CO., Wholesale Fruits and Produce, 41 W. Woodbridge St. 

INDIANAPOLIS, IND. 

GEO. HITZ & CO., Foreign and Domestic Fruits and Vegetables, 30-34 S. Dela- 
ware St. 
J. L. KEACH, Fruits and Produce, 112 S. Delaware St. 
JOHN W. NEUMAN & CO., Fruits and Produce, 29 S. Delaware St. 

KANSAS CITY, MO. 

C. C. CLEMONS PRODUCE CO., Wholesale Fruits and Produce, 128 and 132 

Grand Ave. 
DOUGLAS-AGNEW FRUIT CO., Wholesale Fruits and Produce, 419 Walnut St. 

LOUISVILLE, KY. 

JOS. DENUNZIO FRUIT CO., Fruits, Vegetables and Produce, 112 W. Jefferson 

St. 
KOHLHEPP & lULA, Fruits and General Produce, 200 E. Jefferson St. 

D. B. SPERRY, Apples, Potatoes, Beans and Onions, 108-110 S. Second St. 

MILWAUKEE, WIS. 

A. G. EISSLER & CO., Fruits and Produce, 275 Broadway. 

E. R. GODFREY & SONS CO., Fruits and Produce, 257 Broadway. 

A. GROSSENBACH CO., Fruits, Produce and Vegetables, 299-303' Broadway. 
A. J. W. PIERCE CO., Produce, Vegetables, Eggs and General Commission, 
305-307 Broadway. 

MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 

GRINNELL, COLLINS CO., Green Fruits and Country Produce, 212 Sixth 

St., N. 
C. E. HEALY & SON, Wholesale Dealers in Potatoes and Produce, 125 N. 
Sixth St. 

NEW ORLEANS, LA. 

E. P. STACY & SONS, Fruits and Produce, 200-202 Sixth St., N. 
JORDAN BROS., Fruits and Produce, 206 Sixth St., N. 
GEO. W. DAVIDSON & CO., Fruits and Produce, 309-313 Povdras St. 
NOBLE & SALTER, Fruits and Produce, 201-215 Gravier St. 



166 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

NEW YORK, N. Y. 

J. H. BAHEENBURG BRO. & CO., Fruits and Produce, 103-105 Murray St. 
E. R. BRACKETT CO., Fruits and Vegetables, cor. Franklin and West "Sts. 
W. J. & S. H. DAVENPORT, Fruits and Produce, 130 Park Place. 
R. W. DIXONS & SON, Fruits and Produce, 266 Washington St. 
S. H. & E. H. FROST, Fruits and Vegetables, 319 Washington St. 
FURMAN & PAGE, Fruits. Vegetables and Produce, 112 Warren St. 
HORACE B. HANSON, Fruits and Produce, 180 Reade St. 
HENRY L. HUNTER, INC., Fruits and Produce, 849 Morris Ave. 
McCORMICK, HUBBS <Sr CO., Fruits and Produce, 279 Washington St. 
JOHN NIX & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 281 Washington St. 
OLIVIT BROS., INC., Fruits and Vegetables, 335 Washington St. 
SIMONS, SHUTTLEWORTH & FRENCH CO., INC., Exporters and Importers 

of Green Fruits, 204 Franklin St. 
A. r. YOUNG & CO., Vegetables and Fruits, Washington and Duane Sts. 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

E. S. ARMSTRONG & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 132 Dock St. 

BARKER & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 226 Dock St. 

WILLIAM G. BONSTEDT, Fruits and Produce, 10 S. Front St. 

BROWN & McMAHON, Fruits and Vegetables, 334 N. Front St. 

G. W. BUTTERWORTH, Fruits and Vegetables. N.E. cor. Second and Dock Sts. 

C. G. JUSTICE CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 123 Dock St. 

W. H. MICHAEL & SON, Fruits and Vegetables, 114 Dock St. 

P. S. SCOTT CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 150 Dock St. 

H. B. WILLIAMS. INC., Fruit and Produce, 29-30 Market St. 

E. S. WOODWORD & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 122 Dock St. 

PITTSBURGH, PA. 

M. O. COGGINS CO., Fruits, A^egetables and Poultry, 56 21st St. 
JAMES M. FANNING, Fi-uits, Produce. Eggs and Poultry, 60 21st St. 
JOSEPH FLAHERTY, Fruits and Produce, cor. Penn Ave. and 21st St. 
KOEHLER PRODUCE CO., Fruits and Produce, 18th St. and Penn Ave. 
JOHN WALLACE, Fruits, Vegetables, Butter. Eggs and Poultry, 205 21st St. 

RICHMOND, VA. 

S. F. PADGETT & CO., Fruits, Vegetables, Butter and Eggs, 1303 E. Gary St. 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 

GERBER FRUIT CO., Fruits and Produce, 804-806 N. Fourth St. 

F. W. BRACKMAN COMMISSION CO., Eggs, Poultry, Butter, Fruit, 817 N. 

Fourth St. 

ST. PAUL, MINN. 

AUGUST AMMON, Fruits and Produce, 67 E. Third St. 

DORE-REDPATH CO., Fruits, Vegetables and Produce, 111-115 E. Third St. 

J. W. Fillebrown & Co., Wholesale Fruits, Nuts and Vegetables, 79 E. Third St. 

TOLEDO, O. 

M. O. BAKER & CO., Fruits, Vegetables, Butter and Eggs, 139-141 S. Huron St. 
THE GEROE CO., Foreign and Domestic Fruits and Produce, 32-36 N. Huron St. 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 

E. J. ADAMS & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 907-909 B St., N. W. 

ROBERT L. ANDERSON, Fruits and Vegetables, 919 B St., N. W. 

W. H. HARRISON, Fruits and Vegetables, 905 B St., N. W. 

KREY, PRICE & CO., Live Stock, Poultry, Eggs and Produce, 923 Louisiana 

Ave, N. W. 
J. R. SHERWOOD, 905 Louisiana Ave. N. W. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 16 7 

CUT-FLOWER COMMISSION MERCHANTS. 

BOSTON, MASS. 

N. F. McCAKTHY & CO., 84 Hawlev St. 
H. M. E0BIN80N & CO., 15 Providence St. 

BUFFALO, N. Y. 
WM. F. KASTING CO., 385 Ellicott St. 

CHICAGO, ILL. 

CHAS. W. McKELLAR, 51 Wabash Ave. 
PETER REINBERG. 51 Wabash Ave. 
T. A. BUDLONG, 37-39 Randolph St. 

CINCINNATI, O. 

THE J. M. Mc-CULLOUGfT'S SON'S CO., 310 Walnut St. 

DETROIT, MICH. 

MICHIGAN CUT FLOWER EXCHANGE, 38-40 Broadway. 

MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 
RICE BROTHERS, 113 N. Sixth St. 

NEW YORK CITY. 

NEW YORK CUT FLOWER CO., Sixth Ave. and 28th St. 

HENSHAW & FRENCH, 51 W. 28th St. 

M. C. FORD, 121 W. 28th St. 

A. L. YOUNG & CO., 54 W. 28th St. 

BAGLEY, RIEDEL & MEYER, INC., 34 W. 28th St. 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

LEO NIESSON & CO., 1209 Arch St. 

THE S. 8. PENNOCK-MEEHAN CO., 1 808-1812 Ludlow St. 



168 THE F AR M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 



WHERE TO BUY. 

A request from you to any of the firms listed below will bring 
their latest catalog and price-list, or you will be put in touch with 
their nearest dealer. While we make no guarantees, we believe that 
every firm listed is absolutely reliable. Should your dealings with 
them prove unsatisfactory, please notify us at once. 

ACETYLENE LIGHT PLANTS. 

THE GEM CITY ACETYLENE GENERATOR CO., Dayton O. 
UNION CARBIDE SALES CO., 42nd St. Building, NeW York. 

ALABASTINE. 

ALABASTINE CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. 

ALARM CLOCKS. 
WESTCLOCK, La Salle, 111. 

ALFALFA SEED. 

THE WING SEED CO., Mechanicsburg, O. 
A. B. LYMAN, Excelsior, Minn. 
N. WERTHEIMER, Ligonier, Ind. 

ALUMINXJM WARE. 

THE ALUMINUM COOKING UTENSILS CO., New Kensington, Pa. 

APPLE BARRELS. 

ROBERT GILLIES, Medina N. Y. 

BECKER BROS., 389 William St., Buffalo, N. Y. 

QUAKER CITY COOPERAGE CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

AUTOMATIC FEEDERS AND WATERERS. 
COLUMBIAN STEEL TANK CO., Kansas City, Mo. 

AUTOMOBILES. 

FORD MOTOR CO., Detroit, Mich. 
OAKLAND MOTOR CAR CO., Pontiac, Mich. 
HUDSON MOTOR CAR CO., Detroit, Mich. 
THE WILLYS-OVERLAND CO., Toledo, O. 
SAXON MOTOR CAR CO., Detroit, Mich. 
HUPP MOTOR CAR CO.. Detroit, Mich 
FRANKLIN AUTOMOBILE CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 

AUTO TRUCKS. 

CHASE MOTOR TRUCK CO., Syracuse N. Y. 

ATTERBURY MOTOR CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

THE AUTOCAR CO., Ardmore, Pa. 

INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER CO. OF AMERICA, Chicago, HI. 

THE AVERY CO., Peoria, HI. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 169 



BABCOCK CREAM TESTERS. 

CENTRAL SCIENTIFIC CO., Chicago, 111. 

BAGS. 
BUFFALO BAG CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

BARN EQUIPMENT. 
Stanchions, Litter Carriers, Bull Pens, Plans, Etc. 

THE HARRIS MFG. CO., Salem, O. 

JAMES BOYLE & SON, Salem, O. 

HUNT, HELM, FERRIS & CO., Harvarrl, III. 

JAMES MANUFACTURING CO., Fort Atchinson, Wis. 

WEST BEND BARN EQUIPMENT CO., West Bend, Wis. 

LOUDEN MACHINERY CO., Fairfield, Iowa. 

RICHARDS-WILCOX MFG. CO., Aurora, 111. 

BASKETS. 

BURLINGTON BASKET CO., Burlington, Iowa. 
WEBSTER BASKET CO., Webster, N. Y. 

BEES AND BEE SUPPLIES. 

DEHUHN & SONS, Hamilton, 111. 

W. T. FALCONER MFG. CO., Falconer, N. Y. 

THE A. I. ROOT CO., Medina, O. 

THE A. G. WOODMAN CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. 

DEDANT & SON, Hamilton, 111. 

BELTING. 
BICKFORD & FRANCIS BELTING CO.. 35 Pearl St., Buffalo, N. Y. 

BERRY BASKETS AND CRATES. 

MONTGOMERY BROTHERS CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

NEW ALBANY BOX AND BASKET CO., New Albany, Ind. 

BLACKSMITHS' FORGES. 

BUFFALO FORGE CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
C. A. S. FORGE WORKS, Saranac, Mich. 

BONE CUTTERS. 

STANDARD BONE CUTTER CO., Milford, Mass. 

STRATTON MFG. CO., Erie, Pa. 

F. W. MANN CO.. Milford. Mass. 

WILSON BROS., Easton, Pa. 

E. C. STURNS & CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 

BUILDING MATERIAL. 

GORDON-VAN TINE CO., Davenport, la. 

HARRIS BROS., Chicago, 111. 

CHICAGO MILL WORK SUPPLY CO., Chicago, 111. 

INTERNATIONAL MILL & TIMBER CO., Bay City, Mich. 



170 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



BUZZ SAWS FOR CUTTING CORD WOOD. 

A. W. GRAY'S SONS, Midtlletown, Vt. 

APPLETON MFG. CO., Batavia, 111. 

HERTZLER & ZOOK CO., Belleville. Pa. 

NP]W HOLLAND MACHINE CO., New Holland, Pa. 

CONSOLIDATED GAS ENGINE CO., 202 Fulton St., New York. 

CAMERAS. 
EASTMAN KODAK CO., Rochester, N. Y. 

CANOES Atn> BOATS. 

THE W. H. MULLINS CO., Salem, Ohio. 
OLD TOWN CANOE CO., Old Town, Maine. 
MICHIGAN STEEL BOAT CO., Detroit, Mich. 
DETROIT BOAT CO., Detroit, Mich. 

CARBIDE, CALCIUM. 

CALCIUM CARBIDE WORKS, Niagara Falls, N. Y. 

CARPENTERS' TOOLS. 

SIMMONS HARDWARE CO., New York and Philadelphia. 

CARRIAGES. 

ELKHART CARRIAGE & HARNESS CO., Elkhart, Ind. 

CHAS. H. CHILDS & CO., Utica, N. Y. 

THE OHIO CARRIAGE MFG. CO., Columbus, O. 

D. T. BOHON, Harrodsburg, Kv. 

STUDEBAKER, South Bend, Ind. 

CAST IRON PIPE. 

U. S. CAST IRON PIPE & FOUNDRY CO., New York City. 

CEMENT. 

THE ATLAS PORTLAND CEMENT CO., New York City. 
LEHIGH PORTLAND CEMENT CO., Allentown, Pa. 

CEMENT TOOLS. 

SMITH & HOLTON MFG. CO., Clinton, Wis. 

CHICKEN COOPS. 

THE NOVELTY MFG. CO., Abington, 111. 

CHURNS. 

THE NOVELTY MFG. CO., Abington, HI. 
COLUMBIAN MALL CRANE CO., Columbus, O. 
DE KING MFG. CO., Chicago, 111. 
THE FAYWAY CO., 117 John St., Cincinnati, O. 
THE MASON MFG. CO., Canton, 0. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 171 

CIDER MILLS AND PRESSES. 

THE HYDRAULIC PRESS CO., ;U) Courtlandt St., New York. 

THE G. J. EMERY CO., Fulton, N. Y. 

E. G. MENDENHALL, Kinmundy, 111. 

BOOMER & BOSCHERT PRESS CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 

A. B. FARQUHAR (;0., l^ork. Pa. 

PUFFER-HUBBARD MFG. CO., Minneaj.olis, Minn. 

hydraulic; press go., Mount Giliad, O. 

COOKING UTENSILS. 

LIFETIME ALUMINUM CO., Boston, Mass. 

CORN HUSKERS. 

APPLETON MFG. CO., Batavia, 111. 

CORN PLANTERS. 

BELCHER & TAYLOR AGRICULTURAL TOOL CO., Chicopee Falls, Mass. 

CORN TESTER. 

NATIONAL SEED TESTER CO., Des Moines, Iowa. 

■ CREAM SEPARATORS. 

D. H. BURRELL & CO., Little Falls, N. Y. 

THE DE LAVAL SEPARATOR CO., 165-167 Broadway, New York. 

THE SHARPLESS SEPARATOR CO., West Chester, Pa. 

AMERICAN SEPARATOR CO., Eainbridge N. Y. 

WM. GALLOWAY CO., Waterloo, Iowa. 

INTERNATIONAL HARVESTP:R CO., Cliicapo, 111. 

THE ROCK ISLAND PLOW CO., Rock Island, 111. 

ALBAUGH-DOVER CO., 2227 Marshall Blvd., Chicago, 111. 

VERMONT FARM MACHINE CO., Bellows Falls. Vt. 

THE STANDARD SEPARATOR CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 

RUMLEY PRODUCTS CO., INC., La Porte, Ind. 

EMPIRE CREAM SEPARATOR CO., Bloomfield. N. J. 

CULTIVATORS. 

BATEMAN MFG. CO., Greenloch, N. J. 
AMERICAN HARROW CO.. Detroit. Mich. 
JOHN DEER PLOW CO., Moline, 111. 
ROCK ISLAND PLOW CO., Rock Island, HI. 
S. L. ALLEN & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 

CUT CLOVER. 

W. R. CURTISS CO., Ransomville, N. Y. 

CUTLERY. 

LANDERS, FRARY & CLARK, New Brighton, Conn. 

DAIRY SUPPLIES. 

R. G. WRIGHT & CO., 98 E. Eagle St., Buffalo, N. Y. 



172 THE FAB MERS' GUIDE BOOK 

DAY-OLD CHICKS. 

EMPIRE POULTRY FARM, Seward, N. Y. 

CONNER'S POULTRY FARM, Angola, N. Y. 

BRANFORD FARMS, Groton, Conn. 

ARTHUR H. PENNY, Mattituck, N. Y. 

WARD W. DASEY, Frankford, Del. 

WINSOR FARM, R. P. D. No. 3. Acushnet Station, New Bedford, Mass 

MICHIGAN POULTRY FARM, Lansing, Mich. 

TENACRE POULTRY FARM, Cedar Grove, Princeton, N. J. 

BELLMOSS POULTRY FARM, Hudson, Mass. 

SHADY HILL POULTRY FARM, Bolton, Mass. 

THE KEER CHICKERY, Frencbtown, N. J. 

JACOB NEIMOND, Richfield, Pa. 

FERNWOOD POULTRY FARM, Salt Point, N. Y. 

DEHORNING SHEARS. 

JOHN W. GRAY & CO., 168 W. 2.3rd St.. New York. 
M. T. PHILLIPS, Pomeroy, Pa. 

DISINFECTANTS AND LICE EXTERMINATORS. 

CHEMO CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

PARK, DAVIS & CO., Detroit, Mich. 

DITCHING MACHINES. 

THE BUCKEYE TRACTION DITCHER CO., Findley, O. 
THE JESCHKE MANUFACTURING CO., Bellevue, O. 
OWENSBORO DITCHER & GRADER CO., Owensboro, Ky. 
BAKER-BARROB, INC., Barron Bldg., New York City. 

DOGS. 

Collies. 
IMNA KENNELS, West Simsburv, Conn. 
SUNNY BRAE COLLIE KENNELS, Bloomington, III. 
NELSON'S, Grove City, Pa. 

WHITE STAR KENNELS, Long Branch, N. J. 
AMERICAN KENNELS, 2.3.3 Third Ave., New York City. 

Great Danes. 
BOHRER KENNELS, Lynbrook, Long Island. 

Pointers and Setters. 
THE MIDKIFF KENNELS, Dallos, Pa. 

German Shepherd Dogs. 
ELMVIEW KENNELS, 333 Connell Bldg., Scranton, Pa. 

Fox Hounds. 

FIELD'S KENNELS, Somers. Conn. 

DRAIN TILE. 

B. G. ABBEY, Allen's Hill, N. Y. 

A. S. CHILDS, Geneva, N. Y. 

JOHN J. JACKSON, Albany, N. Y. 

LYTHE TILE CO., Angola, N. Y. 

NATIONAL FIRE PROOFING CO., Fulton, Bldg., Pittsburgh, Pa. 

WM. T. LEGGETT CO., Pittsburgh, Pa. 

PECK & WOOD, E. Bethany, N. Y. 

TOMPKINS BROS., 257 Broadway, New York. 

THE ROBINSON CLAY PRODUCTS CO., Flatiron Bldg., New York. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 173 



ELECTRIC SUPPLIES. 

WESTINGHOUSE ELECTEIC MFG. CO., East Pittsburgh, Pa. 
ROBERTSON ELECTRIC CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

ENGLISH WALNUT TREES (Hardy in the North.) 

DANIEL N. POMEROY, Lockport, N. Y. 
J. F. JONES, Lancaster, Pa. 

ENSILAGE CUTTERS. 

KALAMAZOO TANK & SILO CO., Kalamazoo. Mich. 

IRONWOON MFG. CO.. Bellefontaine, O. 

RUMLEY PRODUCTS 00., Elmira, N. Y. 

JOSEPH DICK MFG. CO., Canton, O. 

THE SMALLEY MFG. CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 

THE SILVER MFG. CO., Salem, O. 

PAPEC MACHINE CO., Shortsville, N. Y 

THE E. W. ROSS CO., Springfield, O. 

EVAPORATING MACHINERY. 

BOUTELL MANUFACTURING CO., 558 Lyell Ave., Rochester, N. Y. 

FARM AGENCIES. 

STATE BOARD OF AGRICULTURE, Dover, Del. 

R. B. CHAFFIN & CO., Inc.. Richmond, Va. 

GREIN & CO., Pearl St., Buffalo, N. Y. 

F. MAXON ESTEE, Brisbane Bldg., Buffalo. N. Y. 

J. C. ELLIS, Springvir.r, N. Y 

BALL'S FARM AGENCY, Owego, N. Y. 

PILE & CO., INC., Petersburg, Va. 

J. B. RICE & CO., Warren, O. 

M. R. RICHARDS, Washington, D. C. 

FARM GATES. 

ROWE MFG. CO., Galesburg, 111. 
KITZLEMAN BROS., Muncie. Ind. 
CYCLONE FENCE CO., Waukegan, 111. 

FARM TRACTORS. 

BULLOCK TRACTOR CO., Chicago, 111. 
A. B. FARQUAHR CO.. LTD.. York, Pa. 

EMERSON-BRANTINGHAM IMPLEMENT CO., Rockford, 111. 
THE HOLT MFG. CO., Peoria, 111. 

BULL TRACTOR CO., 27th and University S. E., Minneapolis, Minn. 
INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER CO. OF AMERICA, Chicago, 111. 
ELECTRIC WHEEL CO., Quiney. 111. 
HUBER MFG. CO., Marion. O. " 

FEED IN CAR LOTS. 
Cotton Seed Meal. 
THE WILLIAM A. BURNETT CO.. Louisville, Ky. 

Alfalfa Meal. 
EMPIRE STATE ALFALFA MILLS. Munnsville, N. Y. 



174 THE F A R 31 E R S' GUIDE BOOK 

Cotton Seed Meal, Linseed, Bran, Etc. 
THE BABTLETT CO., Jacksou, Mich. 

Molassine Meal. 
MOLASSINE COMPANY, 331 Board of Trade, Boston, Mass. 

Blatchford's Calf Meal. 
BLATCHFORD CALF MEAL FACTORY, Waukegan, 111. 

Chick Feed. 

THE H-O COMPANY MILLS, Buffalo. N. Y. 

Dairy, Poultry, Hog and Horse Feed. 
INTERNATIONAL SUGAR FEED CO., Minneapolis, Minn. 

Gluten Feed and Scratch Feed for Chicks. 
CONTINENTAL CEREAL CO., Peoria, 111. 

Dairy Feed. 
CLOVER LEAF MILLING CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

FEED COOKERS. 

LEWIS MANUFACTURING CO., Courtland, N. Y. 

FEED GRINDING MILLS. 

THE A. W. STRAUB CO., 3709 S. Ashland Ave., Chicago, 111. 
THE LETZ MFG. CO., Crown Point, Ind. 
N. H. BOWSHER, South Bend, Ind. 

FERTILIZERS. 

COLE-MORTIMER CO., 51 Chamber St.. New York City. 

THE CHEMICAL LABORATORIES CO.. Toronto, Can. 

NITRATE AGENCIES CO., 1204 Hartford Bldg., Chicago, 111. 

THE MAPES FORMULA & PERUVIAN GUANO CO., 143 Liberty St., N. Y. 

BOWKER FERTILIZER CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

VIRGINIA-CAROLINA CHEMICAL CO., Richmond, Va. 

A. H. CHASE & CO., 965 William St., Buffalo, N. Y. 

FIRE ARMS AND AMMUNITION. 

BAKER GUN CO., Batavia, N. Y. 

ITHACA GUN CO., Ithaca, N. Y. 

IV ER JOHNSON ARMS & CYCLE WORKS, Fitchburg Mass 

MARLIN FIREARMS CO., New Haven, Conn. 

SAVAGE ARMS CO., Utica, N. Y. 

REMINGTON ARMS CO., 299 Broadway, New York 

.J. STEVENS ARMS & TOOL CO.. Chicopee Falls, Mass. 

COLT'S PATENT FIRE ARMS CO., Hartford, Conn. 

THE UNION ARMS CO., 619 Auburndale Ave., Toledo, O. 

FIRELESS COOKERS. 

BUFFALO FIRE EXTINGUISHER CO., 67 Carroll St., Buffalo, N. Y. 
WM. CAMPBELL CO., Detroit, Mich. 

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS. 

BUFFALO FIRE EXTINGUISHER CO., 67 Carroll St., Buffalo N. Y. 
PYRENE MFG. CO., 1358 Broadway, N. Y. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 175 



FLASHLIGHTS. 

AMERICAN EVER-READY WORKS, Long Island City, N. Y. 

FRUIT PICKING BAGS. 

BARKER MFG. CO., 35 Ambrose St., Rochester, N. Y. 

FURS (Buyers.) 

FUNSTON BROS. & CO., 119 Funston Bldg., St. Louis, Mo. 

ANDERSCH BROS., Minneapolis, Minn. 

DEAN B. FURST, Lock Haven, Pa. 

M. J. JEWETT & SONS, Redwood, N. Y. 

McMillan fur & wool CO., Minneapolis, Minn. 

WARENOFF & KLEIN, 154 W. 24th St., New York. 

L. A. ROBENSTEIN FUR CO., 52 W. 28th St., New York. 

DAVID BLUSTEIN & BRO., 24 E. 12th St., New York. 

GASOLINE AND GAS ENGINES. 

OLIN GASOLINE ENGINE CO., Terrace, Buffalo, N. Y. 

WITTE IRON WORKS CO., Kansas City, Mo. 

GRAY MOTOR CO., Detroit Mich. 

SEAGER ENGINE WORKS, Lansing, Mich. 

UNITED STATES ENGINE WORKS, 1504 Canal St., Chicago, 111. 

ELLIS ENGINE CO., Detroit, Mich 

THE THOMPSON CO., Beloit, Wis. 

THE MIDDLEDITCH ENGINE CO., Detroit, Mich. 

J. B. NORTON CO.. Utica, N. Y. 

CHARLES WILLIAM STORES, 612 Stores Bldg., New York. 

OTTAWA MFG. CO., 209 King St., Ottawa, Kan. 

DP]TROIT MOTOR CAR SUPPLY CO., Detroit, Mich. 

WM. GALLOWAY CO., Waterloo, Iowa. 

GLOVES. 

O. C. HANSON MFG. CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 

GRAIN BINS. 
COLUMBIAN STEEL TANK CO., Kansas City, Mo. 

GRAIN DRILLS. 

HERTZLER & ZOOK CO., Belleville, Pa. 
PEORIA DRILL & SEEDER CO., Peoria, HI. 
CROWN MFG. CO., Phelps, N. Y. 

GRAIN SPROUTERS. 

J. W. MILLER CO., Rockford, 111. 

OTIS & MOE MFG. CO.. 2011 Otis Bldg., Chicago, 111. 

CLOSE-TO-NATURE CO., Colfax, Iowa. 

DES MOINES INCUBATOR CO., Des Moines, Iowa. 

THE SMITH SPECIALTY CO., Mansfield, O. 

RELIANCE INCUBATOR CO., Freeport, 111. 

BERRY'S POULTRY FARM, Clarinda, Iowa. 

GREENHOUSES. 

LORD & BURNHAM CO., Irvington-on-Hudson, N. Y. 
JOHN C. MININGER CO., Morbridge Bldg., New York City. 



176 TEE F A R M E B S' GUIDE BOOK 

GKIND STONES. 
EICHARDS, WILCOX MFG. CO., Aurora, III. 

HARNESSES. 

AMSEE HARNESS MFG. CO., St. Joseph, Mo. 

JOHN H. SMITH & SONS, 57 Terrace, Buffalo, N. Y. 

KING HARNESS CO., Rome, N. Y. 

BROWN, WHITTEN & CO., Pine Bush, N. Y. 

MUTUAL CARRIAGE & HARNESS CO., East St. Louis, 111. 

H. & M. HARNESS SfiOP, St. Joseph, Mo. 

HARROWS OF ALL KINDS. 

S. L. ALLEN CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 
CUTAWAY HARROW CO., Higganum. Conn. 
MONMOUTH PLOW FACTORY, Monmouth, 111. 
HOWELL-GILMORE MFG. CO., Lomax, 111. 

HAY PRESSES. 

THE AUTO-FEDAN HAY PRESS CO.. Kansas City, Mo. 

RUMLEY PRODUCTS CO.. Elmira, N. Y. 

SANDWICH MANUFACTURING CO., Sandwich, 111. 

COLLINS PLOW CO., Quincv, 111. 

ANN ARBOR MACHINE CO.', Ann Arbor, Mich. 

ADMIRAL HAY PRESS CO., Kansas City, Mo. 

HEATING SYSTEMS. 

AMERICAN RADIATOR CO., Chicr.ffo. 111. 

KALAMAZOO STOVE CO., Kalamazoo. Mich. 

NORTH AMERICAN CONSTRUCTION CO., Bay City, Mich. 

HIDES TANNED; COATS, ROBES AND MITTENS MADE. 

THE CROSBY-FRISIAN FUR CO., 571 Lyell Ave., Rochester, N. Y. 
SYLVANIA TANNING CO., Sylvania, O. 

HOGS. 

Beri: shires. 
TOMPKINS FARM, Landsdale, Pa. 
J. E. WATSON, Marbledale, Conn. 
ROLLING HILL FARM, E. Norwich, L. L, N. Y. 
R. Y. BUCKLEY, Brod Axe, Pa. 
H. C. & H. B. HARPENDING, Dundee, N. Y. 
M. H. TAYLOR, West Alexander, Pa. 

Chester Whites. 
EUGENE T. BLACK, Scio, N. Y. 
VICTOR FARMS, Bellvale, Orange Co., N. Y. 
EDWARD WALTER, Eureka Stock Farm, West Chester, Pa. 

O. L C. 

HENRY A. STANG, Pearl River, Rockland Co., N. Y. 

VICTOR FARMS, Bellville, Orange Co., N. Y. 

G. S. BENJAMIN, Portland, Mich. 

THE L. B. SILVER CO., 103 Vicars Bldg., Cleveland, O. 

F. B. GARNER, Cincinnatus, N. Y. 

Jersey Reds. 

ARTHUR J. COLLINS, Moorestown, N. J. 
OAKWOOD FARM, Newburg, N. Y. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 177 

HOG CHOLERA SERUM. 

DIRECTOR OF YOUR EXPERIMENT STATION. 

HOG TROUGHS. 

OAKS & BURGER, Cattaraugus, N. Y. 
COLUMBIAN STEEL TANK CO., Kansas City, Mo. 

HORSE BLANKETS. 

CHARLES WILLIAM STORES, 22 Stores Bldg., New York. 

HORSE CLIPPING MACHINES. 

CHICAGO FLEXIBLE SHAFT CO., La Salle Ave., and Ontario St., Chicago. 
GILLETTE CLIPPING MACHINE CO., 114 W. 32nd St., New York. 

HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR. 

CHICAGO-KENOSHA HOSIERY CO., Kenosha, Wis. 

D. E. SICHER & CO., New York. 

HOLEPROOF HOSIERY CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 

CHALMERS KNITTING CO., Amsterdam, N, Y, I 

FULD & HATCH KNITTING CO., Albany, N. Y. 

COOPER, WELLS & CO., St. Joseph, Mich. i . 

MeCALLUM HOSIERY CO., Northampton, Mass. ' 

H. B. GLOVER CO., Dubuque, Iowa. 

HOTBED SASH. 
C. N. ROBINSON & BRO., Baltimore, Md. 

HYDRAULIC RAMS. 

POWER SPECIALTY CO., Ill Trinity Bldg., New York. 
RIFLE ENGINE CO., 2429 Trinity Bldg., New York. 

ICE TOOLS. 1 

WM. P. PRAY, Verbank, N. Y. 

WISNER MFG. CO., Greenwich St., New York. ; 

INCUBATORS. 

RELIABLE INCUBATOR AND BROODER CO., Quiney, 111. 

X-RAY INCUBATOR CO., Des Moines, Iowa. 

CYPHERS INCUBATOR CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

WISCONSIN INCUBATOR CO., Racine, Wis. 

PRAIRIE STATE INCUBATOR CO., Homer City, Pa. 

SURE HATCH INCUBATOR CO., Fremont, Neb. 

ROCKFORD INCUBATOR CO., Rockford, HI. 

RAYO INCUBATOR CO., Omaha, Neb. 

WARSAW INCUBATOR CO., Warsaw, 111. 

M. M. JOHNSON CO., Clay Center, Neb. 

MOLINE PRESSED STEEL CO., E. Moline, 111, 

CORNELL INCUBATOR MFG. CO., Ithaca, N. Y. 

THE BUCKEYE INCUBATOR CO., Springfield, O. 

BURR INCUBATOR CO., Omaha, Neb. 

THE UNITED FACTORIES CO., Cleveland, O. 



178 THE F A R M E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 

MAMMOTH INCUBATORS. 

THE HALL MAMMOTH INCUBATOR MFG. CO., Utica, N. Y. 
CANDLE INCUBATOR AND BROODER CO., Eastwood, N. Y. 
CYPHERS INCUBATOR CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
NEWTON GIANT INCUBATOR CO., Harrisonburg, Va. 

IRRIGATION SYSTEMS. 

C. W. SKINNER, Newfield, N. J. 
SKINNER IRRIGATION CO., Troy, O. 

IRON CORN CRIBS AND BINS. 
THE IRON CRIB AND BIN CO., Wooster, O. 

LADDERS. 

J. S. TILLEY, Watervliet, N. Y. 
BACON & CO., Appleton, N. Y. 

LAMPS. 

WHITE FLAME LAMP CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. (Oil.) 
THE ELECTRIC STORAGE BATTERY CO., Philadelphia, Pa. (Electric.) 
UNIVERSAL BATTERY CO., 3412 S. La Salle St., Chicago, 111. (Electric.) 
HOME SUPPLY CO., Kansas City Mo. (Oil.) 

LAND FOR FARM PURPOSES. 

Land in the Canadian Wheat Belt. 

W. D. SCOTT, Superintendent of Immigration, Ottawa, Canada. 
F. A. HARRISON, 210 N. 3rd St., Harrisburg, Pa. 

U. S, Government Land. 

Write to the General Land Office, Washington, D. C, for pamphlets en- 
titled, "Suggestions to Homesteaders and Persons Desiring to Make Home- 
stead Entries," and the last edition of "The Unappropriated Lands in the 
United States." It may be said, however, in this connection, that, with the 
exception of the land that has been reclaimed and is sold with water rights, 
about all the desirable government land has now been taken up. 

Railroad Lands. 

Many railroads have land which they are selling at a low price and on 
easy terms. Following are the addresses of a few of their agents: 
WILBUR McCOY, Atlantic Coast Line, Jacksonville, Fla. 
JOHN SEBASTIAN, 1902 Frisco Bldg., St. Louis, Mo. 
F. H. LA BAUME, Norfolk and Western Ry., Roanoke, Va. 

C. L. SEAGRAVES, A. T. & S. F. Ry., 2301 Railway Exchange, Chicago, 111. 
L, H. BELLAH, General Agt., N. C. & St. L. Ry., Nashville, Tenn. 

Farms in the Different States. 

Many of the Eastern states have compiled lists of farms which are un- 
occupied or for sale. These lists may be obtained free of charge by address- 
ing the Secretary of Agriculture of the state in which you wish to locate. 
Nearly every city in the West has a Board of Trade, the secretary of which 
will be glad to put you in touch with reputable land agents in their vicinity. 

LEATHER BELTING. 
BICKFORD & FRANCIS BELTING CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 179 

LIFTING DEVICES. 

CHAS. E. BENEFIEL CO., Industrial Bldg., Indianapolis, Ind. 

LIGHTING COUNTEY HOUSES. 

EDISON STOEAGE BATTERY CO., Orange, N. J. 
FAIEBANKS, MORSE CO., New York City. 
AUTOMATIC ELECTRIC WASHER CO., Newton, Iowa. 
FAY & BOWEN ENGINE CO., Geneva, N. Y. 

LIME. 

THE CARBON LIMESTONE CO., 712 Stamhaugh Bldg., Youngstown, O. 

THE BUFFALO FERTILIZER CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

THE CASPARIS STONE CO., Clinton Bldg., Columbus, O. 

THE KELLY ISLAND LIME AND TRANSPORT CO., Cleveland, O. 

ROCK CUT STONE CO., 531 Union Bldg., Syracuse, N. Y. 

AMERICAN LIME & STONE CO., Tyrone, Pa. 

THE AGRICULTURAL AND COMMERCIAL LIME CO., Canton, O. 

NATIONAL LIME AND STONE CO., Carey, O. 

EDISON PULVERIZED LIMESTONE CO., 113.3 Broadway, New York. 

ADAMS & DULFUED CO.. Chaumont, N. Y. 

H. J. BURKDORF, St. Johnsville, N. Y. 

CONLEY STONE CO., Utica, N. Y. 

SUGAR EIVEE STONE CO., Boonville, N. Y. 

WOELOCK STONE CO., Canastota, N. Y. 

KELLY ISLAND LIME & TRANSPORT CO., Youngstown, O. 

SECUEITY CEMENT & LIME CO., Berkley, W. Va. 

J. E. BAKER & CO., Bainbridge, Pa. 

CARBON LIMESTONE CO., Youngstown, O. 

EDISON PORTLAND CEMENT CO., Stewartsville, N. J. 

GRANGERS LIME & MARBLE CO., West Stockbridge. Mass. 

BESSEMER LIMESTONE CO., Youngstown, O. 

CHAZY MARBLE LIME CO., Chazy, N. Y. 

N. T. SMITH, Sharon Springs, N. Y. 

LIMESTONE CRUSHERS. 

THE JEFFREY MANUFACTURING CO., Columbus, O. 

WHEELING MOULD & FOUNDEY CO., Wheeling, W. Va. 

NEW HOLLAND MACHINE CO., New Holland, Pa. 

PENNSYLVANIA CEUSHER CO., Pittsburgh, Pa. 

UNIVEESAL CEUSHEB CO., Cedar Rapids, la. 

WILLIAMS PATENT CEUSHER & PULVERIZEE CO., St. Louis, Mo. 

LIME SPREADERS. 

WOODSDOEO LIME SPEEADEK CO.. Baltimore, Md. 

GEEENWOOD MFG. CO., Lawrence, Mass. 

BELCHER & TAYLOR AGEICULTUEAL TOOL CO., Chicopee Falls, Mass. 

LINENS. 

T. D. WHITNEY & CO., Temple PI. and West St., Boston, Mass. 
PAEKEE, WILDEE & CO., Boston and New York. 

LUMBER. 
HOME LUMBER & SUPPLY CO., 343 S. Dearborn St., Chicago, HI. 



180 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

MAIL OEDER HOUSES. 

SEAES & EOEBUCK, Chicago, ni. 

MONTGOMERY WARD & CO., Chicago, 111. 

LINCOLN, LEONARD & CO., Chicago, 111. • 

THE LARKIN CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

HARTMAN FURNITURE AND CARPET CO., Chicago, 111. 

MANURE SPREADERS. 

THE WILLIAM GALEA WAY CO., Waterloo, Iowa. 

THE NEW IDEA SPREADER CO., Coldwater, O. 

APPLETON MFG. CO., Batavia, 111, 

INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER CO. OF AMERICA, Chicago, 111. 

MAPLE SYRUP ARCHES AND EVAPORATORS. 

GRIMM MFG. CO., Cleveland, O. 

McLANE AND SCHANK HARDWARE CO., Linesville, Pa. 

MILKING MACHINES. 

EMPIRE CREAM SEPARATOR CO., Bloomfield, N. J. 
SHARPLESS SEPARATOR CO., New Castle, Pa. 
HINMAN MILKING MACHINE CO., Oneida, N. Y. 

MOLASSES FOR STOCK. 

PITTSBURG MOLASSES CO., 706 Penn Ave., Pittsburg, Pa. 
THE MOORE BROS., Albany, N. Y. 

MOTORCYCLES. 

HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTOR CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 

EMBLEM MFG. CO., Angola, N. Y. 

HENDEE MANUFACTURING CO., Springfield, Mass. 

IVER JOHNSON'S ARMS & CYCLE WORKS, Fitchburg, Mass. 

THE MIAMI CYCLE & MFG. CO., Middletown, O. 

NITRATE OF SODA. 

DR. WILLIAM S. MYERS, 25 Madison Ave., New York City. 
NITRATE AGENCIES CO., 106 Pearl St., New York City. 

NURSERIES. 

ELLW ANGER & BARRY, Rochester, N. Y. 

BROWN BROS., Rochester, N. Y. 

H. S. WILEY & SON, Cayuga, N. Y. 

STARK BROS., Louisiana, Mo. 

MAPLE BEND NURSERY, Perry, O. 

THE BARNES BROS. NURSERY CO., Yalesville, Conn. 

STORES & HARRISON, Painesville, 0. 

NELSON BOGUE, Batavia, N. Y. 

GREEN'S NURSERY CO.. Rochester, N. Y. 

HARRISON'S NURSERIES, Berlin, Md. 

ORCHARD HEATERS. 

THE RICHARDSON FROST PREVENTATION CO., Kansas City, Mo. 
ORCHARD SUPPLY CO., 826 N. Fourth St., St. Louis, Mo. 
THE HAMILTON ORCHARD HEATER CO., Wheeling, W. Va. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 181 

PAINTS. 

O. W. INGERSOLL, 246 Plymouth St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 

SEARS & ROEBUCK, Chicago, 111. 

NATIONAL LEAD & OIL CO., Pittsburg, Pa. 

BLACK DIAMOND PAINT AND VARNISH WORKS, Cincinnati, O. 

NEW JERSEY ZINC CO., 55 Wall St., New York City. 

JOHN LUCAS & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 

PAINT FOR TREE WOUNDS. 

B. C. PRATT CO., 50 Church St., New York City. 

PAPER TOWELS. 

SCOTT PAPER CO., 720 Glenwood Ave., Philadeli)hia, Pa. 

PARCEL POST BOXES. 
For Eggs, Day-old Chicks, Dressed Poultry, Etc. 

THE HINDE & DAUCHE PAPER CO., Sandusky, O. 

H. K. BRUMMER, 45 Harrison St., New York City. 

THE A. W. CRAWFORD CO., INC., South Weymouth, Mass. 

THE ANDREWS PAPER BOX CO., Chattanooga, Tenn. 

JOHN W. GRAY & CO., 168 W. 23rd St., New York City. 

TYWACANA FARMS POULTRY CO., Farmingdale, L. I., N. Y. 

PERIODICALS. 
The Leading Farm Papers. 

THE RURAL NEW-YORKER, New York City. 

COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, Philadelphia, Pa. 

FARM JOURNAL, Philadelphia, Pa. 

HOARD'S DAIRYMAN, Ft. Atkinson, Wis. 

IOWA HOMESTEAD, Des Moinea, Iowa. 

NATIONAL STOCKMAN AND FARMER, Pittsburg, Pa. 

NEW ENGLAND HOMESTEAD, Springfield, Mass. 

OHIO FARMER, Cleveland, Ohio. 

The Best Story Paper. 
THE YOUTH'S COMPANION, Boston, Mass. 

PHOSPHATE ROCK. 

FEDERAL CHEMICAL CO., Columbia. Tenn. 
ROBIN JONES PHOSPHATE CO., Nashville, Tenn. 

PIANOS. 

IVERS & POND PIANO CO., 131 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 
REED & SONS, Jackson Blvd. and Wabash Ave., Chicago, 111. 
J. B. THIERY, Milwaukee, Wis. 
WING & SON, New York City. 
CORNISH CO., Washington, N. J. 

PLOWS. 

GOWANDA PLOW CO.. Gowanda, N. Y. 
JOHN DEER CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 
HAPGOOD PLOW CO., Alton, III. 



182 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

PORTABLE POULTRY HOUSES. 

PEEFECTION POKTABLE POULTEY HOUSE CO., 4038 N. Cal. Ave., Chicago 

E. F. HODGSON CO., 116 WasMngton St., Boston, Mass. 
THE MILLEE MFG. CO., 8001 Alabama St., St. Louis, Mo. 
T. P. POTTEE & CO., Downers Grove, 111. 

POTASH FOR FERTILIZERS. 
GEARAN KALI WORKS, Inc., 42 Broadway, New York. 

POTATO PLANTERS AND DIGGERS. 

CHAMPION POTATO MACHINERY CO., Hammond, Ind. 
BATEMON MFG. CO., Greenloch, N. J. 
EUREKA MOWER CO., Utica, N. Y. 
S. L. ALLEN & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 
ASPINWALL MFG. CO., Jackson, Mich. 

POULTRY, EGGS FOR HATCHING AND DAY-OLD CHICKS. 

CONNER'S POULTEY FARM, Angola, N. Y. 

THE RANCOCAS POULTEY FAEM, Brown's Mills-In-The-Pines,, N. J. 

THE COENING EGG FAEM, Bound Brook, N. J. 

BRANFORD FARMS, Groton, Conn. 

G. F. GIBSON. Clyde, N. Y. 

SUNNY MEAD FARMS, Millstone, N. J. 

ARTHUR H. PENNY, Mattituck, N. Y. 

THE EVERLAY FARM, Methuen, Mass. 

MOHEGAN FARM POULTEY PLANT, Mohegan Lake. N. Y. 

JOHN H. WAEFEL & SON, Eohrerston. Pa. 

SUMMIT POULTRY FARM, Ridgely, Md. 

S. L. PARDIE, Genoa, N. Y. 

LAUEELTON FA EMS, Lakewood, N. J. 

C. W. TUENEE, West Hartford, Conn. 

POULTRY FOUNTAINS. 

THE CYPHERS INCUBATOR CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

OTIS & MOE MFG. CO.. 2001 Otis Bldg., Chicago, 111. 

C. A. S. FOEGE WOEKS, Saranac, Mich. 

WENDELL INCUBATOE CO.. Holly, Mich. 

IDEAL CAN CO.. 147 N. Washino^ton St., Boston, Mass. 

PAGE POULTEY SUPPLY CO., Rockford, HI. 

THE OAKS MFG. CO.. Tipton, Ind. 

POULTRY LITTER. 

O. K. COMPANY, 1.^57 Water St.. New York City. 

POULTRY PAPERS. 

AMERICAN POITLTRY JOTTRNAL, .542 S. Dearborn St., Chicago, HI. 
WESTERN POULTRY JOURNAL, Cedar Rapids, la. 
AMERICAN POULTRY ADVOCATE, Syracuse, N. Y. 

POWER PUMPS OF LARGE CAPACITY. 

SNOW STEAM PUMP WORKS. Buffalo, N. Y. 

PUMPS. 

THE GOULD MFG. CO., Seneca Palls, N. Y. 

F. E. MYERS & BRO., Ashland, Ohio. 
TEMPLE PUMP CO.. 109 Meager St.. Chicago. HI. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 183 



RASPBERRIES. 

WM. ALLEN, Salisbury, Md. 

WILLETT & WHEELOCK, N. Collins, N. Y 

L. J. FAEMER, Pulaski, N. Y. 

JOSEPH H. BLACK, SON & CO., Hightstown, N. J. 

T. B. WEST, Perry, O. 

REFRIGERATORS. 

MONROE REFRIGERATOR CO., Lockland, Ohio. 
McCRAY REFRIGERATOR CO., Kendallville, Ind. 
SEARS & ROEBUCK, Chicago, 111. 

ROAD MACHINERY. 

OWENSBORO DITCHER & GRADER CO., INC., Owensboro, Ky. 
GLIDE ROAD MACHINE CO., Minneapolis, Minn. 

ROOFING MATERIALS. 

THE UNITED FACTORIES CO., Cleveland, O. 

THE EDWARDS MFG. CO., Cincinnati, O. 

H. W. JOHNS-MANVILLE CO.. Chicago, 111. 

BIRD & SON, East Walpole, Mass. 

W. L. McCARRON & CO., 286 Dickey Bldg., Chicago, 111. 

THE OHIO GALVANIZING & MFG. CO.", Niles, O. 

AMERICAN SHEET &- TIN PLATE CO., Pittsburg, Pa. 

THE AMERICAN IRON ROOFING CO., Middleton, O. 

SYKES METAL LATH & ROOFING CO., Warren, O. 

AMERICAN ROLLING MILL CO., Middleton, O. 



RUBBER BOOTS. 

UNITED STATES RUBBER CO., New York City. 

SAW MILLS. 

A. B. FARQTTHAR CO., LTD., York, Pa. 

AMERICAN SAW MILL MACHINERY CO., Hacketstown, N. 

ENTERPRISE MFG. CO., Columbus, Ohio. 

SCALES, FARM. 

JONES OF BINGHAMTON, Binghamton, N. Y. 
THE BUFFALO SCALE CO., Buflfalo, N. Y. 
FAIRBANKS COMPANY. New York City. 
AMERICAN SCALE CO., Kansas City, Mo. 

SEEDS OF ALL KINDS. 

PETER HENDERSON & CO., New York Citv. 
WILLIAM MAULE, Philadelphia, Pa. 
HENRY DREER, Philadelphia, Pa. 
SALZER SEED CO., La Crosse, Wis. 
THE STORES & HARRISON CO., Paiuesville, Ohio. 
W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 
EDWARD F. DIBBLE, Hoveove Falls, N. Y. 
J. J. H. GREGORY & SONS, Marblehead, Mass. 

SHEEP MANURE. PULVERIZED, 

NATURAL GUANO CO.. Aurora, 111. 



184 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



SHTNGLE DIPS AND STAINS. 

STANDAED STAINED SHINGLE CO., N. Toiiawanda, N. Y. 
SAMUEL CABOT, INC., 8 Oliver St., Boston, Mass. 

SHIPPING COOPS. 

THE SEFTON MFG. CO., 1329 W. 35th St., Chicago, 111. 

SHOW COOPS. 

NIEMANN BEOS. MFG. CO., Mt. Olive, 111. 
WAENEE, "THE COOPMAN," Allegan, Mich. 

SILOS. 

INDIANA SILO CO., Anderson, Ind. 

GUEENSEY CLAY CO., Odd Fellows' Bldg., Indianapolis, Ind. 

FAEMEES' HANDY WAGON CO., Saginaw, Mich. 

CEEAMEEY PACKAGE CO., Eutland, Vt. 

E. W. BOSS CO., Springfield, O. 

THE NAPPANEE LUMBEE & MFG. CO., Nappanee, Ind. 

ECONOMY SILO MFG. CO., Frederick, Md. 

INTEENATIONAL SILO CO., Linesville, O. 

THE STEVENS TANK & TOWEE CO., Auburn, Me. 

THE PUFFEE-HUBBAED MFG. CO., Des Moines, la. 

UNADILLA MFG. CO., Unadilla, N. Y. 

THE W. L. SCOTT LUMBEE CO., Norwich, N. Y. 

HAEDEE MFG. CO., Cobleskill, N. Y. 

NATIONAL FIEE PEOOFING CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 

WOODS SILO & MFG. CO., Lincoln, Neb. 

INTEENATIONAL SILO CO., Linesville, Pa. 

SILVEEWAEE. 

INTEENATIONAL SILVEE CO., Meriden, Conn. 

ONEIDA COMMUNITY, LTD., Oneida, N. Y. 

THE HOLMES & EDWAEDS SILVEE CO., Bridgeport, Conn. 

SPRAYING MACHINES (POWER). 

AIE-TIGHT STEEL TANK CO., 30 Gloster St., Philadelphia, Pa. 

BATEMAN MFG. CO., Greenloch, N. J. 

BEAN SPEAY PUMP CO., Lansing Mich. 

BENNETT SPBAYEE <Sr ENGINE CO., Medina, O. 

THE E. C. BEOWN CO., Eochester, N. Y. 

CUSHMAN SPEAYEE CO.. St. Joseph, Mo. 

THE DEMING CO., Salem, O. 

DEYO-MACEY ENGINE CO., Binghamton, N. Y. 

DOMESTIC ENGINE & PUMP CO., Shippensburg, Pa. 

FIELD FORCE PUMP CO., Elmira, N. Y. 

FEIEND MFG. CO., Gasport, N. Y. 

THE GOULDS MFG. CO., Seneca Falls, N. Y. 

THE HAEDIE MFG. CO., Hudson, Mich. 

HAYES PUMP & PLANTEE CO., Galva, 111. 

THE H. L. HUEST CO., Canton, O. 

LE EOY PLOW CO., LeRoy, N. Y. 

MOEEILL & MORLEY MFG. CO., Benton Harbor, Mich. 

E. E. MYEES & SON, Ashland, O. 

EOCHESTEE SPEAY PUMP CO., Eochester, N. Y. 

THE STAHL SPEAYEE CO., Quincy, 111. 

SPEAY MOTOE WOEKS, 326 Erie St., Buffalo, N. Y. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 185 

SPRAY MATERIAL, MANUFACTURERS AND WHOLESALERS. 

ANSBACKEK & CO., 253 Broadway, New York City. 

APHINE MFG. CO., Madison, N. .1. (Aphine). 

BOWKER INSECTICIDE CO., 43 Chatham St., Boston, Mass. 

THE DOW CHEMICAL CO., Midland, Mich. 

FERGUSON BROS., 109 Chestnut St.. Philadelphia, Pa. (Copper Sulphate). 

GOOD, JAMES, 934-941 N. Front St., Phila.. Pa. (Fish Oil Soap). 

GRASSELLI CHEMICAL CO., Cleveland, Ohio. 

HEMINWAY'S LONDON PUEPLE CO., 133 Front St., New York City. 

HORTICULTURAL CHEMICAL CO., 12th and Chestnut Sts., Philadelphia, Pa,. 

KENTUCKY' TOBACCO PRODUCT CO., Louisville, Ky. 

FRED L. LAVANBURG, 100 William St., New York City. 

MECHLING BROS. MFG. CO., Camden, N. J. 

MERRIMAC CHEMICAL CO., 33 Broad St., Boston, Mass. 

NIAGARA SPRAYING CO., Middleport, N. Y. 

PRATT & CO., B. G., .50 Church St., New Y'ork City 

SHERWIN WILLIAMS PAINT CO., Cleveland, Ohio. 

TAYLOR, E. R., Penn Yan, N. Y. (Fuma Carbon Bi-sulphid). 

THOMSON CHEMICAL CO., Baltimore, Md. 

THUM, O. & W. CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. (Sticky materials for tree banding) „ 

TYSON, E. C, Floradale, Pa. (General Sales Agent for Spray Materials). 

VREELAND CHEMICAL CO., 50 Church St., New York City. 

STANCHIONS. 

C. H. ROBERTSON, Forestville, Conn. 
FOSTER STEEL STANCHION CO., Rochester, N. Y. 
THE WASSON STANCHION CO., Cuba, N. Y. 
WALLACE R. CRUMB, Forestville, Conn. 
WARSAW-WILKINSON CO., Warsaw, N. Y. 
LOUDEN MACHINERY CO., Fairfield, Iowa. 
HUNT-HELM-FERRIS CO., Harvard, 111. 
J. E. PORTER CO., Ottawa, III. 
HARRIS MFG. CO., Salem, O. 

STONE CRUSHERS. 

AUSTIN MANUFACTURING CO., Chicago, 111. 
ALLIS CHALMERS MFG. CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 
T. L. SMITH CO., 1126-C, 32nd St., Milwaukee. Wis. 
NEW HOLLAND MACHINE CO., New Holland, Pa. 

STOVES. 

HOOSIER STOVE CO., Marion, Ind. 

THE IMPERIAL STEEL RANGE CO., Cleveland, O. 

KALAMAZOO STOVE CO., Kalamazoo, Mich. 

MALLEABLE IRON CO., Beaver Dam, Wis. 

MAJESTIC MFG. CO.. St. Louis, Mo. 

MARVIN SMITH & CO., Chicago, 111. 

GOLD COIN STOVE CO., Troy, N. Y. 

MICHIGAN STOVE CO., Detroit, Mich. 

STRAWBERRY PLANTS. 

R. M. KELLOGG & CO., Three Rivers, Mich. 

WILLETT & WHEELOCK. North Collins, N. Y. 

WM. ALLEN, Salisbury, Md. 

JACOB BUZENBURG, Brant, N. Y. 

ALLEN BROS.. Paw Paw, Mich. 

J. W. ALLEN & SON, Allen, Md. 

C. S. KEMPTON, Longmeadow, Mass. 



186 TEE F A li M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 



STUMP PULLERS. 

ZIMMEEMAN STEEL CO., Lone Tree, la. 
HERCULES MFG. CO., Centerville, la. 
MILNE MFG. CO., Monmouth, IJl. 
W. J. FITZPATEICK, Seattle, Wash. 

TANKS. 
A. J. CORCORAN, Inc., 192 Broadway, New York. 

TANK HEATERS. 
NELSON MFG. CO., Deerfield, Wis. 

TAJSTNERS. 

LOGANSPORT ROPE & TANNERY CO., Logansport, Ind. 
THE PELOQUIN FUR TANNING CO., Rochester, N. Y. 
SYLVANIA TANNING CO., Sylvania, O. 
NATIONAL TANNING CO., Des Moines, la. 

TELEPHONES. 

STROMBERG CARLSON TEL. MFG. CO., Rochester, N. Y. 

TENTS AND CANVAS HOUSES. 

CLOSE-TO-NATURE CO., 374 Front St., Colfax, Iowa. 
HETTRICK BROS. CO., Toledo, Ohio. 

THRESHING MACHINES. 

BUFFALO PITTS CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER CO., Chicago, 111. 
A. B. FARQUAHR CO., Chicago, 111. 

TREE BANDS. 

THE O. & W. THUM CO., Grand Rapids. Mich. 

TURKEYS. 

VALLEY VIEW POULTRY FARM, Belleville, Pa. 

S. DURIGG & SON, Armstrongs Mills, Ohio. 

MISS JOSEPHINE CARPENTER, Grouvenir, N. Y. 

H. J. VAN DYKE, Gettysburg, Pa. 

H. D. WITHROW, Dublin, Va. 

H. W. ANDE,RSON, Stewartstown, Pa. 

W. L. BURNETT, Montgomery, N. Y. 

VACUUM CLEANERS. 

ANCHOR MFG. CO., Dayton, O. 

DUNTLEY MFG. CO., 650 Main St.. Buffalo, N. Y. 

VARNISH. 

CENTURY VARNISH CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
PRATT & LAMBERT, INC., Buffalo, N. Y. 

WAGONS. 

ELECTRIC WHEEL CO., Quincy, 111. 

STUDEBAKER, South Bend, Ind. 

HAVANA METAL WHEEL CO.. Havana, 111. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 187 

WAGON SPRINGS. 
HARVEY SPRING CO., Racine, Wis. 

WASHING MACHINES, POWER. 

LEADER IRON WORKS, Owego, N. Y. 

KALAMAZOO MFG. CO., Kalamazoo, Mich. 

THE MEADOWS MEG. CO., Pontiac, 111. (Electric). 

WESTERN ELECTRIC CO., 423 West St., New York (Electric). 

DODGE & ZUILL, Syracuse, N. Y. 

WATER SYSTEMS. 

MILWAUKEE AIR POWER CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 

FAIRBANKS, MORSE & CO., New York City. 

LEADER IRON WORKS, Owego, N. Y. 

MISSOURI WATER & STEAM SUPPLY 00.. St. Joseph, Mo. 

GOULDS MFG. CO., Seneca Falls, N. Y. 

NORTH AMERICAN CONSTRUCTION CO., Bay City, Mich. 

KEWANEE WATER SUPPLY CO., Kewanee, 111. 

POWER SPECIALTY CO., Trinity Bldg., New York. 

WATER TOWERS. 

THE BALTIMORE CO.. Baltimore, Mel. 

WATER WHEELS. 

THE FITZ WATER WHEEL CO., Hanover, Pa. 

WELL DRILLING MACHINERY. 

WILLIAMS BROS., Ithaca. N. Y. 

LOOMIS MFG. CO., Tiffin, O. 

KEYSTONE WATER DRILL CO., Beaver Falls, Pa. 

LISLE MFG. CO., Clarinda, la. 

GUSPEACH FOUNDRY & MACHINERY CO., La Mars, la. 

WHITE LEAD. 

NATIONAL LEAD CO., New York Citv. 

ACME WHITE LEAD & COLOR WORKS. Detroit, Mich. 

WIND MILLS. 

AREOMOTOR CO., Chicago, 111. 

MISSOURI WATER & STEAM SUPPLY CO., St. Joseph, Mo. 

STOVER MFG. CO., Freeport, 111. 

WIRE FENCING. 

KITSELMAN BROS., Muncie, Ind. 
UP-TO-DATE MFG. CO., Terre Haute, Ind. 
INTERLOCKING FENCE CO.. Morton, 111. 
COILED SPRING FENCE CO., Winchester, Ind. 
THE BROWN FENCE & WIRE CO., Cleveland, O. 
WARD FENCE CO., Decatur, 111. 
PEERLESS WIRE FENCE CO., Adrian, Mich. 
AMERICAN STEEL & WIRE CO., Chicas^o, 111. 
THE BOND STEEL POST CO., Adrian, Mich. 
CYCLONE FENCE CO., Waukegan. HI. 
THE MASON FENCE CO., Leesburg, O. 



188 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 



GLOSSARY. 

Acid — A sour substance that will turn blue litmus paper red. 

Alkali — A caustic substance that will neutralize acids and turn 
red litmus paper blue ; as lye. 

Ammonia — A gaseous nitrogen compound which escapes when 
substances containing it decay. 

Available Plant Food — Substances that can be used as food by 
plants. 

Bacteria — Minute vegetable organisms found in the soil and else- 
where. 

Balanced Ration — A food containing the proper proportions of 
protein, carbohydrates and fat. 

Biennial — A plant that lives two years and then dies. 

Blight — A diseased condition of plants often due to bacteria. 

Bordeaux Mixture — A water solution of lime and eopper sul- 
phate used to destroy fungi. 

Bud — An undeveloped branch. 

Calcium — An element, the chief constituent of lime. 

Calcium Carbonate — Native limestone. 

Carbohydrates — Foods containing carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. 
The last two in the proportion to form water; as sugars and starch. 

Carbonic Acid Gas — A gas composed of carbon and oxygen. It 
is breathed out by animals and breathed in by plants. 

Carbon — An element; charcoal is nearly pure carbon. 

CatcJi Crop — A crop planted late in the season to take the place 
of some other crop that is a failure, or when the farmer finds that he 
will not have enough fodder for his stock. Millet is one of the principal 
catch crops. 

Compost — A rotting mixture of different fertilizing materials. 

Concentrates — Rich feeding materials; as grains and meals. 

Cover Crop — A crop sown to furnish a mulch or green manure; 
as buckwheat in an orchard, or rye sown in the fall to plow under in 
the spring. 

Cocoon — A case made by an insect in which to pass the pupa 
state. 

Curculio — A kind of beetle or wee\al. 

Dormant — Not growing; as trees in winter. 

Element — One of the elementary substances which make up the 
earth's crust. 

Ensilage — The feed that is preserved in a silo. 

Evaporate — Changing to a vapor and passing off in the air. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 189 

FcrmentaMon — The cliange produced by yeast. 

Fertile — Being fruitful ; yielding good crops. 

Formalin — A forty per cent solution of formaldehyde. 

Fungicide- — A substance that will kill or check the growth of fungi. 

Fimgus {plural fungi) — A fiowerless plant lacking the green 
color. They are often microscopic and cause the moulds and blights. 

Germs — Microscopic organisms which cause disease, fermentation, 
decay, etc. 

Germinate — To sprout. 

Gestation- — Period of carrying the unborn young. 

Girdle— To cut a groove around the trunk or limb of a tree. 

Gluten — A vegetable form of protein found in cereals. 

Grade Cattle — A cross between a pure-bred animal and one of 
the common or mixed breed. 

Heredity — The resemblance of oifspring to parent. 

Hibernating — To pass the winter in a dormant, inactive state. 

Humus — Decaying vegetable or animal matter. 

Hybrid — The result of breeding two different kinds of plants or 
animals together. 

Hydrogen — One of the elements; found in water and in all living 
thing.s. 

Liicuhaie — To hatch by any means. 

Inoculate — To supply bacteria. 

Insecticide — A substance to destroy insects. 

Kainit — A salt containing potash salt, rained in Stassfurt, Ger- 
many. 

Kerosene Emulsion — A spraying solution consisting of kerosene 
oil, soap and water. 

Lactic Acid — The acid formed when milk sours. 

Larva — Young insects in the grub stage. 

Legumes — Plants belonging to the clover family ; as alfalfa, clover, 
peas, soy beans, etc. 

Loam — Soil containing considerable organic matter. 

Mildew — A cobweblike growth of fungi on plants or decaying 
matter. 

Mulch — A light covering of leaves, straw, fine dust, or other sub- 
stances. 

Nitrate — A salt containing nitrogen ; all nitrates are soluble. 

Nitrogen — An element; it forms nearly four-fifths of the air; is 
essential to plant and animal life. 

Nodules — Small bunches or masses formed by bacteria. 

Nutrient — A food substance. 



190 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 

Organic Matter — Substance produced by life either animal or 
vegetable. 

Osmosis — The interchange of gases or liquids through thin ani- 
mal membranes. 

Oxidation — Combining with oxygen. 

Oxygen — A gaseous element present in the air and necessary to 
sustain life. 

Perennials — Plants living from year to year ; as trees. 

Pliosphonc Acid — A phosphorus compound found in bones and 
in some rocks. 

Potash — A potassium compound necessary for plant growth. 

Propagate — To increase in numbers. 

Protein — Food substances that contain nitrogen. 

Pure Bred — Animals with marked characteristics bred for many 
generations without introducing other blood. 

Ration — The daily allowance of food for an animal. 

Rotation of Crops — A succession of different crops on the same 
field. 

Roughage — Coarse feed ; such as hay, straw, or cornstalks. 

Scion — A shoot, sprout, or branch used in grafting upon another 
plant. 

Seed Bed — The earth in which the seed is sown. 

Silage — Food preserved in a silo. 

Sire — Father. 

Smut — A fungus disease of plants causing a powdery mass. 

Spores — The microscopic seeds of fungus plants ; they differ from 
true seeds in having no embryo. 

Sport or Mutation — An unusual fruit or plant ; as, a white squash 
on a Hubbard vine. They are one of the sources of new varieties. 

Sterilize — To kill all germs. 

Stover — Cornstalks with the ears taken off. 

Tillage — Preparing the land for crops. 

Transplant — To move plants from one soil to another. 

Ventilate — To supply fresh air. 



USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 191 



INDEX. 

Page. 

Advantages and Disadvantages of Farm Life 7 

Alfalfa 29 

Bees and Bee-Keeping 59 

Buckwheat 45 

Bujdng a Farm 9 

Calves Ill 

Cement and Concrete 80 

Commission Merchants 164 

Corn 39 

Cornell Poultry Rations 91 

Cow Troubles and Their Kemedies 103 

Currants 53 

Drainage 14 

Farmers ' Bulletins 133 

Feeding Dairy Cattle 115 

Fertilizers 17 

Flowers 57 

Forestry 76 

Fungicides and Insecticides 148 

General ' ' Don 'ts ' ' for Farmers 130 

Glossary 188 

Government Labor Bureaus 128 

Grain Eations for Milk Production 123 

Hay Crop, The 45 

How to Remove Stains 153 

Identification of Fruit 137 

Improving the Farm Without Commercial Fertilizers or Barnyard Manure 23 

Lime 25 

Live Stock Registry Associations 137 

Manures 21 

Maple Sugar Making 87 

Market Gardening 54 

Method for Balancing a Ration for Dairy Cows 117 

Milk lOi) 

Oats 43 

Orchard, The 65 

Pasture, The 74 

Pertinent Questions for Farmers' Wives 83 

Potatoes 33 

Poultry Troubles and Their Remedies 96 

Profitable Dairying 100 

Profitable Hog Raising 125 

Profitable Poultry Raising 89 

Raspberries 51 

Silos and Silage 120 

State Experiment Stations 132 

Strawberry Culture 47 

Tables, I-X 139 

Tested Recipes 154 

Useful Formulas 151 

Weeds 70 

Wheat 44 

Where to Buy 168 

Where to Go for Advice 132 



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